Scavenging oil from a Volvo Penta MD11c Reverse gear / Centaur

[FairweatherDave]

I think I know the answer to this one..... I scavenged perhaps a litre of oil up the engine dipstick hole after running the engine for 20 mins. But I failed (forgot) to scavenge the reverse gear. I am now guessing I should have got another 2 litres from there as the manual indicates a total capacity of about 3 litres, assuming the oil levels were correct beforehand. Am I right? And are the two "reservoirs" of oil linked? (If they are why are there two dipsticks?). Many thanks for any replies. Dave
PS It is a 1977 Volvo Penta MD11c Reverse gear on a Westerly Centaur

 

[Kurrawong_Kid]

I think I know the answer to this one..... I scavenged perhaps a litre of oil up the engine dipstick hole after running the engine for 20 mins. But I failed (forgot) to scavenge the reverse gear. I am now guessing I should have got another 2 litres from there as the manual indicates a total capacity of about 3 litres, assuming the oil levels were correct beforehand. Am I right? And are the two "reservoirs" of oil linked? (If they are why are there two dipsticks?). Many thanks for any replies. Dave
PS It is a 1977 Volvo Penta MD11c Reverse gear on a Westerly Centaur

I don't think you are correct! But it depends on whether you have a MS(monoshift?) gearbox or the original which had a seperate gear lever from the throttle. If you have an MS gearbox then the oil is isolated from the sump. You will have to drain this through the gearbox dipstick hole and I normally manage to extract about 0.7 litres. This oil is usually very clean. The engine takes about 3 litres including the filter. So usually about 2.00 to 2.5 litres comes up the engine dipstick hole and there is about 0.5 litres in the filter, which I change at the same time.
However the original gearbox was integral with the engines oil supply and was extracted via the dipstick hole. I don't think there was a seperate dipstick for the gearbox on those engines.
All this is from memory and you would be wise to check with the Volvo manuals (google).
I think most likely that you are not getting right down into the sunk with the probe (I use the thinnest one) and are thus not getting all the oil out.

 

[petersto]

Yes there are seperate sumps for each. My experience is that the oil has to be at least up to running temp before extraction as the engine may feel hot but the oil is still only warm it should be hot. I have removed the top of the engine dipstick(the bit with the four indentations) before now but never found that enabled me to get much more oil out. If you are doing this ashore if she is nose up that will have an affect on the amount of oil extracted. Best of luck.

 

[FairweatherDave]

Both interesting!!
I think the boat might be a bit nose up.
I am not sure what reverse gear I have but I know it is the original engine and I know I have two dipsticks (and only scavenged one hole). However the throttle and gear change are all integrated. The oil was certainly cleaner in the reverse gear on the dipstick but I thought that might be because I had added fresh oil and it had gone there first. To be honest the dipstick on the engine oil did not look any fresher so I suspect I did not scavenge deep enough but I was pretty certain I had got the pipe to the bottom at the time..... when I was doing it I did not know how much oil I was trying to get out.

(For information I did run the engine for a good twenty minutes and the oil got warm not hot). (I was not recycling the exhaust water which I presume would have been helpful, but tricky). When I drained the top 3 stopcocks I did find evidence that the antifreeze I had sucked up at the end had got there..... does that mean I had got the thermostat to open? ....so much to learn!)

 

[VicS]

We always drained the engine oil from the MD11c by pumping out as much as possible after removing the coarse strainer. The remainder we drained via the sump drain plug. It is not easy to get anything underneath to catch the oil from the sump drain in a Berwick so it may not be possible at all in a Centaur.

Note you must remove the coarse strainer not just the dipstick

The MS gearbox has never been drained and as far as I know only ever topped up once. It can be drained by pumping out via the dip stick hole. I don't know why they recommend changing the oil every 50 hours.

