Sealant for Windows?

Stemar

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Jissel's windows are aluminium framed with perspex glazing. I refurbished them a year or two ago but, since then, they've leaked worse than ever. The glazing sealant I used simply hasn't done its job, so rainwater runs down the pane, into the frame and overflows inside the boat. Creeping Crack Cure has failed miserably. I'm going to have to redo them, but I want to use a sealant that will work this time. Any suggestions?

I'd prefer something available in black, but am definitely looking for effectiveness over aesthetics. Something that would work on less than 100% dry materials would be a bonus, given the likely weather over the next few months!

Thanks.
 
Jissel's windows are aluminium framed with perspex glazing. I refurbished them a year or two ago but, since then, they've leaked worse than ever. The glazing sealant I used simply hasn't done its job, so rainwater runs down the pane, into the frame and overflows inside the boat. Creeping Crack Cure has failed miserably. I'm going to have to redo them, but I want to use a sealant that will work this time. Any suggestions?

I'd prefer something available in black, but am definitely looking for effectiveness over aesthetics. Something that would work on less than 100% dry materials would be a bonus, given the likely weather over the next few months!

Thanks.
I refurbished a few of mine, took them out and resealed them, bought everything from: http://www.seaclear.co.uk/
The screws with captive closed nuts and the rubber sealer to go under the frame outside.
They were great, lots advice to.
 
Thanks.

I'm a convert to butyl tape for sealing most things, but the big problem with the windows seems to be between the perspex and the frame, not between the frame and the cabin - if there are any leaks there, they're masked by the serious leaks between the perspex and the frame.
 
Thanks.

I'm a convert to butyl tape for sealing most things, but the big problem with the windows seems to be between the perspex and the frame, not between the frame and the cabin - if there are any leaks there, they're masked by the serious leaks between the perspex and the frame.

That means you'll have to strip the windows.Look at car windscreen sealants.I once fixed a hatch with a Wurth product that came with a primer.Very effective.
 
Thanks.

I'm a convert to butyl tape for sealing most things, but the big problem with the windows seems to be between the perspex and the frame, not between the frame and the cabin - if there are any leaks there, they're masked by the serious leaks between the perspex and the frame.

Seaclear already mentioned.

Also look to see what Hadlow Marine, http://hadlo-43547-001.dsvr.co.uk/
and Eagle Boat Windows, http://www.eagleboatwindows.co.uk/ suggest

Be sure to use a sealant that is compatible with the window material.

There's a Sikaflex sealant for the job if you want to splash the cash on Sika: Sikaflex-295 UV
 
I had three goes at fixing mine (glued directly to the fireglass , frameless)
Then grasped the nettle and did it properly.
Sikaflex 295UV with the primer used on both surfaces before applying and hoping for the best.
Messy and expensive but it did the trick
 
Arbomast do a black butyl mastic that has worked wonders for me to seal frame and window. Clean everything with meths before assembly to remove grease. I bed the window frames to boat with arbomast BR, a grey non-setting compound.
 
Like others I used Arbocol non setting mastic to seal the Perspex into the frame, but used a rubber extrusion inside the frame which located the Perspex exactly in place. Try contacting Seals Direct in New Milton, Hampshire. They really know their stuff and are very helpful. Website www.sealsdirect.co.uk
 
I used Sikaflex EBT+ from Screwfix to seal the frames to the GRP on Zara. Seems to work OK, no leaks as of yet and available in various colours.
Not too expensive either, but it is fairly thick to apply, especially if a bit cold!
 
I had three goes at fixing mine (glued directly to the fireglass , frameless)
Then grasped the nettle and did it properly.
Sikaflex 295UV with the primer used on both surfaces before applying and hoping for the best.
Messy and expensive but it did the trick
Sikaflex 295UV worked for me. Still good after 9 years. Prior to that the sealant had suffered from UV degradation, temporarily (but only temporarily) stopped with Creeping Crack Cure.
 
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