Shelf foot or Flattening reef?

[steffen]

I am about to buy a new mail sail and torn between one woth a shelf foot and one with a flattening reef. As i understand it a FR requires a separate line (like a reefing line) to operate while a SF is operated by tensioning the outhaul.

Opinions appreciated.

Since this board host about half a milliion experts (though not necc. with identical opinions-) i must be able to get a decisive advice here.

 

[Aja]

Are you going to look at loose-footed mains also?

 

[steffen]

I did but decided against it because i am not racing, just cruising and the shelf foot includes some features of the loose foot or so i was told.

 

[steve_cronin]

What\'s wrong with both?

Our last boat had both a "Shelf foot" imposed by outhaul ternsion and a flattener. It was a Hunter Horizon 30. First reefing action was to flatten by mast bend followed in more wind by the outhaul, then after temporarily easing the kicker a bit by flattener and finally as the wind piped up by putting in reef no1,2,3 then finally running for port!

Steve Cronin

 

[charles_reed]

My first main had both - the foot was only usable in >8 knots of wind (after which it caused you to lean over farther and go slower) and the flattening reef was only good for 15-21 knots.

Subsequently I've replaced my "soft" main with a fully battened one and have no shelf foot and never use the flattening reef.

The drive out of the fully battened main is about 15-20% better than out of a "soft" main, it's far easier to handle, lasts about x2 as long as a "soft" main.

So Steffen, I think you're asking the wrong question?
The best answer is have neither and have a fully battened loose-footed main - there is every reason why cruisers NEED to go faster than racers.

 

[billmacfarlane]

That's exactly the set up I've got on a fractional rig with adjustable back stay. All the lines lead back to the cockpit and you can depower the main first by tensioning the clew outhaul then by adjusting the backstay. I don't race , except in fun races with my club , but it's a sensible cruising rig and gives you something to tweak as you sail along.

 

[steffen]

Agree that yours is a very good set-up, but there's this little matter called budget and worse, the missus controlling it.
Sail are not exactly cheap here (approx. 1100 pounds) and that does not include full battens which adds another 200

 

[charles_reed]

Some people are using long battens, without the batten car, which reduces the cost dramatically.

I'd expect to pay at least that for a reasonable 26m2 main.

There is a lot of work in your average mainsail, thats why it's worth paying a 15-20% premium for a main which has double the useful working life.

 

[Aja]

I'm not much into racing either, but ordered a loose-footed main for last season. Very pleased with it. Before I purchased entered 'loose footed mainsails' into Google and was surprised at the amount of web pages.

I ordered mine wit a full top batten and cannot complain about sail shape or ease of use.

Donald

 

[gunnarsilins]

Long battens w/o cars...

Yes, the cars will add on the cost.
But, at least with a bigger sailit will be very heavy to hoist, and it will not drop down without assistance.
I got cars on my main (35 sqm) and it´s still heavy and need to be winched the last 1/3 when hoisting and needs to be pulled when dropped.
But my mizzen, 10 sqm only works perfectly woithout cars