The owners manual can be down loaded from VP's website HERE

 

[scottie]

Gear oil is usually drained to check for contamination ie water.clutch linings or metal filings it does not wear as such which s why back axles are sealed for life.
The ms box does have a drain plug but access is normally nil

 

[FairweatherDave]

Note you must remove the coarse strainer not just the dipstick

Thanks Vic. I'm not sure what you mean though, (and it does not mention it in the "Instruction Booklet"). However studying the Workshop manual there is a special tool 884714 (4 prongs on a socket) that looks like it removes the "body" around the dipstick hole. Is that what I need?

My plan now is
either to leave the old oil now until next year before the season starts (as I am satisfied with the rest of my winterising and don't want to run the engine again)
or scavenge the old oil properly but do it on a cold engine.

Any opinions? (Does oil at 3 to 7 degrees scavenge??)

And as it is a seperate system I think I will leave the MS reverse gear oil alone for this year. (Thanks Scottie - I did locate the ms box sump plug but would not fancy using it)

 

[scottie]

Thanks Vic. I'm not sure what you mean though, (and it does not mention it in the "Instruction Booklet"). However studying the Workshop manual there is a special tool 884714 (4 prongs on a socket) that looks like it removes the "body" around the dipstick hole. Is that what I need?

My plan now is
either to leave the old oil now until next year before the season starts (as I am satisfied with the rest of my winterising and don't want to run the engine again)
or scavenge the old oil properly but do it on a cold engine.

Any opinions? (Does oil at 3 to 7 degrees scavenge??)

And as it is a seperate system I think I will leave the MS reverse gear oil alone for this year. (Thanks Scottie - I did locate the ms box sump plug but would not fancy using it)

If you remove the strainer it is essential that it is airtight when replaced or you are likely to loose your oil pressure

 

[FairweatherDave]

Scottie. We just crossed posts as I edited . Can you describe where the strainer is?

Petersto. I realise you refer to the 4 indentation thing around the dipstick...... is that the way to the strainer?

 

[VicS]

Yes the coarse strainer is the bit the dip stick fits into .

If you have one that requires the special tool that's a pain because the tool is, I believe, no longer available.

Some have square that you can put a spanner on. No problems then.

Important, as said, that if removed it seals properly when replaced ( I found a fibre washer in a plumber's merchants that was the right size). The same goes for the dipstick so keep an eye on the O ring on that

 

[FairweatherDave]

Thanks Vic. I think I might be on a special tool hunt....... (I am Shoreham based if any helpful offers come via PM)

In the meantime is it pointless to contemplate a "cold oil scavenge" on the basis that I might be able to change 90% say of the oil.....?

(All points taken about getting a decent seal to achieve oil pressure)

 

[VicS]

Thanks Vic. I think I might be on a special tool hunt....... (I am Shoreham based if any helpful offers come via PM)

In the meantime is it pointless to contemplate a "cold oil scavenge" on the basis that I might be able to change 90% say of the oil.....?

(All points taken about getting a decent seal to achieve oil pressure)

I doubt you will now be able to extract any oil just too darn cold. It really needs to be good and warm ... and well circulated or it's cold at the bottom .

I doubt also if you'll get 90% of the engine oil out without removing the strainer unless its a different design to what I am used to. Even with the strainer out I reckon we probably drained another 0.5 litre via the sump drain .

BTW once that strainer is out its a good place to fill/top up the oil!


Making that tool would not be difficult. You'll need something to do to retain your sanity over the Xmas and new year period

 

[FairweatherDave]

Cheers Vic. I shall wait until it warms up......... tool making I might delegate to my brother who is a car nut (hexagonal head )
(and re. your tip I did pour oil everywhere when I tried to top up too fast down the correct hole)

 

[VicS]

(and re. your tip I did pour oil everywhere when I tried to top up too fast down the correct hole)

you are not alone !

 

[scottie]

I think that you may find enough meat on the fitting to cut a square

 

[Kurrawong_Kid]

If you remove the strainer it is essential that it is airtight when replaced or you are likely to loose your oil pressure

Absolutely correct! If you do lose oil pressure you have to remove the oil pump and refil it with oil and then replace on front of engine ( at least on an MD2B you do!). A horrivble job