G
Guest
Guest
What is the method for freeing seized or stiff Blakes sea-cocks? Can it be done in or out of the water? Thanks.
tome
New member
You can try tapping the handle with a mallet to free them - I've done this succesfully on a couple of occasions with the boat in the water. If they are stiff, then they will need to be dismantled possibly reground and definitely regreased which can only be done with the boat dried out or ashore.
If they are really seized solid then you need to dismantle the cover plate and drift the cone out from the outside.
If they are really seized solid then you need to dismantle the cover plate and drift the cone out from the outside.
G
Guest
Guest
Thanks. Is it just a case of undoing the two bolts that I can see? Will the thing then come to bits? I will now be doing this with the boat out of the water. Thanks in advance.
smb
Member
Better out than in.
It is only the two bolts. I did mine in the spring and if i remember correctly the two bolts were threaded into the base and had a locknut underneath. Something I overlooked until after I had sheared the head of the bolt off.
Steve
It is only the two bolts. I did mine in the spring and if i remember correctly the two bolts were threaded into the base and had a locknut underneath. Something I overlooked until after I had sheared the head of the bolt off.
Steve
DeLam
New member
I always thought Blakes seacocks great -that is until I came to the Med .
It is virtually tideless and means any underwater job- its a haul out.
I initially changed them to the "new" type you can lubricate but they gradually tightened and siezed despite being greased and regularly "worked".
I have now had them changed to ball valve type and hope it solves the problem.
Anyone thinking of coming to the Med should consider under water maintenance,
it can be costly!
It is virtually tideless and means any underwater job- its a haul out.
I initially changed them to the "new" type you can lubricate but they gradually tightened and siezed despite being greased and regularly "worked".
I have now had them changed to ball valve type and hope it solves the problem.
Anyone thinking of coming to the Med should consider under water maintenance,
it can be costly!
roger
New member
Plus gas is usually helpful in case of difficulty and a modest amount of heat from a hot air gun.
vyv_cox
Well-known member
Loosening can be done afloat. The size of the aperture of a toilet discharge seacock is about the same as a log impeller and these are regularly removed by us all when afloat, plus a tapered seacock plug is far easier to locate than an impeller. The bolts holding some seacocks tend to tighten in use, whereas others loosen. No explanation for this. All that is need is to loosen the bolts a little and tap the valve handle gently upwards. Assuming that the cock has been operating fairly recently, this will free it. Very little water will enter the boat if the bolts are slackened, not removed.
However, it is perfectly feasible to remove the plug completely, stuffing a rag down the body in the meantime. The plug can be cleaned, greased and replaced with only a pint or two of water ingress. Scary, but not an unacceptable risk. Perhaps not so convenient if the seacock is in an accommodation locker, but in the heads should be no problem.
However, it is perfectly feasible to remove the plug completely, stuffing a rag down the body in the meantime. The plug can be cleaned, greased and replaced with only a pint or two of water ingress. Scary, but not an unacceptable risk. Perhaps not so convenient if the seacock is in an accommodation locker, but in the heads should be no problem.
tome
New member
Before you undo the bolts you can see, locate the 2 nuts which are hidden under the seacock. These have to be undone (clockwise from above) before you attempt to remove the bolts otherwise you may shear them. On my boat it's a devil of a job reaching the inboard nuts and I've had to cut down a 5/8in spanner to fit.
Once you've undone the nuts (remove them completely) you can easily undo the bolts from above. This releases the cover plate and allows you to withdraw the central cone with handle. Might need a tap with a mallet.
Clean all grease (paraffin/meths etc) from the seacock and examine both cone surfaces. Any scores or pitting and you'll have to clean up the surfaces. Use fine grinding paste from Halfords (applied sparingly to the central cone) and rotate the seacock backwards and forwards until you have smooth surfaces. Now clean all vestige of grinding paste and grease both parts using Blakes grease (4 quid a tub). Try fit the central part with handle and open/close a few times. Should feel smooth.
If it's gritty clean both parts again and repeat greasing - you haven't cleaned off the grinding paste.
When well greased re-assemble and replace the bolts and cover plate. Whilst operating the handle, tighten up both bolts evenly until the you can feel light friction on the handle. Don't over-tighten or you'll force out the grease.
Replace and tighten the lock nuts.
Once you've undone the nuts (remove them completely) you can easily undo the bolts from above. This releases the cover plate and allows you to withdraw the central cone with handle. Might need a tap with a mallet.
