Scratched windows and hatches

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andrewg

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Does anyone know if anything can be done to remove / improve the fine scratches on plastic windows and hatches on my sailing yacht? Is there a product to treat this or is it a question of putting up with it or replacing entirely? If there is a product, where can it be purchased?

Any advice gratefully received...

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there are polishes on the market, or you could try a hobbie store for polishing compounds for plastic, and at the extreme end, have used 'crest toothpaste' and wet tissue to polish plastic

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I got some stuff designed for the job out of a caravan spares shop. Haven't tried it yet and its down on the boat so can't remember its name. soz

Fin

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yes - 3M "Finnesse It" polished well with an electric polisher makes a big difference. Well worth a try.

rob

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There is a Boat Pride product for this purpose and probably others.

<hr width=100% size=1><font color=purple>Ne te confundant illegitimi.</font color=purple>
 
i have some gunge called 'acrylic window polish' from a chandlers. it takes a very long time but does remove fine marks. if you need to polish out scratches you'll need an electric drill with a linen polishing disc or similar.

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Hi Andrew,

Agree with some of the others. There is a (Boatpride?) or similar well known make of Acrylic polish specifically made for what you need. I have some and use it on everything fron scratched watch faces and GRP, to the boat windows and worktops. It's not cheap, but it's excellent, and a tin will last you years. It can go a bit stiff in the tin, but as it's water based, just add a a splash and stir!! It is very easy and quick to use. Don't make the mistake of tackling too big an area at a time, as the abrasive agent is designed to break down finer and finer as you rub, and too big an area makes it very difficult to get an even gloss. Experience will tell you what is right for you. The results can be spectacular and the polished finish superb..

Good luck

Jerry

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I found this in another newsgroup:
"While our caravan was parked, unattended, for a week some young morons decided to write their names either with knives or darts on the rear window. The cuts were quite deep. I priced a replacement window at £280 so decided to follow advice given some time ago in this newsgroup and try to buff the cuts off. I used Euthymol tooth paste and the polishing brush for a car, mounted on a black and Decker drill. After 3 hours work I finally got rid of all the cuts and now the window looks fine. Some others might benefit from this experience. (UK newsgroup) ".

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I have one little niggle in the back of my mind regarding metal polish.
Products like T-cut have an ammonia free version for use on acrylic paint systems and this suggests to me that there is some problem with ammonia and acrylics. Now metal polishes like Brasso contain ammonia!
Having said that I have used metal polish in the past for polishing Perspex, but only for very small jobs by hand. I think for a large job I would splash out on the Boatpride stuff and a buffing mop for an electric drill, and I don't mean a lambswool bonnet.

<hr width=100% size=1><font color=purple>Ne te confundant illegitimi.</font color=purple>
 
Sorry to disagree with other posters but I always understood that you should not use a circular action, but straight lines to remove scratches in perspex, I have always used fine Ferecla products which I think includes boat pride it works but requires a lot of effort.
Good luck

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I grind and polish acrylic lenses for underwater photography and television so I have got the hang of taking out scratches and machining marks. You need to start by taking out the scratches with about 400 grade wet-and-dry used wet. On windows I would do that by hand with the paper wrapped around one of those sandpaper sponges until I have a uniform matt effect with no trace of the original scratches.

Then use T-Cut on a cloth covering a bit of old carpet on a backing disc with a slow electric drill. Take care not to let it get hot but check frequently that the surface is getting towards the desired quality, eventually with no remaining traces of the first stage scratches.

A final buff with perspex polish by hand should have things back to perfection.

By the way this won't work with "crazing" where there are loads of minute cracks in the surface caused by stress over a number of years. These are really much too deep to remove by this method and the window needs to be replaced.

Geoff

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Depends if it's scratching or UV degradation crazing.

If the former and not very deep, fine (800) wet and dry fininshing with jewellers paste will do the job, but is only worth doing if they're small.

If the boat is more than 6/7 years old the crazing is most likely UV degradation and replacement of the panels is the only feasible option.

Try Salford House Services, #8 Bartram Farm, Old Otford Road, Sevenoaks, Kent TN14 5EZ. tel 017324 64635, contact Patrick Cole. He supplied all the parts for reglazing a couple of Lewmar hatches on my boat about 2 years ago.


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