Should I run the engine when using the anchor winch

[KAM]

Winch 45A, alternator 80A, battery 2 X 110 Ah. When sailing out of an anchorage I tend not to run the engine. Even when fully charged the battery voltage quickly drop to around 10.8 volts when using the winch. Should I be running the engine to take some load off the battery.

 

[superheat6k]

Winch 45A, alternator 80A, battery 2 X 110 Ah. When sailing out of an anchorage I tend not to run the engine. Even when fully charged the battery voltage quickly drop to around 10.8 volts when using the winch. Should I be running the engine to take some load off the battery.

In a word - Yes

The draw is quite heavy and for a possibly prolonged period. If most of the 45amps is provided from the alternator then there will be negligible drain on the battery. This is especially the case on a sailing boat where there is not otherwise time to re-charge whilst cruising along.

Also having the engine running keeps the battery voltage up and substantially increases the power available from the windlass motor.

Run at fast idle, then shut down as soon as you have left the anchorage. Also having the engine running provides standby manoeuvrability if you meet other 'navigational' difficulties.

 

[maby]

Yes, you should. Most boats built today with a factory-fit anchor winch will have interlocks that only allow it to be powered with the engine running.

 

[Twister_Ken]

Yes, you should. Most boats built today with a factory-fit anchor winch will have interlocks that only allow it to be powered with the engine running.

Can you quote chapter and verse on that? Seems daft to me; anchored with engine failure and you wouldn't be able to lift the hook to sail off.

 

[Pinnacle]

Yes, you should. Most boats built today with a factory-fit anchor winch will have interlocks that only allow it to be powered with the engine running.

Our boat is just like that.

 

[RichardS]

Yes, you should. Most boats built today with a factory-fit anchor winch will have interlocks that only allow it to be powered with the engine running.

So is ours (just like that)

Richard

 

[Hadenough]

Yes you should to ease the load. But isn't it a bit of a dichotomy, sailing off an electric windlass raised anchor?
By the way, I'd be seriously concerned about regularly discharging my batteries to 10.8V.

 

[Mistroma]

Can you quote chapter and verse on that? Seems daft to me; anchored with engine failure and you wouldn't be able to lift the hook to sail off.

Our Jeanneau must have the engine running in order to use the windlass. It is a standard boat and I believe that they've been built that way for years. There's a link hidden behind a panel in the forecabin and that can be used to allow the windlass to run without the engine. I discovered the link a few years ago but haven't seen it documented.

 

[KAM]

No qualms about using the windlass at my age but always thought running the engine reduced the fun/challenge/commitment. The batteries are 5 years old and probably on their last legs anyway. I wonder if leisure batteries are suitable for 45 amp peaks.

 

[prv]

Yes you should to ease the load. But isn't it a bit of a dichotomy, sailing off an electric windlass raised anchor?

No - the disconnect is starting the engine in order to sail away.

I used to like the calmness of sailing off the anchor in Kindred Spirit; having the engine running "just in case" or "to power the winch" would have ruined that. Manual windlass on that boat, though.

I have recently had reason to be very glad that Ariam's electric windlass works without the engine. Obviously the OP's does if necessary, so this is not meant to be any reflection on him. I wouldn't be very keen on the interlocks some others have mentioned though.

Pete

 

[Hadenough]

Agree totally about using the windlass, why not? But just as I never cast off without being able to set sails if I need them. I never cast off without knowing that the engine will start. So even if you are sailing off the anchor, start the donkey to power the windlass, or at least make sure that it will start.

 

[Steve Clayton]

Our Jeanneau must have the engine running in order to use the windlass. It is a standard boat and I believe that they've been built that way for years. There's a link hidden behind a panel in the forecabin and that can be used to allow the windlass to run without the engine. I discovered the link a few years ago but haven't seen it documented.

Exactly where?

 

[Babylon]

Just fitted a windlass which CAN be winched manually (tediously) should I suffer engine or electrical failure, or should I choose to sail out the anchor without the engine running.

Having said that, I'd normally expect to use the engine to power the windlass and motor out the anchorage.

