Seacocks

[DKnight]

The Outlet- Seacock for my Toilet has failed, the shaft seemingly just turns. It is the type of Ball valve that you find in most chandlers which I believe is Zinc plated Bronze (Red Handle) I have been told that the Green Handled LLyods Approved DZ something seacocks are much stronger, and approx. £5 more expensive. This last sea cock was only changed 4-5 years ago but has always been stiff even when given lots of TLC, and am wondering whether to change type.
Any comments as to the choice of seacock and whether the DZ something <font color="blue"> </font> s are compatable with the ordinary ones, as there are a couple of these in close proximity.

 

[Phoenix of Hamble]

I've always been told to use nothing but Blakes on the heads seacocks..... don't know if I've been conned out of extra cash...... but its a big gamble to take....

 

[LeonF]

All the seacocks are green handled ball valves on my Victoria, including the heads outlet. I believe the green are better quality, and a different metal.

 

[angelsson]

Hi,
Lots of previous post re seacocks, Blakes are probably the best and most reliable, a visit to their site may be helpfull.
Mike

 

[asj1]

I would agree that Blakes are the best, but they are many times more expensive.
If your boat is already out of the water I would replace them with DZR ball valves (Maybe £10),but if you have got to pay for a lift out and back in specially for this job then pay for the blakes valve to do the job properly.
Mind you I think the hull fitting is very different and so old hull fitting will need taking out and new one, with larger hole, putting in its place. So quite a major job.

 

[demonboy]

Should sea-cocks be loose enough to turn by hand whilst at sea? One of my Blakes sea cocks has two settings: so tight you have to bang it open/close with a hammer or so loose it leaks water (albeit slowly). Is hitting it with a hammer ok??!!

 

[Phoenix of Hamble]

Gosh..... mine can be opened and closed with one finger easily and doesn't leak...

Have you greased them recently?

 

[john_morris_uk]

You shouldn't have to hit a seacock with a hammer!

With Blakes seacocks you are usually able to bring them back to life by taking them to bits and using some grinding paste to rebed the surfaces together. Obviously the boat has to be dried out for this (although I do remember winching my Sadler 25 over in its berth with the spinnaker haliard enough to replace a seacock once.) Some people swear by Blakes seacock grease, but I have always used water-resistant grease without too many problems. Make sure that you clean the seacock up afterwards and grease appropriately. The seacock should seal, and be a pleasure to turn - almost with your little finger!

Sadly I am speaking from memory of previous boats as our current boat has a plethora of ball valves. (At least they are better than gate valves with brass inserts!)

 

[demonboy]

Yeah, good point /forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif Will have to wait till this winter.....in the meantime they'll just have to stay open!

 

[cliff]

[ QUOTE ]
Yeah, good point /forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif Will have to wait till this winter.....in the meantime they'll just have to stay open!

[/ QUOTE ]"Bølløcks" Obtain a couple of softwood taper plugs (local swindelery) and as your valve appears to be jammed open, remove the hose and plug the end of the valve with one plug. Now remove the valve and quickly plug the through hull fitting with the other plug (you could use one plug and remove it from the valve when it has ben removed and use that plug to plug the through hull fitting. Now clean the threads on the fitting and apply PTFE tape or what ever you intend to use, close the ney valve and quickly remove the plug and screw on the new ball valve. Refit the hose and open the valve - job done!
I have changed many a valve, both on my own boats and on other peoples boats using this method and never sunk one yet! Be prepared to ship some water but in reality you should not ship more than ½ a gallon removing and refitting a valve.
It does help to have a helper with you just incase you drop a plug and have to rummage about for it.
It is difficult to keep one's hand over the through hull fitting while trying to reach into the bilges for the plug.
----------

“Artificial intelligence is no match for natural stupidity”
Skype id:cliffillup

 

[Steve_N]

It may need nothing more than an adjustment to the 2 bolts that hold the keeper plate: if these have been done up too tight (finger tight is about right, then nip up the locknuts) then the seacock will be stiff to turn.

 

[Colvic Watson]

And the problem with gate valves is....? Our 'new' boat has 2 of them (new ones) in the heads.

 

[ChrisSnushall]

My Blakes were hard to turn, probably hadn't been serviced for many years. We dry out so it was a simple job to take them to bits, clean the male and female tapers and regrease with a smear of waterproof grease and they have turned with the pressure of my little finger for the last three years. A pleasure to open and close! If badly worn you can use grinding paste to restore the smooth surface of the tapers.
Chris

 

[demonboy]

I had already played around with the keeper plate to no avail, Steve. To be honest I don't think they have been serviced in years because when I did tighten it 'finger-tight', they did leak (albeit just a little). I've regreased other sea-cocks and not had a problem with them so guess I need to wait till I'm next on the hard to sort out.

Does Vaseline do the trick or should I used something a bit more specific?

 

[macd]

"And the problem with gate valves is....?"
Can't remember the specifics, but happy to look them up when I'm next aboard. I remember that they're generally regarded as nasty and unreliable, and prone to leakage.

 

[aidancoughlan]

[ QUOTE ]
"And the problem with gate valves is....?"

[/ QUOTE ]
Having replaced all my seacocks recently, and researched a bit, I got the impression there are two problems with gate valves on boats:
(a) it's not obvious whether they are 'open' or 'closed' becuase of the round handle - with proper seacock handles the position makes this more obvious at a glance.
(b) gate valves *tend* not to be made of materials suitable for use in the marine environment (ie. usually non-DZR brass). Materials considered suitable for marine valves seem to be DZR-Brass (De-Zincification Resistant Brass - sometimes incorrectly called DZR bronze), Gunmetal (a bronze), Plastics such as Marlon (I think) NOT Tonval, NOT Brass.