Scarfing a rubbing strake ?

You are going to want to spile this to the sheer to do anything like a decent job (you don't want it bending up and down as well as sideways).
.....

I don't buy the argument on UV failure of epoxy in this instance as all that is exposed is the edge of the glue line. Epoxy as a coating suffers UV failure even in Scotland! Having said that, Maltese sun may reach parts that no other sun reaches.

When I replaced the rubbing strip on Follia Pura the vertical part (from memory) was 55 x 20. It was Iroko and did not require any spiling or steaming, just a lot of clamps.

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As for "the Maltese sun" it is not just the UV that plays havoc with epoxy joints but also the temperature - close to 38o in summer - tends to soften epoxied joints. I have never had this problem with resorcinol, neither with Cascophen (which I used in the past) nor with Bindan-Cin, which I use at present; perhaps the heating effects of the Scottish sun are slightly different. ;)

p.s. The boat is a Kim Holman design, meaning that there is quite a curve in the vertical plane of the sheer.
 
Mine needed spiling for what I thought was a very modest sheer, but then it's section is quite beefy. Putting the scarph a bit skew-wiff dramatically reduced the width of plank required. In truth the decision that it had to be spiled was taken by the professional wooden boat builders who did the work. It may be that they just thought it was the "right" way to do it. It may also be more important in a wooden boat not to apply the bending stress to the plank it is attached to. I wouldn't like to.
 

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I am probably not the right person to ask, because I plan to try my first ever experiments with steaming wood on Monday, but I am pretty sure the answer will be "Yes, particularly if you steam it". In your position I would definitely be looking for a long length of wood supplier before faffing about with joints. Whereabouts are you?
I'm in Somerset.
 
Mine needed spiling for what I thought was a very modest sheer, but then it's section is quite beefy. Putting the scarph a bit skew-wiff dramatically reduced the width of plank required. In truth the decision that it had to be spiled was taken by the professional wooden boat builders who did the work. It may be that they just thought it was the "right" way to do it. It may also be more important in a wooden boat not to apply the bending stress to the plank it is attached to. I wouldn't like to.

That's a very interesting issue. I wonder if the need to spile is because of the combination of the sheer and shape and length.

P1040017 by Roger Gaspar, on Flickr

The top plank (the gun'wale) was 3 x 12" planks either side: part of the plank is hidden under the knuckle, part visible above the knuckle (varnished). Certainly the neither the gun'wales and the knuckle (akak rubbing strake) wasn't spiled but the angle of the bottom edge needed a great deal of attention - probably the most difficult part we did as the angle changed all the time. Given at 32 length, the beam at 9' 1" isn't wide but there is a bit of sheer. I suspect your image (rather nice one) rather 'flattens' the sheer? I think the OP should scarf up the rubbing strip and offer it up.

(PS - bent stanchion replaced! - and the stanchion base block could have been angled better!!)
 
Use the wedge shaped bits you cut off as packing for the clamping so that you are squeezing at right angles to the glue line. I actually stuck them to the wood with hot melt glue as I knew I'd be cleaning up and planing afterward anyway.

A very clever idea.

I wish i had heard of that before several jobs I have done when clamping tended to slide the parts down the scarf
 
Have a word with Robbins Timber in Bristol then. A bit on the pricey side,but very, very good. Their website is down about 95% of the time, but they are very helpful on the phone.

Yes thanks. I've already gone to Robbins as I work approx 1 mile away from them but they've quoted £320 which seems lumpy to say the least!
 
Yes thanks. I've already gone to Robbins as I work approx 1 mile away from them but they've quoted £320 which seems lumpy to say the least!

For that sort of money you can get teak from Howells already machined. 22mm thick and widths of 50, 63 or 73mm. don't know what lengths he has but worth a call.
 
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