Securing liferaft on deck

[Pearldiver]

Hi, we've just bought a Westerly Pembroke and need to fit a liferaft to meet delivery skipper requirements. We hope it won't be needed in future but will keep it just in case
Not sure we can fit it on the pushpit (doesn't look strong enough for a steel cradle, nor enough space) so we are looking at chocks and straps on the deck just in front of the mast. Is there any clever way of doing this without drilling holes through the deck- glueing on wooden blocks to screw the chocks to, perhaps? Or do we just have to bite the bullet and drill holes and seal them effectively against leaks? If so, any tips?
Thanks!!

 

[Pearldiver]

Hi, bumping this one as I couldn't find it in the list of posts, possibly because it is my first post?
Thanks for any thoughts.

 

[Tranona]

Needs to be very secure so bolting is best. You might get away with selftapping screws if you also bond to the deck with an adhesive such as Sikaflex if you are using the plastic chocks which have well spread mountings. If you are through bolting leaks should not be a problem if you use a sealant and make sure you epoxy the holes and reinforce the deck if it is sandwich by removing some of the foam or balsa and filling with epoxy. Biggest problem is likely to be access to the deck head.

 

[Pearldiver]

Thanks, that's really helpful. Sounds like I need to be brave and get the drill out!
Cheers
Barbara

 

[pcatterall]

On my previous yacht ( teak decks) we glued hard wood blocks first to the deck then drilled through them. This meant that the hole was not anywhere near standing water. Usual advice includes drilling large holes first then filling the hole with epoxy then drilling through the epoxy, any leak cannot enter the deck fabric..... you may get a drip but not a rotten deck core!!
Decent pads inside of course.
Good luck

 

[Stork_III]

On my previous yacht ( teak decks) we glued hard wood blocks first to the deck then drilled through them. This meant that the hole was not anywhere near standing water. Usual advice includes drilling large holes first then filling the hole with epoxy then drilling through the epoxy, any leak cannot enter the deck fabric..... you may get a drip but not a rotten deck core!!
Decent pads inside of course.
Good luck

Decent boats don't have a deck core suseptible to water ingress.

 

[Deleted member 36384]

If you make chocks out of marine grade ply then you can glue them straight to the deck. The ply wood ensures that there is no grain for a chock to fail along. The joint will be strong enough if the surface area is large enough. In addition the chock can be sized to take fittings to attach securing straps too.

I would make a chock that is 3" wide and the length just longer than the width of the canister (2 chocks). Mine is mounted like this on the coach roof but using teak. At the upturn of the chock to engage the side of the canister, the teak has split. Apart from that the chocks are sound - of course you may consider the risk of ripping the gel coat off, or tearing the laminate out and loosing the life raft is reasonable but the force required to do this would probably crush the canister anyway. In that case through bolt. There is no doubt that through bolting and bonding is more secure if the bond did fail.

Bonding Instructions: http://www.westsystem.com/ss/surface-preparation/ and then http://www.westsystem.com/ss/bonding-gluing-clamping/ and a video http://www.westsystem.com/ss/basic-bonding-techniques/

If you want to drill holes, instructions here for mounting hardware: http://www.westsystem.com/ss/bonding-hardware/ and a video http://www.westsystem.com/ss/fastener-bonding/

Although the above guides are for West's Epoxy, other appropriate glues from different manufacturers can be used as well. I just find West's guides very useful.