Shower grating

Graham_Wright

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I like the look of the teak gratings but not the price that goes with them as mine is not a regular shape and will be a special. I could do the interlocked cross pieces myself but the surround would look far from professional.

What have others done?

I am inclined towards an HDPE slab perforated with round (easy) or square (more difficult) holes.

My machining centre will make light work of the profiling and look good.
 

Tranona

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The Howells kits are also worth looking at. Cheaper than a custom one and you can change the shape from the standard rectangle before you assemble. I have made 3 of them, one as a shower grate and they look just as good as custom ones.
 
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The recycled stuff may work very well in the small sections required for a grating. But I'm afraid that for larger sections (made into picnic chairs and tables for parks, for instance), recycled plastic bags just don't cut the mustard -- they sag and bag and look altogether horrible.

I'd try an unimportant trial bit first, give it a couple of years weathering, and then see what happens.

Mike
 

BarryH

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A router is your friend. I practiced on cheapo pine. Basically cut your battens to length. Clamp them together side by side. Work out the spacing (hint, width of your battens) then route groves the same width and half the depth of the battens. Unclamp the assemble to see they fit, then glue together. Thats the basic grid, you can the cut to shape and work out how to finish the edges yourself. I made a circular grating out of an old teak table top. It looks very good, you cant beat a routher for making you look like a proper carpenter!
 

Graham_Wright

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Facing up to the reality that I will have to make my own, I did a comparison between Howells and Robbins prices.

I have always used Robbins as they are relatively nearby.

As an example 25 X 25 teak sawn (i.e. not planed) Robbins £8.92 per metre
25 X 25 (~ 22 X 22 after planing) £5.16 per metre.

Thought provoking!

As son has a lot of stripped out teak deck planking, I guess that is the way to go.
 

Andy M C

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This may be another cheap option, depending on how much support is provided by the underlying hull:-
rubber drainage mat.JPG

Rubber safety/drainage mat for grassed play areas. Available on flebay in two thicknesses (16mm and 22mm) and around £20 for a 1.5m x 1m sheet.
I'm using it to line the base of my anchor locker.
 

Graham_Wright

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This may be another cheap option, depending on how much support is provided by the underlying hull:-
View attachment 40610

Rubber safety/drainage mat for grassed play areas. Available on flebay in two thicknesses (16mm and 22mm) and around £20 for a 1.5m x 1m sheet.
I'm using it to line the base of my anchor locker.

Mine has to be self supporting but I like the idea for the anchor locker.
 

Tranona

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Facing up to the reality that I will have to make my own, I did a comparison between Howells and Robbins prices.

I have always used Robbins as they are relatively nearby.

As an example 25 X 25 teak sawn (i.e. not planed) Robbins £8.92 per metre
25 X 25 (~ 22 X 22 after planing) £5.16 per metre.

Thought provoking!

As son has a lot of stripped out teak deck planking, I guess that is the way to go.

You can also buy the castle mouldings and frame mouldings for little more than the plain sections to make your own shapes. Obviously if you have a supply of good teak already that is a good start, but don't underestimate the amount of work required to machine it up correctly and do the assembly. The beauty of the ready made kits or sections is that it is self aligning when you assemble it. The only tricky bit is cutting the mitres for any corners that are not right angles.
 

Graham_Wright

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You can also buy the castle mouldings and frame mouldings for little more than the plain sections to make your own shapes. Obviously if you have a supply of good teak already that is a good start, but don't underestimate the amount of work required to machine it up correctly and do the assembly. The beauty of the ready made kits or sections is that it is self aligning when you assemble it. The only tricky bit is cutting the mitres for any corners that are not right angles.

I can route the castle mouldings on one of my machining centres but it does make a mess!

I also have a customer with a CNC router and he owes me money!
 

Tranona

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I can route the castle mouldings on one of my machining centres but it does make a mess!

I also have a customer with a CNC router and he owes me money!

Yes, I have watched Mr Howells do it. Pity teak dust is no good for smoking salmon!

If you are going to make your own you need to decide if you are going to use single castle and plain cross battens which is what the kits are or double castle which is stronger but a lot more work. I have a kit type in my shower and it is fine, but it is straight onto the floor rather than suspended.
 

sealegsjim

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I recently made this shower grating out of sapele which I oiled. It looks pretty good and was cheap to make. I didn't use a router to cut the castellations but used a sliding mitre saw set to the right depth.image.jpg
 

timmygobang

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I was quoted £370 - 400 for a shower grating and £480 for the cockpit by KJ Howells. It's a bit beyond my budget at the moment. The previous owner made the shower grating out of white pvc plastic, the same stuff that my washboards are made out of. The disadvantage is that they show up dirt like you wouldn't believe!!
 
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