Sheets and halyards: rule of thumb?

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cambscot

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Is there a 'rule of thumb' that can be applied to the selection of the appropriate weight of rope for use in sheets and halyards, based on a yacht's length and/or sail are?

I know the rigging and lines on my boat (Mirage 28) is significantly overspecced, and as I'm considering replacing much of it as it's been on land for 2 years, I was wondering how much 'lighter' I can go.

Any pointers as to what to go for, also with regards to brands?

tia

a
 
Two things to consider - one is the size of the sheaves, etc, though which the halyards will pass - they will have optimum rope sizes, or at least ranges. The other is the means with which you will tension the sheet or halyard - if by hand, what size rope is comfortable, bearing in mind the load, and if by winch, is there a most suitable rope size or range? With the breaking strain of modern ropes, I doubt that strength will come into it much.
 
Just remember if you go for modern ropes the strength can be achieved with a thin rope which then slips through clutches - my 8mm spectra genoa halyard is extremely strong and barely stretches compared with its polyester predecessor but it slips through the 8-12mm rated clutches when I do not need it to.
 
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Two things to consider ...

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Three, surely? You don't want stretchy halyards, so go for a modern fibre.


[/ QUOTE ]Well, yes - I was only getting the ball rolling...
 
spend the cash and go for spectra/dyneema for halyards.
Light, don't absorb water & don't "creep"
pre stretch polyester: you wind up the tension, the halyard then creeps (extends very slightly) and then you wind it up again ... and then you wonder why it breaks. Ok for reefing lines etc.
Wire-rope splices: hellish
Get halyards a little longer than needed so that if there is any chafe at the mast head, you can cut it short and still use the rest of the halyard.
A decent rigger will also make a neat little loop at the end making it easy to tie on a mouse line to allow you to pull the halyard out for winter storage.
 
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Is there a 'rule of thumb' that can be applied to the selection of the appropriate weight of rope for use in sheets and halyards, based on a yacht's length and/or sail are?

I know the rigging and lines on my boat (Mirage 28) is significantly overspecced, and as I'm considering replacing much of it as it's been on land for 2 years, I was wondering how much 'lighter' I can go.

Any pointers as to what to go for, also with regards to brands?

tia

a

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All yachts lines are normally overspecced for the job.If you used lines more suited in terms of breaking strain, they would be very uncomfortable to handle.
Hubby and I actually went UP one size on sheets for this reason, luckily the winches and cars were more than abale to handle this. The difference in grip, winch and hand, was tremendous for a small rope increase.
Why would you go down in size if what is there works well ? Plus because boat has been on land for 2 years why would this create a problem for your ropes ? Does the sun and air change between land and sea apart from salt laden moisture ?
 
Bearing in mind the cost of dyneema or spectra halyards has anyone tried splicing bog standard polyester at the cockpit end? Only it seems to me that a lot of the investment sits unused in the bottom of the cockpit. Presumably it would save around a third of the cost.
 
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because boat has been on land for 2 years why would this create a problem for your ropes ? Does the sun and air change between land and sea apart from salt laden moisture ?

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It's not so much that it's been on land for 2 years, more that it's not been touched, nor moved for 2 years. The ropes have developed some interesting "shapes" where they've been stuck in the one position around pulleys and on cleats, in all weathers for so long.

If nothing else, now that it's mine, having only recently taken it over, I'm not sure just how old the ropes and the like are.

Thanks for the comments..

a
 
Suggest you take them all off, put them in a pillow case and wash them in the machine with soap (not detergent) and low temperature. You will be amazed how well they will come out. Then check them over for chafe and any other signs of wear such as abrasion of the outer sheath. You may find you don't need to replace all of them, but if you are worried take them to a rigger for advice.
 
What a good idea, thanks. I'm basing rope use on my experience in rock climbing, where, if in doubt, you replace it.

If a wash is all I need to breathe some life back into them, then I might do that. For this season at least. I've got enough expenditure this year as it is. Needing a new outboard for starters.

a
 
I suggest that you use plastic cable ties instead of a pillow case. A previous forumite passed this tip on to hubby and it worked far better.
Coil the ropes and then use cable ties at 3 - 4 places round the coiled rope. Do not cut the extra cable tie of as it's then jagged. Make sure they are good and tight.
Wash at 30 - 40C using only a small amount of soap based wash powder.
Doing it this way saves the shredded pillow case and also keeps the rope reasonably untangled.
Two things to look for in old rope :

a) Frayed, abraded, cut outer sheath or fibres in laid rope,
b) Dusty, crumbling, interior indicating end of life.

It is actually dust, salt and any hard abrasive sand etc. that get's into rope that often kills it quicker than UV or wet. Your observation of kinked, marked rope is common when left in one position for length of time.
 
Good point about the ends of cut cable ties being sharp, but in circumstances where you do need to cut them (tying in cables for example !) then a few seconds of heating the cut end with a match or lighter rounds off the sharp edges nicely.
 
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