Seized outboard clamp

[seanfoster]

For some reason the clamps on my outboard are seized solid. I'm a bit confused why as they moved smoothly last year and have not even been used in a salt environment.

Other than WD40 (which has done nothing so far) are there any other ways to free them up?

 

[AIDY]

are you turning the thread the right way

you could try a bit of penetrating oil or heat from a hairdryer ?? or some more leverage maybe a mole grips to free them up before lubricating the thread..

 

[Cloven]

Plus Gas is far better than WD40. Get on as much as you can and leave at least overnight before trying to shift. Than as AIDY says, bit of heat might help. Probably there has been a bit of corrosion between the screw clamps and the housing.

 

[Dan the man]

Im assuming the bracket and clamp are metal? If so, get a gas torch on it. I have had to do mine before. it needs to be quite hot. that will get it free then brush off any corrosion and then grease it and keep it greased.
what engine is it?

 

[VicS]

As suggested use a decent penetrating oil such as Plus Gas rather than a water displacing fluid such as WD 40

Heat .. boiling water... more heat... hot air gun.. even more heat ... propane/butane torch but cautiously because the bracket, and possibly the screws, is only an aluminium alloy

Hold a heavy object eg club hammer one side of the bracket and hit the other with a decent sized hammer, work around it.

Work the screw both ways when you get it moving.

In future grease the threads more liberally esp when servicing at the end of the season.

 

[seanfoster]

Thanks everyone, I'll give it a try.

Where can i get Plus Gas from? I've doen a quick search but can only find mail order suppliers.

The outboard is a Yamaha 8A thinks its an alloy casing with what looks like a S/S bolt.

 

[Salty John]

Therein lies the problem - an alloy casing mated with steel bolts. The alloy produces a white oxide in salt water and this expands in the threads. Be careful you don't break the casting by using too much force.
This is a big problem I've experienced with alloy windlasses - the fastners become frozen solid with this white oxide material that expands in the threads to take up more room than the original alloy casting.
I've seen a suggestion somewhere that soaking the area in fresh water for several days dissolves the oxide and makes the job easier.

 

[pagoda]

Almost certain to be able to find PlusGas in a motor factor - or decent car accessory shop.
It doesn't smell quite as "good" as WD40, but lubricates better!

Graeme

 

[OGITD]

Seized threads.

One of our members had the very same problem….so! I applied a small amount of penetrating oil and left it to soak-in for twenty four hours, then a few drops of engine oil (apply additional heat from a hot air gun if required) and managed to free the threads off, enough to apply some:

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=330380368071

( similar product also sold in Halfords or any good Auto shop).

I then worked the threads until totally smooth.

Do no apply too much and do wipe off any excess.

On external threads which you have a requirement to operate from time to time such as the Spray Hood frame mounting point it is one of the best products.

Not to be used on plastics where I would only suggest silicon / dry-lube spray.

 

[sailorman]

Thanks for your help everyone. I've got a big tub of copper grease, doesn't do much if it stays in the tin! I now know what to do.

Now why do outboard manufacturers think putting plastic handles on the end of the clamps is a good idea?

DONT put Copper & Aluminium together the copper will Fizz the Ali

 

[seanfoster]

Thanks for your help everyone. I've got a big tub of copper grease, doesn't do much if it stays in the tin! I now know what to do.

Now why do outboard manufacturers think putting plastic handles on the end of the clamps is a good idea?

 

[VicS]

DONT put Copper & Aluminium together the copper will Fizz the Ali

It does seem sensible not to use copper based anti-seize compounds on aluminium but so far I have not found any recommendations from the manufacturers not to do so!

However there are some alternatives

The makers of Copaslip , Molyslip Atlantic Ltd, also offer Alumslip for use where "there is a prejudice against the presence of copper"

PBC (polbutylcuprysil) contains the copper as an organo-metallic complex. The makers, K.S. Paul (now part of Fuchs Lubritech) also offer an aluminium based anti-seize compound, Moly-Paul 1054

 

[neil_s]

Gently heating the clamp body (not the screw) should do the trick - no more than 100 deg C! Has worked for me many times - and doesn't burn the paint off or melt the plastic parts.

neil

 

[OGITD]

What timescale.

DONT put Copper & Aluminium together the copper will Fizz the Ali

What timescale are we looking at for the detrimental effect of the Copper-Grease on Ali?
It’s just that I have two seasons on the outboard bracket / clamp and 1 & ½ seasons on the Spray Hood fixing point / bracket and they are still OK with no excess wear or signs chemical reaction.
What I have noticed is that if you use stainless bolts or screws through Ali castings in a marine environment without copper grease is they seriously corrode and bond together.
As there are various types of aluminum ie it’s not all the same with the same properties and levels of reaction within certain environments, that it will react less in the marine environment than the accepted buildup of oxides which cause the threads to seize / bond.

 

[RivalRedwing]

better to put some Duralac between your stainless and alloy fittings to minimise corrosion. For greasing I either use a small amount of a seacock grease which has PTFE in it or a silicone spray, again with PTFE in it. I wouldn't be inclined to introduce yet another metal.