Sardinia! Where are the customers’ yachts?

[camelkingsize]

Hello all. Been a long time since I posted.

I am planning to move my boat from Bodrum to Sardinia. I went over to Olbia this weekend to check on a few marinas to book an annual berth for a 18mt Princess V57. Four of the marinas report fully booked (Olbia, Rotondo, Portisco, Puntaldia) but having visited them they were 80 per cent empty in mid March.

Do owners keep their boat under the shed? If you are sailing in the area what are your arrangements?

I live in London so not a liveaboard and plan to visit the boat on long weekends from May to September.

Do I try to get an annual berth as it seems to cost the same as summer season and also pay for winter storage?

 

[MapisM]

The places where you've been actually are not in Sardinia, but in Costa Smeralda - which is in fact a bit of a different world, somewhat disconnected from the rest of Sardinia.
Yes, some of the resident boats are sheltered during the winter, so you don't see them in their berths.
But I could bet that the main reason why they told you they can't give you an annual berth is that they already know they will be filled to the brim in July and August, and the transit prices at which they will sell berths in that timeframe are ridiculously OTT - to the point of more than covering the missing income of an annual berth.
In fact, some of these marina often offer 10 months contract (i.e. annual, with the exclusion of Jul and Aug) at rather reasonable prices.
Which you might consider if - as some boaters who keep their boat in N Sardinia do - you can spend those two months cruising elsewhere, like in S Sardinia, Corsica, or wherever you fancy.

Alternatively, unless you're only interested in Costa Smeralda for some reason, you might consider S of Sardinia, which probably would also suit your plans better.
I mean, there's plenty of flights to Olbia from many places during the peak of the summer, but if you're thinking to go to the boat also in May and Sep, chances are that you'll have flights available to Cagliari, but not to Olbia.
With the added bonus that weather is warmer for longer in the south, so you'd be surprised by how enjoyable your boat can be also before May and after Sep.
You can find several marinas right in the town of Cagliari (which is very nice BTW - much more so than Olbia in fact, albeit nowhere near as filled with boatyards for any sort of technical support you may need), which I'd be very surprised if they couldn't offer you a 18m annual berth.
Or if you prefer quieter locations, with stunning cruising grounds just round the corner, you may consider either the SE or the SW (respectively, either Capitana/Villasimius or Carloforte/Teulada).
But for long weekends, all these locations would steal some of your precious time for reaching them after landing in Cagliari - particularly Carloforte (where I am based), which being on a small island requires 40 minutes of local ferry on top of a one hour drive.
You pays your money and you takes your chance...

 

[camelkingsize]

Thank you so much for the insightful experience. I will definitely enquire the marinas in the south, preferably close to Cagliari as I will try to keep travel times short.

Is your boat going under the shed during the winter? Is the island not safe during mistral in a marina?

 

[MapisM]

Overall, in S Sardinia there are less possibilities of sheltering the boat, compared to Olbia.
But my boatyard can take my boat, so yes, I usually shelter her.
By and large every other year, because unless I'm travelling a lot, I enjoy the boat also in wintertime.

But I'm afraid the answer to your second question is it depends, not all marinas are equally safe.
Also, Sardinia is a big island, so mistral can be more or less strong depending on location - not so much in Cagliari for instance, where it blows from inland.
Anyhow, as I previously said, in general when people shelter their boat is just because they can and want (as I do), rather than for fear of wind-triggered damages.

 

[jointventureII]

Try Poltu Quatu (Marina dell'Orso I think it's called) which is very conveniently located.

Costa Smeralda, in my opinion, is now crowded to the point that it needs to be avoided between mid July and end August (I'm a full time superyacht skipper so we end up there a lot!) Prices are insane and all the hotspots are rammed, also at anchor you'll have someone drop on top of you 99% of the time. There are these little hire RIBs with 40hp outboards (ie no licence required in Italy) flying all over the place. How there aren't more accidents I don't know.

Mapis' suggestion of south Sardinia is a good one. Olbia airport is one of the best served between June and September but then it drops out completely whereas Cagliari is served well all year. The areas around Cagliari are amazing

 

[MapisM]

Try Poltu Quatu (Marina dell'Orso I think it's called) which is very conveniently located.

