Servicing a Honda BF2 outboard

[Miker]

I'm thinking of doing the annual service myself. The owner's manual says that a workshop manual and special tools are required. I have yet to get the manual. Can anyone advise what the special tools are and how much they are likely to cost?
Also, the owner's manual says that the engine should be thoroughly flushed after eah use. This puzzles me as the engine is air cooled. I must confess that I haven't done it as I left the engine in the boat locker after using it.

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[Robin]

I believe the exhaust is water cooled though the head is aircooled, odd really. We had a problem with old fuel in ours (rarely used, just sits patiently on the transom) and we now add 'fuel conditioner' to the fuel which apparently prevents it gumming up the jets. It is very difficult to run the carb dry!

Servicing ours by the dealer cost £90 which is crazy, apart from adding fuel conditioner I will now treat it as 'disposable' since 4 services would buy a new engine (or 3 if you trade in the old).

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[alan]

I've always done it myself. Oil change for the sump, oil change for the gears, clean/change the spark plug. At lay-up (in garage) I put a few drops of oil into the cylinder via the spark plug hole and turn the engine over a few times and also drain the fuel tank and carburettor. At start of season I grease all the points indicated in the users manual. All this is described in the owners manual and I have not found a need for a workshop manual nor special tools.

......... but maybe I' m not doing the full job?? However it seems enough to me and as the earlier reply said 3 profeesional services will buy you a new motor!!!

Alan.
Nettuno, Italy.

<hr width=100% size=1>Alan Cloke

 

[Miker]

Thanks. I had it serviced last year as it was still under guarantee. It cost around £65. BTW what is "fuel conditioner" and who sells it?

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[Robin]

Better than Poole Marine Services then! I bought the fuel conditioner from them and I think it was a standard extra for Yamaha or Mercury, you add a small amount per gallon and it prevents the fuel from forming a gummy deposit if it is left unused for ages. Our engine is only used a few days per year on our main cruise, otherwise we row ashore, we are marina based at home. The Honda uses so little fuel it takes ages to run the carb dry after use (I used to do that with our previous Mariner 2) and I made the mistake of leaving old fuel in the tank over the winter. When I went to use the engine it started straight away but 'died' when the throttle was opened above 50%. I believe the main jet was blocked but to get at it entails removing almost the whole of the engine ancillaries to get the carb off, it cannot be done in situ. In the event PMS said it was OK after just a service and new plug, though as yet I have still to prove it myself and I still have my doubts despite their assurance it was running OK in their test tank.

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[Mudplugger]

Welcome Back Robin... Missed your pragmatic posts!.. Regards Tony W.

<hr width=100% size=1>Tony W.

 

[penfold]

I would suggest that you go back to the simple 'run the carb dry' method to keep your outboard healthy; as you only use the engine for one holiday a year, you need only run it dry before storage rather than every time. Even in hot weather a carb bowl will take at least a week to evaporate, so there's no need to bother while the thing is in regular use.

cheers,
david

<hr width=100% size=1>OMG, Schrodinger's cat is dead!

 

[z00dles]

I have a 2000 5hp Honda I just got (like new). I took it out for the first time last weekend and, although it started and idled great, it wouldn't seem to throttle very high - it feels like it is only throttling up half way. Could it be a gummed up carb or in need of adjustment?

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