Clean all grease (paraffin/meths etc) from the seacock and examine both cone surfaces. Any scores or pitting and you'll have to clean up the surfaces. Use fine grinding paste from Halfords (applied sparingly to the central cone) and rotate the seacock backwards and forwards until you have smooth surfaces. Now clean all vestige of grinding paste and grease both parts using Blakes grease (4 quid a tub). Try fit the central part with handle and open/close a few times. Should feel smooth.
If it's gritty clean both parts again and repeat greasing - you haven't cleaned off the grinding paste.
When well greased re-assemble and replace the bolts and cover plate. Whilst operating the handle, tighten up both bolts evenly until the you can feel light friction on the handle. Don't over-tighten or you'll force out the grease.
Replace and tighten the lock nuts.
LORDNELSON
New member
I think Blakes recommend medium grinding paste, the reason given being that the slightly rougher surface holds the grease better.
rex_seadog
New member
When we bought our Delta about 5 years ago the Blakes' seacock was stuck in the open position and would not yield to considerable mechanical persuasion even with the two bolts removed. However heat applied fom an electric hot air gun for just a few seconds miraculously did the trick. No need to get it red hot - just enough to soften the grease and 'gunge'.
tome
New member
Correct, but I could only get fine or coarse from Halfords so went for fine -seems to work for me!
G
Guest
Guest
Thanks a lot. Any idea why the two heads seacocks tend to stiffen up long before the others? All the best.
P.S. I have printed out your reply to take to the boat!
P.S. I have printed out your reply to take to the boat!
DeLam
New member
Why bother with all that trouble and worry when you can fit a seacock with less
likelyhood of jamming. The principle of a taper cock IMHO is all wrong, Machine
tools use the taper as a means of getting a positive drive by the jamming system!.
Its only my thoughts so ,go on disagree!
likelyhood of jamming. The principle of a taper cock IMHO is all wrong, Machine
tools use the taper as a means of getting a positive drive by the jamming system!.
Its only my thoughts so ,go on disagree!
vyv_cox
Well-known member
OK, then I'll disagree.
Blakes taper seacocks are pretty much universally accepted as the best type available, so it's not my opinion. I'm certainly not worried about mine, I never give them a thought. Personally, I never has one seize anyway.
Gate valves are absolutely hopeless in this duty, apart from their material the mechanism is prone to seizure and the gland packing is unreliable.
Ball valves are something of an unknown, I would prefer not to have plastic seats that cannot be inspected.
I wouldn't mind trying plastic valves but my Blakes taper valves show no sign of deterioration after nearly 20 years, so it will be a long time before I get the opportunity.
Blakes taper seacocks are pretty much universally accepted as the best type available, so it's not my opinion. I'm certainly not worried about mine, I never give them a thought. Personally, I never has one seize anyway.
Gate valves are absolutely hopeless in this duty, apart from their material the mechanism is prone to seizure and the gland packing is unreliable.
Ball valves are something of an unknown, I would prefer not to have plastic seats that cannot be inspected.
I wouldn't mind trying plastic valves but my Blakes taper valves show no sign of deterioration after nearly 20 years, so it will be a long time before I get the opportunity.
castaway
New member
Les
If your sea cocks are reluctant to move after slacking off the 2 bolts, and as your boat will be out of the water, just find a suitable bit of bar or pipe or poss even wood. Stick it up the out side of the skin fitting until it comes up against the end of the 'cone' one sharp knock with a hammer and it will be free... dead easy. I actually used my bilge pump handle but box spanners etc. are a good option.
Regards Nick
<A target="_blank" HREF=http://www.yachtsite.co.uk/fairweather>http://www.yachtsite.co.uk/fairweather</A>
If your sea cocks are reluctant to move after slacking off the 2 bolts, and as your boat will be out of the water, just find a suitable bit of bar or pipe or poss even wood. Stick it up the out side of the skin fitting until it comes up against the end of the 'cone' one sharp knock with a hammer and it will be free... dead easy. I actually used my bilge pump handle but box spanners etc. are a good option.
Regards Nick
<A target="_blank" HREF=http://www.yachtsite.co.uk/fairweather>http://www.yachtsite.co.uk/fairweather</A>
Apetts
New member
If you can close the seacock disconnect the pipe from it and fill up with Coca Cola and leave a couple of hours. I used to do this with a rudder which frequently stiffened up. It always freed it.
tome
New member
Probably because they give the most problems so people are more prone to tighten them up in a misguided attempt to cure the leak?