Santiago di Compostella report

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tcm

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The apostle st james was killed by Herod in AD44, and his mates took him back to his favourite place near the end of the earth in north-west spain, and promptly lost him to the dark ages. About 800 years later somebody found a dead body in the same area and the local bishop had a look and said hurrah- it's St James, no question about it. Santiago di Compostella means burial place of St James. Nothing to do with jimi's holding tank.

The done thing is to go on a pilgrimage, and SdC is second most popular pilgrimage spot after Rome and Jerusalem, apparently. From Paris, for example, there is a cafe called "le Depart" which celebrates the departure point for french pilgrims in Boulevarde St Michel. And now i've finally made the trip as well, taking the modern route via Gatwick and Stansted airport. It's not far from L Coruna and renting a car is cheap.

The middle of Santiago is a big square with a fabuloulsy ghastly cathedral. Inside, there's a queue to see the actual no-question-about-it remains of St James. Embracing various statues is conclusively proven to bring good luck to you, another one where apparently you kiss it in order to catch any disease going, and finally you knock your head on the final statue to acquire intelligence. It's a good job that we in the west have these proper sensible religions based on Truth and Fact, i reckon.

Mostly, that's about it. You can wander around the narrrow streets and go to bars the rest of the time. It is fine to nip in, have a bit of food and a glass of wine, and then off to the next. A nice very laid-back bar is the Casino bar in a road called Vilar. Foodwise, "pulpo" is squid which is ok, and "revuelta" (sp) is scrambled eggs.

A fab reaturant walkable just outside the old town is Michelin 1-star and called toni Vicente (toni is not mafia, it's a she) and all very fab food.

The Parador do Reyes Catholicos in the centre of the town is recommended. This is a big brutal building yonks old next to the cathedral in the main square, and you can stay there for about 230euros for a double room a nite. Itis sort-of run by the govt, apparently, but really i reckon they just lease the building, perhaps. Anyway it's quite few stars and properly hotelish.

The hotel looks like a prison from the front cos there are almost no windows on the front but there are a few, with balconies. I also had a swift look at a brochure about the other rooms and thort uh-oh, if swmbo finds about these other rooms later i may have to come back. It seems quite normal to ask about an upgrade at which point you get shown round giant suites with spare rooms and ceilings over 20 feet high, and it costs about double, but all very swish.

The very holiest day is St james birthday on25th July which is also my birthday as well, and if this falls on a suday it's a Holy Year. The next one is 2010. I bet the queue in the cathedral will be massive, tho.

Anyway, good spot to go if you haven't been. Ryanair takes 40 mins to cross the Bay of Biscay, which felt a bit awkwardly sort of cheating really. The ticket costs 20quid. The bloke across the aisle in the plane sed his cost him 2p, git.
 
Unless you fly Iberia... Buggers.
When I flew in here, my bag turned up a day late, open and half empty. The guy I spoke to on the phone told me I had a month to send in my complaint. 3 weeks later, I'd sent in mine and was told I was too late!!!
Otherwise SDC is nice. Too far from the water though. Not a big fan of Ryanair either actually, they have nicer cabin crew than sleazyjet, but the planes (and pilots) leave more to be desired.
Much of NW Spain is fantastic though, so I won't complain further. Not to mention the best cheese going...
 
It is possible to sail nearly all the way there. In 1996 we got "Sentinel" upriver as far as Noya (found it a bit deeper than the RCC Pilotage Foundation book suggests) and then a short bus-ride into Santiago. But the proper way to get there is to hike along the pilgrim's track from the Pyrenees across north Spain, which takes about 4 weeks. Unlike you I laid scepticism aside and found the cathedral wonderful. You should have been warned, TCM, that if you don't get there under your own steam you cannot expect to appreciate the experience.
 
To add to TCM's story:
1. Santiago comes from Santo Tiago, Tiago, also Yago being the spanish name for James.
2. Compostella comes from "Campo" and "Estrella", the field(campo) that was indicated by a star(estrella), where the body was found.
3. One can have different opinions about cheese, but the two best known galician cheeses are the San Simon, a smoked cheese, and a very young cheese, of which the best known is the one from Arzua.
4. The competion of Ryan Air caused Iberia to stop their flights from Santiago to London Heathrow and transferred them to La Coruna starting february 1, if I remember correctly. Times of departure and arrival as originally to and from Santiago.
5. The hotel Reyes Catholicos was build by the Reyes Catholicos as a hospital for the pilgrims, who came to Santiago. It is claimed to be the oldest hotel in the world.
6. It is one of the "paradores", a chain of gouverment-owned hotels, most of which are in old buildings, monasteries etc.
 
The "fabuloulsy ghastly cathedral"
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A quote from my Log for 1998

"Saturday 4th July was most definitely a ‘Gold Star’ day. We went by train from La Coruña to Santiago de Compostella, the capital town of Galicia and the Cathedral City of St James. The train journey was an experience in itself: we travelled on the new TRD service, a fast diesel train on which every seat is individually booked no matter where you buy your ticket. It travelled high across the hills through some magnificent scenery coping with the steep gradients with ease.

We arrived at the Cathedral just as a service was about to start so we joined the congregation. It turned out to be a Mass to celebrate a local Saint, though just who we are not sure. However, as it was a special service, the famous incense burner was swung after the sharing of the bread. It was truly amazing. The burner stands as high as a choirboy and must weigh very considerably more. It is suspended from a huge rope that goes over a pulley way, way up inside the central tower. Eight monks take its weight on the other end of the rope and a priest gives it a push to set it swinging. By timing their pulls, the monks swing it higher and higher until the rope touches the arches that support the roof and the burner is swinging across the full length of the two transepts. Meanwhile, the organ is building up to an ear-shattering crescendo. We have never before experienced anything even remotely like it - it was, in every way, sensational."
 
Visited this Cathedral last summer. This is the back and is a little less than attractive. The front is much better. But it was packed when we went, and as we lost cantact with our guide, I think I have learned more about the place on this thread.

Who says that the Forum isn't educational?
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Re: Apostle St James builder?

Glad to see members enjoying their stay in Santiago!We have just inherited a really big white elephant from the previous government so please leave your loose change as you go,as we need to finish payinf off the prestigous american architect,not his fault really,usual over spending on a city of culture that nobody knows what to do with....sound familiar!
 
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