Seamaster 27 keel bolts

doinguptheboat

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Hi all,

I'm currently renovating (very, very slowly!) a Seamaster 27 cabin cruiser. We have an issue with our keel bolts, or rather the timber around the keel bolt nuts. The timber on the main keel and both the bilge keels has rotted away around the bolts and the nuts don't appear to be in contact with the timber anymore.

IMG_5868.JPG

The boat has been standing on the hard for a few years and the keels appear to have shrunk a little as they've dried. The keel bolt heads are all glassed in to the boat. Just wondering what other people would do in this situation?

I'd preferably like to make a lasting repair – a few years ago boatyard owner suggested metal keel shoes, but not keen on that idea.

The problem is compounded by the keels being sat on blocks. The boat's at home so can't lift her.

Thanks in advance
Simon
 
Metal and wood can eat each other away. I would want to see what the state of the keel bolts are and would pick the worst one and remove it for inspection. If good I would just make a repair to the wood and tighten it back on. It would be easy to scarf in a bit to replace the rotten part. Use a good glue/epoxy of your choice many of which are stronger than wood and made for these conditions. I don't know your type of boat so I don't know what the risks/stresses are on your keel/s. I repaired a long keeled 28' boat and dropped a keel bolt or two for inspection and replaced. Timber is easy to work with and leave stronger than you started. Just protect it from similar happening again with a proprietary gunge that forms a nice seal and stops water getting between wood and metal.
 
That looks more like a Penny washer has corroded away.
The impression looks too perfect to be rot, I'd imagine that is compression caused by the washer that used to be there.
 
That looks more like a Penny washer has corroded away.
The impression looks too perfect to be rot, I'd imagine that is compression caused by the washer that used to be there.

It’s possible you’re right there- but the nuts would have been below the surface of the keel, so I suppose there would have been over-size holes to accept the bolts.
 
Well.... I can see two options.

Do it properly, chop the grp off the bolt heads inside the boat, take it all off, new timber, bolt it back together, but beware, the timber will shrink, esp in this weather, so if the project takes longer, you may end up back at sq 1. This option might be a lot of work and cost, perhaps more than the value of the boat makes worthwhile.

Second option, would be to clean off paint and key the hull surrounding the keels and glass over them, might be messy working overhead. It'll be cheap.
 
Well.... I can see two options.

Do it properly, chop the grp off the bolt heads inside the boat, take it all off, new timber, bolt it back together, but beware, the timber will shrink, esp in this weather, so if the project takes longer, you may end up back at sq 1. This option might be a lot of work and cost, perhaps more than the value of the boat makes worthwhile.

Second option, would be to clean off paint and key the hull surrounding the keels and glass over them, might be messy working overhead. It'll be cheap.

Thanks for the input. It’s a difficult decision. Some of the bolt heads are difficult to access. Some are at the bottom of the narrow vee of the keel in the hull moulding. I think there’s a couple under the engine, so that would have to come out. The bilge keel bolts are easily accessible though.

The main problem is the boat’s keels sitting on blocks - we had her transported and craned in to our garden. Therefore the boat needs lifting before I can do anything. So it’s almost ruling out diy on this repair.

We’re well aware that the boat will cost double her final value to restore, but we’re looking at a £600 transport fee to get her to a yard and the same again to get her back home again to finish her refit, before we even factor in the work. We fully expect to be working on this project for at least another two years.

I might have to get some estimates for the work, and see how we go.

Cheers
Simon
 
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