Sand-o-matic

[Kristal]

I managed to prove that topside sanding is too big a job for my dad's old Black & Decker (the poor thing died on the final 7/8ths of the job) and intend to stock up on powertools.

As I'm moving over to Coelan this year, I will be taking all Crystal's brightwork back to bare teak (it's not far off it at the moment) and there are a few great swathes that are probably the work of a sander.

Has anyone tried the small, iron-shaped "Mouse" sanders by Black & Decker, or something similar, designed to get into corners and allow delicate pressure on the tip for small patches, but could equally handle a few feet square patches of cockpit seat.

/<

 

[Mirelle]

We've got one. The snag is the cost of mouse shaped sandpaper pads.

We also have a 750mm belt sander (a brutal tool!) and an ordinary rectangular orbital job.

Frankly, I have gone back to hand sanding with wet and dry, used wet, for the topsides and for in between sanding of varnish and Coelan.

 

[burgundyben]

I have an ageing bosch dual action sander, its pretty good and if I buy the discs 50 at a time its not so expensive, I bought 50 * 80 grit and 50 * 120 grit a longwhile ago, it seems a lot to shell out for sand paper in one hit but the stock lasts a long time.

I have a good finish all over on the boat so dont have to do too much sanding, I tend to not bother with the sander but use a cork block and some of the 3M aluminium oxide paper that comes on a roll, expensive but I feel good quality sandpaper makes a big difference.

 

[tcm]

Bosch, B+Decker

Yep, I'm more in favour of bosch if you want to use these sanders in adverse circumstances - and i wd call sanding teak a load morer "adverse" than easy peasy sanding back polyfilla.

However, instead of buying extra sanding blocks i once found that you can buy a cheapy (chinese?) sander incl a load of paper for £9.95

Of course, mirelle is right - the best final finish is always smooth up and doen the grain, never with an orbital sander which leaves a wooly finish - and under varnish will be not at all smooth. Don't fortget to "turn" the grain with a damp cloth a ferw times and sand doen before varnishing!

 

[Kristal]

A lot of people asked me why I wasn't sanding wet when I was doing my topsides, so I'm guessing that's the thing to do next time. It's also almost certain that the poor finish I ended up with was down to my skimping on the sanding when the ancient orbital packed up, as I gave everything a quick rub over with ordinary sandpaper. I have learned my lesson about trying to save money and cramming something like topsides into a week.

Next time I will haul out somewhere I can get staging and use a more heavy-duty tool with wet and dry. As for the winters varnishing, I will still have quite a lot of hand sanding to do, on items I don't want to flat by accident (handrails, toerails etc) and will definitely use wet and dry between coats, as you suggest.

 

[Peterduck]

I have a Bosch delta sander, which I am well pleased with. As well as getting into the little 'Johnny-Horners' it is quite good on medium sized surfaces [eg cockpit coamings, etc] as well. They are more aggressive than an orbital, but not as savage as a belt sander. The Fein company produce a saw blade for theirs which is surprisingly effective, especially in confined spaces [such as abound on a boat!].
Peter.

 

[John_B]

I use a detail sander for some jobs. It has velcro pads. Because of the way they're used ( into corners and along inside joints)you tend to chew out the edges of the paper.What I do is buy some of the triangular shaped pads but also get some standard 4 inch circular velcro pads ( for the random orbital type sanders)and use them. That way you can shift the edge around ,use most of the paper, and have a fresh sanding edge to work with.

 

[DRW]

Ive been using a belt sander, orbital 1/3rd sheet sander, and a small detail sander this year for removal of old paint.

I'm on the second cheap 1/3 sheet sanders and the second cheap detail sander. But as they cost a tenner, come with a wad of paper and are quite likely to fall in the ogin at some point in time I am happy not to invest more money in them. (These cheapies are really not up to the job, but the real stuff is too dear to leave lying around in the sun, rain and temptation)

The paper comes a lot cheaper in bulk from screfix than anywhere locally, and works OK.

But, I am doing this for paint removal and repainting. I have to agree with the others that wet and dry is better for varnishing. It is quite often also quicker for removal of old stuff, just that my hands get tired given the quantity I have been doing on my tod.

 

[joliette]

I have a Black & Decker KA230E which has proved to be excellent for all of the various sanding tasks that I have subjected it to! These have included a complete paint job on my 37ft long keel yacht, which required all over sanding above and below the waterline. All of the bright work - cockpit, hatches, handrails etc. - were all taken back to bare wood. My only criticism is that the diamond shaped point - which is useful for getting into corners and edges - has now worn down and needs to be replaced. This particular sander is known as a 4 in 1 as it has various attachments in addition to the iron shaped pad. These include a small round orbital disk and many shaped attachments which fit onto a special base for detailed work. I think I paid in the region of £65 for it. The papers could be a little cheaper, but they do seem to last quite well. The diamond shaped papers which fit on the tip do wear more rapidly, but then you're supplied with about 4 to each base paper. I wouldn't recommend it for sanding down a teak deck, or for taking the entire planking right back to clean bare wood. A belt sander would be better for that.

 

[trouville]

Ive been looking for a new sander and they just dont exist!!! I still have my festo pro sanders and a half paper hitashi they all have variable speeds

The new ones ive seen are all one speed and expensive for what they are but in euros sound inexpensive 80euros for a bosch which would have cost £29 pre euro.

I made a huge mistake in leaving my old sanders in Sweden! i rented a small storeage place, and thought i would renew my sanders this year!!! i was wrong-so far when i can i will contact "festo" if they still exist "elu" the best have gone!!!

Useing the cheepo ones will make you deaf and accellerate althiemers dieses the vibrations unsurportable!

 

[ccscott49]

I use a Rupes delta orbital type sander, not cheap but repairable and I've had it now for 14 years. Does everything for me. Brilliant machine, I use a vacumn attachement with it, makes the paper last much longer, but it does come with its own small collection bag. I think the B & D mouse is crap, no power and paper lasts minutes. Ihave another Rupes large orbital sander, also 14 years old and going strong! Proffesional tools.