Seacocks on Skin fittings above the waterline?

Bornslippy

Active Member
Joined
28 Feb 2020
Messages
43
Location
Southampton
Visit site
Hi
Anyone got any definitive information on whether skin fittings a long way above the waterline need valves or not? We're a 45' heavy long keel offshore ketch....the outlets are level with some portholes, so short of a knockdown will never be underwater. I'm mainly talking about manual and automatic bilge pump outlets, so not something I'm going to close off regularly or when I leave the boat unattended, or indeed, ever.

MCA coding seems to suggest :-

"An opening below the weather deck should be provided with an efficient means of closure"

but then goes on to clarify that :-

".....below the waterline it should be fitted with a seacock, valve or other effective means of closure which is readily accessible."

Maybe I'm hoping that there is an implication that a properly attached pipe is a suitable closure above the water line, given that it is a bit vague? If not, would a wooden bung do ?!

Coding isn't an immediate priority but keen to be safe and "do the right thing" anyway... but reluctant to put in pointless extra kit that costs money and can potentially go wrong...
 
Hi
Anyone got any definitive information on whether skin fittings a long way above the waterline need valves or not? We're a 45' heavy long keel offshore ketch....the outlets are level with some portholes, so short of a knockdown will never be underwater. I'm mainly talking about manual and automatic bilge pump outlets, so not something I'm going to close off regularly or when I leave the boat unattended, or indeed, ever.

MCA coding seems to suggest :-

"An opening below the weather deck should be provided with an efficient means of closure"

but then goes on to clarify that :-

".....below the waterline it should be fitted with a seacock, valve or other effective means of closure which is readily accessible."

Maybe I'm hoping that there is an implication that a properly attached pipe is a suitable closure above the water line, given that it is a bit vague? If not, would a wooden bung do ?!

Coding isn't an immediate priority but keen to be safe and "do the right thing" anyway... but reluctant to put in pointless extra kit that costs money and can potentially go wrong...
Unless you’re in heavy sea’s and a backflow is an issue, I wouldn’t worry too much about a little bit of spray. Below the waterline your dealing with a potential sinking if connections were to fail and since you’d have to be extremely low in the water for an adverse effect on the vessels stability, id simply play with the piping and connections rather than seacock it. Cost effective solution.
 
I tend to agree with posters recommending seacocks on all through hull fittings.

But it is not permitted on a gas locker drain and is overkill on many other above water fittings. In extreme circumstances (eg backflooding after drying out) you want a quick way of stopping and sealing all of them.

A set of tapered bungs or even a bag of carrots and a peeler to trim them would be essential and sensible equipment to have on board for the rare event.

I found out in my teens to my horror how much water a fin keeled 20 foot daysailer took on through a rowlock hole in the toe rail after drying her out on her side and refloating on the next tide.
 
Hi
Anyone got any definitive information on whether skin fittings a long way above the waterline need valves or not? We're a 45' heavy long keel offshore ketch....the outlets are level with some portholes, so short of a knockdown will never be underwater. I'm mainly talking about manual and automatic bilge pump outlets, so not something I'm going to close off regularly or when I leave the boat unattended, or indeed, ever.

MCA coding seems to suggest :-

"An opening below the weather deck should be provided with an efficient means of closure"

but then goes on to clarify that :-

".....below the waterline it should be fitted with a seacock, valve or other effective means of closure which is readily accessible."

Maybe I'm hoping that there is an implication that a properly attached pipe is a suitable closure above the water line, given that it is a bit vague? If not, would a wooden bung do ?!

Coding isn't an immediate priority but keen to be safe and "do the right thing" anyway... but reluctant to put in pointless extra kit that costs money and can potentially go wrong...
Its a good question.

I have several outlets above the waterline. Engine and generator cooling water outlets have no valves but anti siphon loops. Two deck drains and a gas locker drain have no valves. A third deck drain goes to an underwater outlet with a seacock. And there are two bilge pump outlets plus a grey tank outlet. I wouldn't want valves on them as I want them to discharge water or exhaust when needed. But I can see the risk. I already replaced one of the outlets which was damaged by a boat sling.

On the positive side they are reasonably accessible and I have plenty of wooden bungs handy. Will be interesting to hear others' views.
 
The OP was asking about bilge pump outlets. On none of my boats have I ever seen a seacock on the bilge pump outlets.

My boat has them; so did her predecessor. I suppose the argument for not having them is that the pump valves do the same job as a seacock, but there is always the length of discharge hose from skin fitting to pump
 
My boat has them; so did her predecessor. I suppose the argument for not having them is that the pump valves do the same job as a seacock, but there is always the length of discharge hose from skin fitting to pump
I have had rubbish caught in the flaps. The pump- a Henderson- was rendered inoperative until I removed the cover & took out a long slither of wood across both inlet & outlet valves
I have also run aground with the boat leaning very slightly downhill. Fortunately it was very calm, so I floated free OK, but water was sloping along the side decks. My Stella had an open cockpit so it was a bit disconcerting. That would have covered the outlets on any yacht.
 
Top