(sigh)-rubbing strakes coming off-anyone know how?!....

[yourmomm]

thanks to all who suggested this in response to replacing a section of rotten gunwhale on vagabond heart. on checking today-it seems it IS necessary to remove both upper and lower strakes on the gunwhale (one just below deck level looks like 4inchesx0.5inch iroko scarfed into only 2 sections for the entire 33 foot length!) and the upper strake approximately 5-8 inches above the deck, made up from four mahogany 0.5x0.5inch strips glued and screwed into a square configuration, with the gunwhale entering a recess along the bottom. each strip on this upper strake is scarfed approximately 3 times in the 33foot length, all at differing points for strength, so the scarfs of no two strips align with each other. with so few scarfs in a relatively long length, it need not be said that there is quite a lot of curvature within each section between the scarfs.

my question is this: anyone have any ideas hust how to get the b*&!#ding things off without wrecking them?!! they are glued and screwed-the screws are no problem once i get the plugs out, but that still leaves the nightmare of the glue-any techniques for removing radically curved and glued wood without damaging either surface greatly appreciated!

many thanks!

 

[alan006]

If the rubbing strakes were fitted some time ago you may be lucky as the older glues are poor compared to modern glues/epoxy. As far as I know all you can do is remove the screws and gently prise them off with a sharp chiesel. Perhaps someone knows a better way.....good luck.

 

[Adamastor]

I had to do something similar, removing a cockpit rail, but on a micro-scale compared to you! Dunno what glue it was- 1960's vintage- possibly epoxy? I ended up with a heat-gun, giving it some warm lovin' just to get the wood nice and evenly hot- say 70-90 degrees C- and then keeping it warm so the whole lot was warmed through. It was hell on the varnish, but that had to die anyway! Eventually, the whole plank gave up the firm hold it had on its neighbour when I applied some more affection, this time with a rubber mallet. Not in a violent way- just enough to make the glue a little uncomfortable! Seriously, the glue seemed to soften or plasticise, and persistent beating and coaxing with a rubber mallet made the stuff give way. I did have to re-varnish the coaming from whence I took the offending wood, but no lasting damage was done. The still-hot wood also kept the bedding/sealant goop soft enough that it came off with a lick of the ole' scraper.

 

[PatrickB02]

Just a thought…

In furniture restoration, if you need to take apart a joint, you use steam to soften the glue. The technique is to drill a hole into the joint (if there isn’t already on you can use) and then insert a flexible pipe of suitable diameter, which is connected to your kettle or whatever. After a few minutes, the steam softens the glue and the joint will pull apart. You might be able to adapt this to your purpose, possibly using the screw holes for the steam?

 

[Gordonmc]

The rubbing strakes on my 30 foot Hillyard are mahogany, scarfed in three sections per side. I have been progressively replacing them and have just the port side aft to do.
I didn't have any problem once the plugs and screws were out as the strakes were bedded in on white lead putty on top of the canvas deck-covering which folded over the devil.
Rubbing strakes are supposed to be sacrificial so hopefully the builder of your boat didn't use a "permanent" glue, even if the epoxy seems to have been used liberally elsewhere.

 

[oakum]

The tool to use is a Fein with a very thin blade that vibrates and will seperate glued wood. Don't know if they can be hired but a worthwhile addition to any DIYer's toolchest.