Sanding caulking

[cardinal_mark]

Now its getting a bit colder, and the family aren't so keen to go out on the water, I thought I'd get startd on a few maintenance jobbies. The first and by far the biggest is to sand down where the caulking is standing a couple of mm proud of the teak in various areas around the cockpit and deck.

So, off I go on Saturday with my Black and Decker in hand (like a bigger version of those mouse things) and get stuck in. After about 2 hours toil, dripping in sweat and a nursing a savagely aching back, I only managed to cover half of one cockpit seat and even then the caulk was still standing proud - albeit slightly less so!

For some reason the caulking doesn't seem to sand down flush before I hit the teak. This is all well as the teak is ridged (its 10 years old and has been heavily scrubbed at some point in the past) but I don't really want to do a full deck sand because at this rate I reckon it'll be 2009 before I finish and I'll then need to spend a good few months in remedial physiotherapy!

Does anybody have a better idea for trimming, or tips for effectively sanding, the caulking? I've tried running a razor blade and a stanley knife blade along but the caulk just squashes down and doesnt cut. I did think of using a belt sander but a quick search of past posts suggests this might be a bit too aggressive.

Any suggestions appreciated!!

Mark

 

[mica]

Hi Mark,

We experienced the same problems as you with sanding and in the end we resorted to a sharp chisel for difficult areas and an electric plane for the bigger open areas. Did it all in a weekend (43 footer).

Regards,
mica

 

[cardinal_mark]

An electric plane - wow I've never even heard of those (I'm a DIY incompetent of the highest order!!). Are they difficult to handle? I tried a mini manual plane but all it did was slide over the top and squish the caulking down.

Mark

 

[LittleShip]

Try one of these. http://tinyurl.com/7qytn

Tom

 

[pvb]

I did my HR's decks a couple of years ago. Same problem as yours; the caulking was 2 or 3mm proud. I removed most of the excess caulking with a scalpel-like craft knife, which took ages (not helped by the fact that HR use narrow planks so there's a lot more caulking!). Then I used a lightweight belt sander very carefully, keeping it moving around. If your teak is very badly worn, there may be areas where it's preferable to compromise and just remove the worst of the ridging rather than trying to sand it totally smooth.

Ideally, you need a belt sander with dust collection, because teak dust is harmful to inhale.

If you find that some of the caulking comes out, be sure to replace it with compatible silicone caulking (obtainable from HR Parts if you can't find it anywhere else).

 

[cardinal_mark]

<If you find that some of the caulking comes out, be sure to replace it with compatible silicone caulking (obtainable from HR Parts if you can't find it anywhere else).>

Presumably this means the Sikaflex DC stuff (and the like) is no good for HR's... typical! Nothing like adding a further layer of complication to the whole deal is there - what's up with the Swedes? we've always been nice to them; haven't we?

Mark

 

[pvb]

Yes, Sikaflex won't stay stuck to the wood unless you spend ages cleaning the groove. As you've already discovered though, the silicone caulking used by HR is undeniably durable!!

 

[AIDY]

Just spent a couple of month relaying the deck on our boat using 6mm teak strips lots of hard work but looks good. from experience you should be using a belt sander to sand with a very fine grit. to take the caulking flush with the teak us a chiesel cutting on the back edge so you dont cut into the teak. if you are going round external areas that are hard to get at a belt file is ideal for the job.

I found that purflex was better caulking than the expensive silkaflex. only about 3 pounds a tube trade price from vitesse marine in fareham.

 

[Porthandbuoy]

Anyone tried a modellers plane? Takes a razor blade, so is as sharp as blazes.

 

[doca]

I've been thinking of paring down the caulking too, but would it not help to slow down teak wear if left alone ?

 

[cardinal_mark]

I'm not sure to be honest - presumably it would!

The issue for me is that if you drag a deck shoe or similar over the proud areas there is more chance of rolling and lifting the caulking out altogether and I'm hoping if its flush this wont be a problem.

Mark

 

[cliff]

Sanding with 80g open coat paper will work very well if you use a decent orbital sander NOT a belt sander. I suggest 3m paper as sold by B&Q for paint removal.

If you want to cut the caulking I suggest a blade out of a block plane but it must be sharp and I mean razor sharp with a 20~25° secondary bevel angle. A power plane will also work if the plane is accurately setup and you have a steady hand - if the plane coggles you will cut a noice groove in the decking. The finish will not be as good as manual "shaving" and there is the risk of pulling some of the caulking out. Again you are liable to pull some of the caulking out using a belt sander.
These B&D palm sanders etc are no use for the job you are talking about apart from final finishing. I use a ½ sheet 1hp industrial sander. Axminster Power Tools do a wallpaper stripper that uses 2 stanley knife type blades which is also good for trimming caulking - £5.24 - as it holds the blades at just the correct angle.
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"Artificial intelligence is no match for natural stupidity"

 

[cardinal_mark]

Thnaks everyone - looks like I've got a good few options to try out!

Mark

 

[pvb]

Why \"NOT a belt sander\"?

Most sources of advice on teak decks stress the need to sand with the grain, and many specifically advise against using oscillating sanders. On that basis, a belt sander with fairly fine paper would seem to be the tool of choice.

 

[cliff]

Re: Why \"NOT a belt sander\"?

In experienced hands, yes but from my experience most diy'rs are not experienced enough - still keeps me busy fixing their cock-ups /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif
I prefer to use an air driven reciprocating sander - like a small "long board" - for final sanding on decking or 120g ½ sheet orbital on a small orbit.

One problem with belt sanders is the abrasive - the grades readily available to joe public tend to clog easily and this results in heat build up and subsequent pull out of the caulking. I buy all of my belt and roll abrasives from a specialist supplier.
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"Artificial intelligence is no match for natural stupidity"

 

[nigelhudson]

I use an ordinary window scraper - the type that takes a Stanley knife blade. Use a fresh blade and lay it on the surface so that the blade is as flat as possible. The trick is to angle the blade at 45 deg to the line of the caulk and then slowly slide the scraper along the caulk. If it starts to dig into the wood back off and restart, angling the blade the other way if necessary.
Once you've removed the bulk of the caulk then you can sand but do it by hand unless you have a very delicate touch with the power sander. Use a medium grit paper and a small block along the line of the caulk. The aim is to give a smooth finish to the caulk and take any high spots off the wood without getting any deep scratches in the wood.
It's a time-consuming job which requires patience but it does spruce the boat up!