Shetland 535 outboard

[JohnAngus]

Hi, I have just purchased a shetland 535 for £100. The boat has no wondows in it and I just wanted to know if anyone on here has made their own windows for their 535? I was thinking of 5mm perspex but I am open to ideas. I was looking at buying windows but I just cannot afford them. I was also wanting to know how well a 5hp honda (5 years old) would cope just for moving it a mile or so on a calm day? Thanks

 

[gordmac]

Simplest and cheapest way to do windows would be to bolt the perspex on with sealant in between, you can split it drilling holes in perspex though. The proper ones will be in with a seal but that is a bit of a pain to do.
I would expect the 5hp would be ok for moving it but to plane it really 50hp would be a minimum. Only thing to watch is if the 5hp engine is the correct shaft length.
There is a reasonable owners club, worth contacting.

 

[jakeroyd]

As gordmac suggests bolting them on from the outside is a good suggestion.
If you do this the best sealant to use IMHO is Sikaflex 295UV which as its designation suggests is Uv proof.
It aint cheap and it requires a pre treatment which you must use.
The only sealant that stopped my windows leaking.

 

[pvb]

Hi, I have just purchased a shetland 535 for £100. The boat has no wondows in it and I just wanted to know if anyone on here has made their own windows for their 535? I was thinking of 5mm perspex but I am open to ideas. I was looking at buying windows but I just cannot afford them. I was also wanting to know how well a 5hp honda (5 years old) would cope just for moving it a mile or so on a calm day? Thanks

The 535 had 5mm acrylic windows, I believe, fitted in rubber surrounds. You could make your own windows, but you'd need to cut them carefully. Alternatively, you can buy them ready-cut, eg from http://www.littleportboathaven.co.uk/windows and rubbers.htm

I think fitting them into rubber mouldings like the original boat would be far preferable to bolting them on.

 

[rob2]

Bolting on windows should be stronger than a rubber seal, which can burst out under pressure as with a very large wave on it - let's hope you never experience that. The only thing really is the aesthetics of nuts and bolts. Whilst the outside is neat enough, the inside will show a line of nuts all around the aperture - a rather Goth look! It would be possible to make a wooden frame on the inside and simply screw through from the outside making for a much neater finish.

The holes in the Perspex (acrylic) sheet should be larger than simple clearance tolerance as they must accomodate differential expansion of the sheet and the coachroof. It is best to also lightly chamfer the holes both sides to remove stress raisers which promote crazing. I would recommend fitting thin nylon washers under the screw heads, preferrably pan head or similar again to allow movement, and a second washer between the sheet and coachroof so as to maintain a thickness of mastic as you tighten the screws.

Rob.

 

[Lakesailor]

Or just use rubber mounting profile, like everyone else.

5hp will move it around perfectly well, but as said it won't plane. I had one with a 65hp which would plane on the sea with four on-board without any problem.