Lovely and cozy marina, surrounded by a dramatic natural scenario, but I'm not sure about the convenience.
Should the OP decide that he likes Costa Smeralda (which still has its appeal for many people, particularly if interested not only in the cruising grounds but also in summer night life), Poltu Quatu wouldn't be my choice for an annual berth.
In fact, in wintertime it really becomes a ghost place, even more so than most other C.S. marinas - which are generally ghost-ish, even in the most famous spots.
And I mean it: a few years ago in February, I couldn't find a bar open in Porto Cervo, no less - let alone a restaurant!
BTW, in spite of the fact that the Poltu Quatu extends deep inland, hence is well sheltered, the entrance is exposed to Mistral - to the point of making the approach very risky, in a blow.
Lastly, it takes the best part of one hour drive to go there from Olbia airport. A time you can only dream of in summertime, when the traffic on that road increases unbelievably!
Portisco or Rotondo for instance, albeit almost as ghostly as Poltu Quatu in wintertime, are much closer to Olbia.
Comparably closer alternatives, along the coast S of Olbia, are Puntaldia, San Teodoro, and Ottiolu.
Not so close to the heart of C.S., but with nice cruising grounds nearby anyhow, and less affected by mistral.
Not to mention that in wintertime they aren't as dead as C.S. is.
Anyhow, at the end of the day my choice for an annual berth in that area, considering the wish to go there occasionally in wintertime, would probably be Olbia, whose marina is literally at walking distance from the airport.
With the caveat of checking flights availability, as already mentioned.

 

[martin]

HI CKS, i had a P50 in Sardina (poltu quatu) for a year before covid. Things to know about Costa Smerelda (from my experience which may differ from others on here). First MpM is correct in saying that Poltu Quato is DESERTED after September.(to be honest most of Costa Smerelda is) ..not even a coffee shop open! The hotels are closed and the ATM's have bin bags over them...only supermarkets open really. Ghost town. Which is fine if you like that sort of thing, it didnt bother me. All boats bar about 4 will have gone to Olbia to storage sheds. The crane at PQ in those days would not lift a P50 so check for a V57. In winter, the lights/power often fails so you can be waiting for morning, on your own, with the genny running at your mooring. We left because they opened a club in the marina called Lio's (yes that one) which blared music across the whole place until midnight, you couldnt have a quiet night on deck...and it was the same music/acts every night which got a bit tiresome. Boat owners complaints were largely ignored...I hear it closed but we were long gone, no idea what is there now. Now the final piece of advice. Be prepared for issues with difficult suppliers, unmarked rocks and shallows, costly parts and the a coast guard who seems to enjoy challenging foriegn yacht owners. All said and done.. I loved and hated the place at the same time.. if you want to have a chat PM me

 

[jrudge]

I have been twice for an extended cruise. Mapism is the expert. Southern Sardinia is lovely you can water ski round your boat as the next one is 500m away. The water is clear. The downside is the mistral which does blow.

Costa smeralda is fine for a few days passing through but is very expensive and very crowded. There is a great fish farm which is Tesco for dolphins which are everywhere.

It is deserted I winter.

If you can find an annual berth at a fair price ( you won't ) fill your boots but personally I think there are many nicer places to keep a boat.

 

[piratos]

I have been twice for an extended cruise. Mapism is the expert. Southern Sardinia is lovely you can water ski round your boat as the next one is 500m away. The water is clear. The downside is the mistral which does blow.

Costa smeralda is fine for a few days passing through but is very expensive and very crowded. There is a great fish farm which is Tesco for dolphins which are everywhere.

It is deserted I winter.

If you can find an annual berth at a fair price ( you won't ) fill your boots but personally I think there are many nicer places to keep a boat.

I certaianly hope South Sardinia is that lovely. I will leave Sizily by end of April, pass via Tunisia to take diesel and proceed to Cagliari where I will have family coming on board, then spend the month of May in South and Southwest of Sardinia and beg June continue to Mallorca.
AGW I will end up in South Spain/Gibraltar area for the winter.