Rhylsailer99
Active member
- Joined
- 19 Jun 2020
- Messages
- 617
would this be ok to use as its not for below the waterline but for backing plates. I'm unsure what happens to sikaflex once its after its sell by date.
+1 to what has been said already. Also, in my experience, if you wrap the whole cartridge in aluminium foil and keep it in a fridge it will stay useable for years after the use-by date.would this be ok to use as its not for below the waterline but for backing plates. I'm unsure what happens to sikaflex once its after its sell by date.
Once it can't be pressed from the nozzel, I then puncture the tube with a screwdriver nearest to the nozzel where not set and use, tape it over and continue that way. You get many times before it cures fully to the bottom.
Why the alumninium foil?+1 to what has been said already. Also, in my experience, if you wrap the whole cartridge in aluminium foil and keep it in a fridge it will stay useable for years after the use-by date.
www.solocoastalsailing.co.uk
Because if the Sikaflex is curing by vapour release then aluminium is a good barrier whereas most vapous will pass slowly through the plastic tube. Well, that's the theory!Why the alumninium foil?
So it won't be spotted by other users of the freezer?Why the alumninium foil?
I use a variation on that. I drill with a 9mm bit up the exit hole (!) until drill bit strikes uncured stuff and use as per normal with the gun. Don’t use one of your posh Dormer bits…Once it can't be pressed from the nozzel, I then puncture the tube with a screwdriver nearest to the nozzel where not set and use, tape it over and continue that way. You get many times before it cures fully to the bottom.
I'd have said if there are any vapours in your deep freeze sufficiently active to permeate a Sika tube and set its contents off - its time for a new freezer.Because if the Sikaflex is curing by vapour release then aluminium is a good barrier whereas most vapous will pass slowly through the plastic tube. Well, that's the theory!
But I have been keeping mine in the fridge, not freezer, but now I have learnt a freezer works well and then, of course, no need for the aluminium foil.I'd have said if there are any vapours in your deep freeze sufficiently active to permeate a Sika tube and set its contents off - its time for a new freezer.
Coincidentally I used today a tube of Sika 291, Black, manufacturing date of 04/21 (much older than yours.) and a use by of 12 months. You might ask - but we bought it heavily discounted because it had passed its use by date. We are toward the end of the tube and I also used it a couple of weeks ago - perfectly serviceable.
We keep ours in the deep freeze, no aluminium foil, but we take the plastic nozzle off and 'seal' with cling fit and put back the nozzle.
My wife is working on gaining certification as an example of Scots Parsimony - and encourages storage of Sika in the deep freeze.
Jonathan
It is not really about how you store it, but what you do to store it. Once moisture has activated a surface it starts a chain reaction through the fluid causing the polymer chains to cross link and harden of, eventually through the whole cartridge. After you've finished using it squeeze out a little and wipe it off to get a fresh surface. Then cover it immediately. If you can do this in a dry environment all the better. Cold slows down the reaction. Freezing is good.How about wrapping the cartridge in duct tape for storage on board?
Would that be impermeable enough?
Obviously you would have to write on it with a marker pen so you know what's inside.
Are you saying that wrapping the tube in foil, plastic, duct tape, or what have you, is a waste of time because the curing process starts through the nozzle, and not through the tube wall?It is not really about how you store it, but what you do to store it. Once moisture has activated a surface it starts a chain reaction through the fluid causing the polymer chains to cross link and harden of, eventually through the whole cartridge. After you've finished using it squeeze out a little and wipe it off to get a fresh surface. Then cover it immediately. If you can do this in a dry environment all the better. Cold slows down the reaction. Freezing is good.
Yes. If the hole in the nozzle is small enough I squeeze a little out and then shove a stainless steel masonary nail in. It should be a good interferance fit and as long a possible. Although once the piston has been disturbed you might get moisture in there.Are you saying that wrapping the tube in foil, plastic, duct tape, or what have you, is a waste of time because the curing process starts through the nozzle, and not through the tube wall?
I don't push the mail in but with all adhesives and sealants I squeeze a little out of the nozzle and then screw the cap on. This usually preserves it for a while.Yes. If the hole in the nozzle is small enough I squeeze a little out and then shove a stainless steel masonary nail in. It should be a good interferance fit and as long a possible. Although once the piston has been disturbed you might get moisture in there.
I did some work with Dow to try and find a replacement of organo-tin, which is nasty stuff. They invented the chemistry. For those that might be interested (yawn) its a four stage dynamic reaction and the chemists have no idea how it works!!