Shimming fuel Pump Penta 2001, guidance required.

Ceirwan

Well-Known Member
Joined
26 Jul 2007
Messages
1,157
Visit site
I've recently had the injection pump off my Penta 2001, in order to have a diesel specialist check it out to try and get to the bottom of my lack of power issues.

It turns out the pump is perfect so I'm ok to refit it. According to the workshop manual I need to fit it with 2 soft shims and 1 hard shim to match up the thickness that should be stamped on the fuel pump and the block itself.

However I'm not sure what the correct number to use is, there are quite a few on the pump, and non that I can see on the block. (Maybe I need to sand off the paint, but I'd like to narrow down the location to sand off first)

Alternatively is there an easier method to determine what shim thickness to use then the one described in the workshop manual that requres specialist tools? I really need to get it back in and working by next weekend, so any advice much appreciated, thanks!



 
Last edited:
If I could not identify and unravel the markings I would re-use the existing spacer ( hard shim ) and the original gaskets if they are undamaged. Otherwise measure the thickness of the gaskets and buy 2 new ones the same thickness ( they may not both be the same)
 
The numbers are physically stamped (i.e. not cast) by using hammered teeps. So, not part of the numbers on the pump I.D. plate. You may need to scrape away some paint. When I did my rebuild I just reused the originals as they were in good condition.
 
Thanks for the replies, I can reuse the bottom shim (thats pictured) and I can measure the diameter of the metal shim (which was damaged when removing pump) and get a replacement. The issue is the last soft shim which unfortunately was completely destroyed during removal.

I'll get in there with a wire brush on a drill and see if I can find the stamped number.
 
Well I found the pump number which was 16.

Unfortunately I can't find any number on the block at all, despite lots of scraping and sanding, does anyone have an idea of how I can work this out without getting a dealer to look at it?

Is there a standard figure for the block?
 
Unfortunately the soft shims completely disintegrated when the pump was removed.

Looking at the pump, it says 16.

There is nothing on the block. Examples given in the workshop manual are of a lower thickness than 1.6mm.

I've managed to straighten out the metal shim pretty well and I've measured it at 0.3mm. So the plan is to shim it with soft shims up to 1.6mm total and see how we go.
 
Last edited:
I had need to give my 2001 a cylinder head makeover, then when back together could not make it start. Decided to have the injector pump serviced. I did preserve the original fitted shims/gaskets and refitted same. I did however search all over the pump an block to find the 2 numbers but without any success - as I had intended to replace the gaskets (but not the shims) perchance they would change thickness when fitted for second time (i.e. gaskets become thinner through re-compression). While the engine did then start and run the character of the engine changed, tick over speed dropped (which I adjusted of course) and it has subsequently required the 'cold start' procedure even on a warm re-start (pull out stop handle etc). Cold starting has always been an challenge and is probably worse now. I have concluded that the injector timing has changed further to the pump overhaul and re-use of shims/gaskets but can't identify an easy option for getting it adjusted. Have been contemplating trial and error!!
 
I have concluded that the injector timing has changed further to the pump overhaul and re-use of shims/gaskets but can't identify an easy option for getting it adjusted. Have been contemplating trial and error!!

The workshop manual describes how to measure the engine to calculate the required shim thickness, but it really requires a special tool to do it properly. Trial and error might work, presumably starting by increasing the hard shim thickness slightly.
 
block.jpg

Here is a picture of the number stamped on the block.

Here is the calculation I used to work out what shims I needed:

You must add the number printed on the block next to the pump with the number on the pump to get the correct number of shims.

Pump 1 Block Marking = 5 (5 tenths of a millimeter)
Pump 1 Marking = 5 (5 tenths of a millimeter)

Pump 2 Block Marking = 5 (5 tenths of a millimeter)
Pump 2 Marking = 5 (5 tenths of a millimeter)

Total Shims = 1mm per pump

Order 8 x Volvo Fuel Injection Pump Soft Shims 0.25mm (Gasket 859149)
 
Be careful when re-fitting the pumps. If you don't locate the control lever on the pump correctly in the cutout on the flat control rod (visible in the picture), you will bend the rod and it will stick and make the engine run away. The rod is no longer available so you'll have to remove it and get it straightened.

I had to do the latter when an engineer from a well known firm managed to bend mine.. he initially tried to rectify it by fiddling with the timing screws which the workshop manual says you should never adjust..
 
Be careful when re-fitting the pumps. If you don't locate the control lever on the pump correctly in the cutout on the flat control rod (visible in the picture), you will bend the rod and it will stick and make the engine run away. The rod is no longer available so you'll have to remove it and get it straightened.

I had to do the latter when an engineer from a well known firm managed to bend mine.. he initially tried to rectify it by fiddling with the timing screws which the workshop manual says you should never adjust..

Indeed! 3 times I had the injector pump in and out as I wasn't convinced it was located properly...
 
The old shims on my 1GM10 measures .028. There wasn't anything in the pack that would make up a single shim of that thickness so I used the next size up. The marking on the old one was completely faded.
 
Why do Volvo Penta specify that a combination of soft and hard shims should be used on most engines?

I just got off the phone with Volvo a few hours ago.
Basically the older engines used the soft shims both as a shim and as a gasket to prevent oil leakage.
The newer engines have an o-ring design and can be shimmed purely with the hard shims.

To the guy who posted the photo, the numbers must be different depending on who built the engine on the day, because I've definitely not got one there. The number 16 on my pump seemed high, the guy on the phone from volvo agreed.

They only offer the soft shims in 0.15 and 0.25 sizes, the shim I removed from the engine was 0.3mm (the hard shim) and after some hammering I reckon its good for a re-use.

So current POA is to refit with 2x 0.25 soft shims and see how that goes, I've also ordered 2x 0.15 shims and I will progressively reduce the shimming if required.

Its not ideal, but if it gets me out for the regatta this weekend then I'll be happy.
 
Well I found the pump number which was 16.

Unfortunately I can't find any number on the block at all, despite lots of scraping and sanding, does anyone have an idea of how I can work this out without getting a dealer to look at it?

Is there a standard figure for the block?

The number is part of the engine serial number and is on an attached plate, not part of the casting
 
Top