Sea Cock service?

[Brian_B]

I've been told by the wife (Skipper) that I have to service all the sea cocks before putting our boat back in the water next month.
This seems like a lot of work on six difficult to get at sea cocks that are smooth operating and appear to be working fine.

She says that, as she serviced all the winches I should do the sea cocks!

Do other people service their sea cocks every season?
Or is this a case of, if they aren't broke, don't fix them?

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[Mirelle]

Do it

I've just done mine, so I'm feeling smug!

Seriously, all modern Blakes seacocks have a grease nipple, which makes it pretty easy. Only those older than 20 years or so have to be dismantled.

You may well get away with not doing them for a season, but sooner or later one will grind to a halt and you will have to slip the boat to sort it out...

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[ccscott49]

Do as your are damn well told!!
Fairs fair! Skipper did the winches!
Actually it`s a good idea to check them over every year and give them a grease every couple.

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[sailorman]

DO AS U R TOLD
if not i could do with my winches sericed. i have done my seacocks!.
pls pass on the post. thanks

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[Brian_B]

Re: Do it

Where are these nipples?
Our boat's a 1991 build.

I had anticipated having to remove existing hose connections, unscrewing the cock from the fitting, dismantle and grease, then reverse the process.
All this in the normal confines of the heads or galley locker. What fun!


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[LORDNELSON]

Re: Do it

My boat is 1987 and has the old (un-nippled) sea cocks. You do not need to remove the hoses unless they are totally in your way. It is possible to maintain the cocks in place so long as you do them regularly. Just slacken off the two bolts remove the spigot, clean out using bottle brush etc., and then grind in with medium valve paste, clean out again, grease with a good water resisting grease (Blakes sell their own but its very expensive), replace spigot and tighten retaining bolts until the valve can be open or shut with gentle pressure AND CHECK THEM AS SOON AS YOU LAUNCH! Be careful to ensure that you do not antifould over the exterior sieve plates on the inlet cocks or otherwise block them or you will have great difficulty (and smells) in getting the heads to operate. Good Luck

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[StephenW]

The trick is to sort out all the correct spanners etc you need on the first seacock - then its very simple to repeat for every other seacock. Assuming you have Blakes and not gate valves.

Blakes type ("cone valves") are actually pretty quick to service once you get into the swing of things - maybe 20-30 mins each in total. If they are reasonably you can normally get away with a quick cleanout and regrease. Blakes waterproof grease looks like a green version of Keenol to me.

So (in dry dock);
1. slacken nuts on valve top
2. remove top flange plate
3. rotate and remove central cone from valve body by lifting out (handle may stay with it or just come off the square top)
4. clean out and check condition of internal valve (small mirror and a torch handy for this - or check from outside). If OK then re-grease (light smearing all over) if pitted grind in till smooth. Clean out & regrease
5. Re-assemble, as said before don't overtighten

Check the top of the valve stem and handle assembly - there is often a small nick in the square metal top of the valve where it locates into the handle. Normally you can orientate this in a consistent way to be sure when the valve is open or shut.

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[ccscott49]

Re: Do it

SAounds to me you havent got blakes seacocks, if they are skin fittings, with ball or gate valaves we are talking a totally different job here. First job, find out what seacocks are fitted.

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[Brian_B]

Seacock

I think you are right. I don't think they are Blakes. Our seacocks have straight hosetails with the handle on the side.
They are on a Starlight35.

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[Johnnygil]

Re: Do it

what happens if they are gate valves how do you do them?

Cheers

J

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[ccscott49]

Re: Seacock

If they are of the ball type, I`m not sure, but I think you can just clean them, as the balls a re stainless and the seals teflon, which needs no lubricant. If gate valves, they can be stripped down, cleaned and regreased, but I would bin them and fit ball valves. I`m not sure about how to do the ball, type, as I dont have any. Mine are all blakes.

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[StephenW]

Re: Do it

Some would argue they shouldn't be on a boat!

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[Fin]

blakes valve pitting

One of our cones has a bit of pitting that won't grind out. Its about the size of a 5p piece, rest of the cone is smooth and fine. Whats the verdict, enough surface area to be ok or do I need to get a new cone? If so, where do I get a new cone? Also isn't all grease water proof or am I being simplistic?

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[ccscott49]

Re: blakes valve pitting

Does the valve leak when its closed? If not its fine as long as it isn`t going to fall aprt. I`m sure blakes still supply cones.

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[Fin]

Pitting

Haven't got the boat wet yet! (but the last owner didn't say that she had sunk at any time)

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[rex_seadog]

Re: Pitting

Whenever I see a thread on Blakes' seacocks I always like to add my two penneth and that is to make sure you are turning them off properly. After suffering many years of water backing up the loo when sailing well heeled I discovered that you need more than a 90 degree turn to turn them off completely - a further 15-20 degrees in fact. This should become obvious when the valve is dismantled.

Blakes also advise to grind with a fairly course paste as this leaves a rougher surface for the grease to cling to. Also the cone should be tightened only lightly so as not to squeeze out the grease - you should be able to turn the handle with one finger.

I have also started to use the very clingy (and expensive) Blakes grease and last season for the first time I had no leaks. However, I expect this all coincided with learning how to turn the damn thing off!

Like Fin's cone, our's had a 5p size area of pitting but we managed to grind most of it out. I think if you follow the advice about not tightening down too hard the grease will fill any small imperfections.

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