Seacock stuck?

[Murv]

I assume it is anyway, can't seem to turn it.
any tips for freeing it up? I don't want to put too much pressure on it as I'm bound to fracture the hull the way our lucks been going with this bl**dy boat!

 

[Three kings]

The best way is to dry the boat, dismantle, clean, grinding paste, clean again then grease. Trying to free it with extended handles, tapping with a hammer etc may work but if it is seized it really needs servicing.

 

[Rossynant]

Looks ball valve. Mostly the ball is fitted in some plastic 'bearing'. Those are disposables. When suspected - dispose off.
Get a proper one then - made of bronze or DZR, straight thread. Some 10-20 pounds.
Point to make - "seacock" is a valve mounted at hull skin, so to say integral with a thru-hull. Advice from Three Kings above is for seacocks This on photo looks just plumbing valve; correct me if I'm wrong.

BTW - looks connected to something, may be anode system? Get bronze/DZR brass, and do not connect to anything electrically. May be a source of corrosion problems...
http://www.diybob.com/SeacockTapered.gif

 

[Murv]

Ah, OK, thanks for that.
It's for the seatoilet, there are two there the same, one much smaller but that one moves freely.
I think the cable in the background is just one of the many dead ones laying about in the boat, it's not connected although it looks that way in the photo!
Are they easy to remove?

EDIT: So should I replace both of mine with the ones like you've linked to?

 

[Tranona]

That is a standard ball valve commonly used as a seacock. It is seized because of lack of use allowing deposits to build up on the seaward side. Best to clean it from the outside when the boat is out of the water. You may have to work the lever the free it. They cannot be serviced as there is nothing to replace or grease. If you can't free it then replace it with a new DZR valve. Regular operation will reduce the chance of it seizing in future.

 

[Bav34]

We once had the same problem.

After much banging and crashing I managed to destroy the red handle.

Took it off and was a bit annoyed to find a nice square end that I managed to fit a looooong adjustable spanner too ... creaked open in seconds.

Worth a try and much better leverage.

Follow above cleaning tips

 

[Murv]

Superb, thank you, will have a go at it tomorrow.

 

[Murv]

To remove it, do I have to hold the nut as indicated by the badly drawn Red arrow whilst turning the main body? or, does the whole assembly unscrew from the connecting pipe?

 

[Bav34]

Superb, thank you, will have a go at it tomorrow.

If the boat is in the water make sure you have one of those nice wooden bungs handy.

Just sayin'

 

[Falling Star]

Nope, turn the red arrow nut - or the one on the other end.

Try to stop the skin fitting turning as this may destroy the seal.

 

[Murv]

If the boat is in the water make sure you have one of those nice wooden bungs handy.

Just sayin'

Sorry, should've pointed out, boat is out of the water!

Nope, turn the red arrow nut - or the one on the other end.

Try to stop the skin fitting turning as this may destroy the seal.

Wonderful, thank you

 

[VicS]

To remove it, do I have to hold the nut as indicated by the badly drawn Red arrow whilst turning the main body? or, does the whole assembly unscrew from the connecting pipe?

It's this sort of thing:

 

[Murv]

To remove it, do I have to hold the nut as indicated by the badly drawn Red arrow whilst turning the main body? or, does the whole assembly unscrew from the connecting pipe?

It's this sort of thing:

Right, got it, thanks.
It looked as if it was two part construction from the picture.
Apologies for my stupidity by the way, I am learning!

 

[Rossynant]

Are they easy to remove?
EDIT: So should I replace both of mine with the ones like you've linked to?

Do not worry much. All You need is them working properly.
Important thing is to have an eye on hull openings generally so if you are not sure they're corrosion resistant it's small money for a peace of mind. Those You have are screw-on, no problem, should unscrew even by bare hand. Grab and turn. They are made for it.

It's a bit of work to put proper seacocks on the hull (so no one does...) and they are costly. My Blakes from toilet cost 200 pound and nowadays are made of brass - so I serviced the old originals, made of proper bronze, as they are better. For engine I bought new DZR balls (1" for some 20) to screw on thru hulls like yours. Takes a minute or two to change.

But my thru hulls are of bronze. If not sure of yours, scrape from outside of hull, look for any pink colour - this would mean they are brass and lost the zink already, time to change.

 

[Murv]

Do not worry much. All You need is them working properly.
Important thing is to have an eye on hull openings generally so if you are not sure they're corrosion resistant it's small money for a peace of mind. Those You have are screw-on, no problem, should unscrew even by bare hand. Grab and turn. They are made for it.

It's a bit of work to put proper seacocks on the hull (so no one does...) and they are costly. My Blakes from toilet cost 200 pound and nowadays are made of brass - so I serviced the old originals, made of proper bronze, as they are better. For engine I bought new DZR balls (1" for some 20) to screw on thru hulls like yours. Takes a minute or two to change.

But my thru hulls are of bronze. If not sure of yours, scrape from outside of hull, look for any pink colour - this would mean they are brass and lost the zink already, time to change.

Fantastic, thanks very much

 

[MoodySabre]

The one marked by the red arrow is a locking nut so that you can get the main body at right position to be able to work the handle.

I used a very large adustable and a pair of Stilsons in order to get the old one off. Ordinary spanners of that size couldn't be found. Replace with DZR as advised.

 

[VicS]

The one marked by the red arrow is a locking nut so that you can get the main body at right position to be able to work the handle.

I think not.. see the picture in my post.

Fitting a back nut to lock the new valve in the required position would however be a sensible thing to do.

 

[KenMcCulloch]

Right, got it, thanks.
It looked as if it was two part construction from the picture.
Apologies for my stupidity by the way, I am learning!

You were not being stupid, the valve body is indeed in two parts, that's how they get the ball in! It's pretty unusual to dismantle them, though.

 

[Murv]

You were not being stupid, the valve body is indeed in two parts, that's how they get the ball in! It's pretty unusual to dismantle them, though.

*feels slightly better* thanks

 

[prv]

Another vote for replacement here, if you can spare the cash. A chromed valve like that is almost certainly plain brass, which isn't ideal in seawater. Couple that with the buildup that can be found in old toilet valves (mine were reduced to half their original diameter) and it's better and simpler to replace. Not 100% necessary if money's tight, but personally I would.

Pete