Sealing connectors

[zoidberg]

I have a goodly number of electrical connections to fabricate, and I have the task of sealing out moisture and problems. I have multiple greases, an assortment of heat shrink tubing, and a tin of Starbrite Liquid Electrical Tape.... oh, and some self-amalgamating tape.

Preferences?

 

[sarabande]

There are a number of specialist companies supplying really waterproof heatshrink (usually adhesive lined and with a high shrink ratio), e.g.

http://www.heatshrink-online.co.uk/

They know what they are talking about, and good customer service.

I suspect that making a really reliable connection is about skill as much as knowledge, and NASA have some very readable guidance with clear diagrams to help, e.g.

https://workmanship.nasa.gov/lib/ins...20Splices.html

Based only on personal experience, high-quality and purpose designed crimpers and terminals, plus temperature controlled heat source for heat shrink are needed. Perhaps because good tools give the non-professional user more confidence ? True for the bits I do on e.g. car trailers etc

 

[Lon nan Gruagach]

Based only on personal experience, high-quality and purpose designed crimpers and terminals, plus temperature controlled heat source for heat shrink are needed. Perhaps because good tools give the non-professional user more confidence ? True for the bits I do on e.g. car trailers etc

Not so, it takes a master craftsman to do a good job with bad tools, non-professionals stand no chance.

Absolute waterproofing needs gloop, whether its heat set glue in the heatshrink tube or gel filled wagos or messy grease or potting resin. Glue loaded heatshrink would be my first choice.

Note amalgamating tape is pants at watrproofing, it sticks well (very well) to itself but not to anything else and always leaves a spiral channel to the joint from outside.

 

[sarabande]

I wasn't suggesting that it is necessary to to be a master craftsman to do a good job with bad tools. Merely that skill and knowledge are different animals, and it will be easier for the OP (whom I know to be meticulous in such matters) to achieve the objective of security and waterproofness of the joint, with the aid of proper tools. There is no doubt in my experience that using e.g. a Klauke crimper produces a better result than a Draper 'pincher'; from there on it's a matter of practice on test pieces to perfect the skill, and to verify the results by testing before doing the work in the boat.

A professional electrician/engineering will score on speed, but there is no reason for the standard of amateur work to be any less.


As for self-amalgamating tape 'leaking', check out Kraken tape.

http://www.gaffatape.com/Kraken-Tape-Self-Fusing-Silicone/Default.aspx

 

[lw395]

...
Note amalgamating tape is pants at watrproofing, it sticks well (very well) to itself but not to anything else and always leaves a spiral channel to the joint from outside.

You're not using it right.
It needs to go on well stretched, with enough turns to compress the innermost layer.
Our skilled technicians could always make it work.

 

[zoidberg]

Just in case anyone wonders, I did realise this thread had been posted in the not-most-appropriate forum, but moments after it had been sent. Despite there having then been no responses, I tried and failed to find a way of deleting it... and re-posting elsewhere. After a while, and a nod towards the Law of Diminishing Returns, I gave up. We are where we are.

The 'contries' so far have been instructive, thanks. Among the gunks is Tef-Gel, and there's soldering available. The connections to be made include both large and small cable-to-clamp terminal, and cable-to-ring terminal. There may - will - be condensation, salt-particle laden airflow, vibration and thermal expansion.


( Gosh! There's majik in the air - or in the ethereal-phlogiston! There was me earlier today expressing regrets at a late-night 'fingrtrubl' moment, and suddenly the Blufin Post Faerie waves 'their' majik wand and HayPesto, this wee phred is hoiked from there and transplanted into 'ere. Gosh again.... :encouragement: )

 

[jamie N]

Note amalgamating tape is pants at watrproofing, it sticks well (very well) to itself but not to anything else and always leaves a spiral channel to the joint from outside.

Utter nonsense!!! I make up cables that go down below 1000 metres using Scotch 23, with PVC tape to cover it for protection.

 

[PaulRainbow]

If you need waterproof connections, use waterproof connectors. What sort of connections are we talking about ?

 

[pvb]

In most leisure boating situations, I can't envisage a need for a connection in a place which gets regularly drenched in salt water, other than tillerpilot/wheelpilot feeds, which commonly use proprietary waterproof plug/sockets.

 

[zoidberg]

What sort of connections are we talking about ?

Just a random group of f'rinstances, Paul....

There's not a lot left in my local Maplinses now.

And, for the truly sharp-eyed among us, that 35mm cable in the middle IS heavily corroded, so I'll be consigning its 50' parent to the local reclamation centre. It was a 'test piece' while I explored the functioning of my hefty handraulic crimper thingy, bought on 'ere for not a lot of beer tokens. The other 'yellow' terminations are not very good, either, and I expect to do rather better than those 'legacy' jobs.

 

[PaulRainbow]

Just a random group of f'rinstances, Paul....

There's not a lot left in my local Maplinses now.

And, for the truly sharp-eyed among us, that 35mm cable in the middle IS heavily corroded, so I'll be consigning its 50' parent to the local reclamation centre. It was a 'test piece' while I explored the functioning of my hefty handraulic crimper thingy, bought on 'ere for not a lot of beer tokens. The other 'yellow' terminations are not very good, either, and I expect to do rather better than those 'legacy' jobs.

Nothing there should really be getting too wet. If the battery cables are in a damp place use tinned cable and glue lined heatshrink. If you need to join any cables use glue lined heatshrink butt connectors.

There really should not be that much in the typical cruiser that gets too damp/wet.

 

[lw395]

If the boat gets that wet, it could be worth putting a lot of the electrics in splashproof junction boxes.
They are cheap from Toolstation.
At least then you can spray the connectors without it getting everywhere!

That 'heavily corroded' bit of fat cable, does not look 'terminal' (sorry) to me. A good crimp will shear through a bit of oxide layer and give a good joint.
It's a matter of achieving proper pressure in the crimp.
The main thing is to ensure no further corrosion takes place.
Obviously if the strands are losing their integrity, it's dead.