scaffolding 'tent'

sarabande

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I'm about to build a tent for the boat, using scaffolding and Monarflex sheeting.

Which shape is best , please , to cope with winds blowing athwartships ?

GLPWKXK.jpg


Please ignore the absence of bracing and triangulation.
 

Stemar

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None of the above!

I used an arch-shaped winter cover with hoops made of MDPE pipes, a ridge pole and two A-frames made of scaffolding poles.

It was fine. Until the plastic cover degraded after a couple of winters and split in a gale

View attachment 169979
I have similar over my cockpit. At least I had last time I looked. SotonMet had a gust of 61kts a couple of hours ago!
 

JOHNPEET

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A few questions -
1. how big are you thinking?
2. have you thought about how you will anchor it to the ground?
3. how long do you envisage the shelter being in use?
 

StefanSG

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A chap at Dell Quay built a structure from timber, (he runs the Practical Sail School there) that still stands after 4 years, and survived gales that ripped my tarp to ribbons. Big old boat, 40 plus foot I think. Think little church on the prairie, in plastic. Wish I'd done the same, I would have had a chance of doing the decks.

SSG
Screenshot from 2024-01-02 19-57-43.jpg
 

JOHNPEET

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Some photos of the shelter that I built from scaffolding, timber and scaffold sheeting. Dimensions of the structure was 14m long, 7m wide and 6.5m high to the top of the ridge. Each of the scaffold uprights had a wheelbarrow full of concrete holding it down. The scaffold sheeting lasts about 2.5 years before the uv degradation kicks in . I would advise against using the fire rated sheeting, as that doesn’t seem to stand up to uv anywhere near as well - only 6 months! Diagonal bracing of the structure is obviously very important and nowhere more so than within the roof structure. A very large degree of the overall structural integrity comes from the roof. My shelter was in place for 12 years (not the original intent!) for my build and held up exceptionally well to be honest.

IMG_0654.jpegIMG_0653.jpegIMG_0658.jpegIMG_0652.jpeg
 

Neeves

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JOHNPEET

Impressive

How much did it cost to have the neighbours and local council accept such a structure?

Not answering the question but an option used to build a Fusion 40 (40' cat). They supply, or supplied, the complete kit (its like a giant Airfix kit) in 2 x 40' containers. They supply hoops that fit between the 2 containers and you simply supply the cover. This means you hold onto the containers, rent, but have a place to work under cover and keep everything under lock and key.

Jonathan
 

JOHNPEET

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JOHNPEET

Impressive

How much did it cost to have the neighbours and local council accept such a structure?

Not answering the question but an option used to build a Fusion 40 (40' cat). They supply, or supplied, the complete kit (its like a giant Airfix kit) in 2 x 40' containers. They supply hoops that fit between the 2 containers and you simply supply the cover. This means you hold onto the containers, rent, but have a place to work under cover and keep everything under lock and key.

Jonathan
😂😂

luckily, I only have neighbours to one side who I get on with very well! I did have to apply for planning permission for the temporary structure , which was granted without objection. I also sought an informal agreement for access with the owner of the land to the rear of our property, as I needed to park the crane and low loader there for the lift out at completion . Also luckily, they remembered and honoured that agreement.


Back to the OP’s post - some good advice given by another poster about having plenty of access around the boat for access equipment such as tower scaffolding or trestles etc. especially important for painting where you need space between the access equipment and boat. If the shelter is to be there for any length of time, good access will be required around the outside of the shelter to allow for re-covering the structure too. In hindsight, I could have done with more of both!
 

sarabande

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Thanks JP, Poignard and others for the help. Only a small 32ft boat, so I'll try for a smaller construction.

Still undecided whether to go for scaffolding , or a polypipe construction. :(
 

afterpegassus

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Thanks JP, Poignard and others for the help. Only a small 32ft boat, so I'll try for a smaller construction.

Still undecided whether to go for scaffolding , or a polypipe construction. :(
The main issue to contend with with a scaffold frame is preventing the fittings and tube ends tearing the monarflex.
Monarflex is frequently used offshore over a scaffold frame to provide short term weather protection and that is exactly what it does - provides short term protection because after a blow, it is reduced to shreds.
Better if you went for a polypipe type frame as per Poignard's post.
Nb see also Polycrub - a polytunnel seen widely up here made in Shetland from salmon feed pipe which is frequently washed ashore in these parts.
 

JOHNPEET

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The main issue to contend with with a scaffold frame is preventing the fittings and tube ends tearing the monarflex.
Monarflex is frequently used offshore over a scaffold frame to provide short term weather protection and that is exactly what it does - provides short term protection because after a blow, it is reduced to shreds.
Better if you went for a polypipe type frame as per Poignard's post.
Nb see also Polycrub - a polytunnel seen widely up here made in Shetland from salmon feed pipe which is frequently washed ashore in these parts.
The life expectancy of the monarflex all depends on how it is attached to the scaffold structure. In the construction industry, it is typically attached to the scaffold in a fairly loose fashion with toggles through the holes and around the tube. As you say, not uncommon for it to tear itself to shreds in a storm. In my case, I pulled the sheeting taught and used clout nails to attach it to the timber longitudinals which were 3”x2” or 4”x2” . I then nailed 2”x1” battens over the sheeting onto the timber with 21/2” nails. In this way the sheeting stood up extremely well to the high winds and I got up to 21/2 years out of the sheeting before recovering. To recover, I just removed the battens, nailed another layer over and refitted the battens. With the sheeting being taught, it also adds to the overall structural integrity of the shelter.
For the OP, a lot will depend on the actual chosen site and how well sheltered it is from the prevailing winds. The structures present a massive amount of surface area to the pressure of the wind in a storm. It also needs to be well anchored to the ground.
 
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Corribee Boy

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