 

[prv]

Agree totally about using the windlass, why not? But just as I never cast off without being able to set sails if I need them. I never cast off without knowing that the engine will start. So even if you are sailing off the anchor, start the donkey to power the windlass, or at least make sure that it will start.

In case the mast falls down?

Pete

 

[Ripster]

The jeaneau we had would only run the winch with engines started. But the Bavaria we have now runs on dom bank wo engine though we don't use it without.

 

[William_H]

Winch 45A, alternator 80A, battery 2 X 110 Ah. When sailing out of an anchorage I tend not to run the engine. Even when fully charged the battery voltage quickly drop to around 10.8 volts when using the winch. Should I be running the engine to take some load off the battery.

It is not so surprising that you read a 10.8volts in the battery when using the winch. (engine not running) Most normal engine batteries will drop to around 9volts when cranking an engine. This is normal and due to the high current and the internal resistance of the battery. It does not relate to the charge state of the battery. Further it is possible that your volt meter is in the wiring down stream of the battery so also registering some of the wiring volt drop. (both pos and neg drops) Of much more concern is the battery voltage after the winching operation which should recover to a bit over 12 v for a reasonably still charged battery.
So providing you do not discharge the battery too much and can still start the engine then there should be no problems in winching without engine running. However remember that a battery is not 100% efficient at current in and current out. So if you have your engine charging when winching much of the current for the winch will come from the alternator and much less amp hours out of the battery. Wheras if you take all the winch amp hours from the battery it will take a lot more charge amp hours to recharge.
That plus the security of having the engine running will be the reason most people will start the engine first. good luck olewill

 

[sailinglegend420]

The interlock could simply be turning the ignition on - you don't even need to start the engine!

 

[sailaboutvic]

Most modern boat the windless won't work unless the engine is running , turning the ignition on only won't do the trick .
If you are really worried about not being able to start the engine to lift the anchor you could run new leads from the battery to the solenoid , we have 10 mm chain and a 20kg anchor , and even me with my bad back if need be I can slowly manage to lift the anchor , if it came to the crunch you could alway use a rope leading back to one of the winches
To answer the OP question ,YES you should always start the engine first , as it been explained the windless uses a lot of power

 

[prv]

if it came to the crunch you could alway use a rope leading back to one of the winches

You could, but it would be madness to go to such efforts because of a nannying piece of wiring. Far better to defeat the idiot-proofing interlock directly.

Pete

 

[Plevier]

It is not so surprising that you read a 10.8volts in the battery when using the winch. (engine not running) Most normal engine batteries will drop to around 9volts when cranking an engine. This is normal and due to the high current and the internal resistance of the battery. It does not relate to the charge state of the battery. Further it is possible that your volt meter is in the wiring down stream of the battery so also registering some of the wiring volt drop. (both pos and neg drops) Of much more concern is the battery voltage after the winching operation which should recover to a bit over 12 v for a reasonably still charged battery.
So providing you do not discharge the battery too much and can still start the engine then there should be no problems in winching without engine running. However remember that a battery is not 100% efficient at current in and current out. So if you have your engine charging when winching much of the current for the winch will come from the alternator and much less amp hours out of the battery. Wheras if you take all the winch amp hours from the battery it will take a lot more charge amp hours to recharge.
That plus the security of having the engine running will be the reason most people will start the engine first. good luck olewill

Agree with most of that but keep it in proportion.
45A is nothing to 220Ah of batteries in reasonable condition. They would be capable of several hundred amps. Yes you will see some volt drop under load but I can't believe your 10.8V is at the battery terminals. as William says you are probably seeing wiring drops. If that is genuinely at the terminals then the batteries are done for or at a very low state of charge.
How long do you use the windlass? Say 5 minutes? That's less than 4Ah out of the battery - peanuts. Leaves it 98% charged if it started fully charged. (However charge efficiency is so low at such high states of charge that you will eventually have to put maybe 6Ah back into the battery and you can't do it quickly.)
The good reason for running the engine is not the current but the voltage.
If the alternator produces 14/14.2V as most do now, it will (help to) offset the volt drop in the cables to the windlass, reduce motor current and maybe increase its speed a bit and give it a kinder working environment.
Low voltage DC motors don't like working hard at reduced voltage. They draw more current, produce less torque and overheat.