Service Sterndrives

sfh

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I here a lot about the cost of servicing sterndrives, for example in July's MBM there is a head to head of a Sealine and a Sunseeker, it mentions to "chalking up sterndrive servicing costs"

touch wood, I am somewhat puzzled, OK the anodes are a little more expensive, but my Bravo Two's have a level bottle in the engine bay (not even an external level plug) when the boat comes out of the water if the gatters are in good condition then thats that service over.

In short,what are the high servicing costs?

Is there something that i should be doing, that will cost me lots?

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I think you covered it in your post "coming out of the water". OK if you are low hours and out once a year then you lose this but if you are chalking up the hours and have to get a lift just to service the drive then it starts getting costly. The lift out costs in our marina bug me more than anything else on their pricelist, just can't see the justification



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from memory (so there may be bits missing!)
prop off and grease shaft then refit
drain gearcasing oil and refill (close off remote resevoir for this)
grease gimble bearing (can be done using nipples)
grease main shaft - can be done using nipples but recommended to drop leg off, clean and redo as you can check for wear and alignment esp on BIII with diesels
anodes (you have done)
antifouling
all in addition to the normal check general condition and nuts/bolts gaiter etc

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With the exception of the gaiter, this all applies to shafts as well, think the so called increased servicing costs really only apply to neglected old drives, they just don't take neglect as well.

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Ah but then we run Mercruisers and don't have to replace the gaiters each season. Nor do I drain the oil to check for water ingress relying on the header tank level to indicate leakage.

Geoff

ps Bought anodes mail order from Steel Developments for about half normal price.



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knew I had missed at least one thing - thanks Mike!

re Mercruisers etc this applies equally to other engines (mines Yanmar) but I change the oil cos it's cheap and to have fresh oil in the gearbox not to check for water ingress. The later is done by letting out as small amount of oil when the anodes are changed every 6 months - and the resevoir then topped up.
Looking at some of the US boat sites the greasing of the splines on the main shaft seems to be one of the most important and most often neglected jobs with diesel or larger petrol engines.

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Yes thats the Alpha series

I had one for four years, thought I ought to get it serviced and was amazed at the ruggedness and perfect condition of the impellor and gaiter. I read on US websites that the gaiter is good for some six years. Mine looked like new.
(After the expensive service the leg leaked and had to be redone)

As to leg oil changes, I asked on this site and American ones "Why does it need changing?" and received no convincing reply.

If the oil cannot get dirty, doesn't wear out and cannot suffer water ingression because of the pressurised supply from the header tank, then how is new oil better than that already in the leg ? If you know then please put me right.

I am reminded of the advice allegedly given by a car manufacturer a generation ago that if you change the gearbox oil you are more likely to introduce grit into the box than do any good.

Obviously levels are important, but with a header tank and an alarm this is taken care of.

The above isn't intended to be advice, just my thoughts as a "don't fix it if it isn't broke" type.

Geoff


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I was under the impression that because the volume of oil in the gearbox was kept to a minimum to avoid volume and therefore drag the oil could 'wear out' more than in an automotive differential or gearbox.
absolutely agree the fundamental difference with engine oil where it's the contaminents that cause the damage.
maybe a new thread entitled 'gearbox oil - shaft or leg' might illict expert advice

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