Sculling with a sweep

kengill

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I have always kept an oar on board on the theory that if all else fails i can move the boat slowly by sculling from the transom.

Well today being such a nice evening I drifted up the creek until I ran out of puff and just continued with the tide.

AHAH I said to myself said I I'll try that wizard whizz with the oar.

Ain't it typical how theory never works out first time. I discovered that A the oar was too short and that B the blade was too small to deal with the power generated . If there's Anyone actually does this properly I'd be most grateful; for a little advice . I reckon I need at least 10 foot with about 1 1/2 sq ft blade area and keep the two inch diameter shaft.

Ken
 
Sculling should be done with a 'figure of eight' motion using the wrists, but I cant tell how long your sweep should be without knowing the dimensions of the boat. - I should reckon about eight/ten feet long for a twelve foot boat, depending on the height of the transom. I used to use an oar of normal dimensions for the dinghy.
 
I row from the bow if i have to move a short way to another anchorage, in port i use the rudder and that can move the boat quite effectivly, not recomended for a long distance but then nor is sculling--looks very boaty though!!
 
If you've ever seen French yachtsmen sculling ( their engines are taxed so many do without one) you will know that they have a socking great sweep with a large blade.

Sorry not to be more accurate but I reckon your guess at measurements are probably on the right lines
 
Scullling is one of those things which is on my list of things to learn, but mainly having had rubber dinghys over the years have never got around to it.

I remember a few years back one of the magazines had a letter / article, where it was suggested that to start off with that it may help if the oar was attached to the dinghy with a length of lanyard (from the transom to just below where your hand is), so that you know / learn where the upward movement of the oar is meant to be - whilst you are concentrating on learning the figure of 8 and wrist movement.

No idea of course whether this does help /forums/images/graemlins/laugh.gif /forums/images/graemlins/laugh.gif /forums/images/graemlins/laugh.gif

BTW I wish I hadn't started trying to describe this!
 
When I was a boy, I used to watch the lighterman/watermen in the Medway, and the Scull/Blade whatever you want to call it was operated chest height, 2 handed, facing aft, with the occasional glance over the shoulder, whilst they sculled hellforleather. The u shaped notch in the transom was pronounced and was the depth of the blade which was not attached, it protruded probably 5/6 ft aft, simple geometry yes?
 
My sweep oar is about 9 foot long with about 2foot six freeboard at the stern of the 22 ft boat. The oar couldnt be much shorter.

Very usefull for manouvering in tight spaces or if I cant be arsed to rig the outboard for a short hop from mooring to pontoon when theres no wind..
 
Re: A sweep

needs to be long enough to go from your chest height, when you stand in your chosen sculling position, to having the whole blade submerged, entering the water at an angle of about 45 degrees. On my 25 footer thats about a 12 ft oar.

You can also use your sweep at the side using a conventional rowing action. This is way easier in the longterm or in a chop, sculling is more useful when room is tight or you want to pose. When one oared rowing, you balance up the turning motion with a bit of rudder.
 
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