Sailspar Continuous Line Headsail Roller Reefing System

Yes. I like it because it can't get snarled up, and because it is low profile and small, you don't have a big lump on the bow. It rewards some thought on how you manage the after end of the loop, and how you cleat it. I tension mine aft with a floating block on shockcord, and I cleat it in a Spinlock cleat like this, which is mounted on the rail Spinlock PXR Race Cleat

But I am very fussy about drilling holes in my boat. Other people will have other ideas.
Bottom line. Sailspar is good stuff
 
Really happy with mine, I did have an issue with the top swivel not letting me unfurl on my last sail of last year which I think was down to me having the halyard too tight. It's the first time it ever did it.

Like above I have mine running through a clutch rather than a cleat though. If you send them the clutch I'm sure they'll put it on the line before they splice it if that's the way you want to go. Communication was great, delivery was fast, instructions were simple and it looks like it's built like a tank.

My only negative would be it's a single groove, I would love twin groves to have a play with twin headsails downwind but that's not a problem really.

Fitting the Sailspar Furler and First Sail - 2wheels1keel.com

Fitting the Sailspar Furler and First Sail - 2wheels1keel.com
 
gdallas said:
Yes. I like it because it can't get snarled up, and because it is low profile and small, you don't have a big lump on the bow. It rewards some thought on how you manage the after end of the loop, and how you cleat it. I tension mine aft with a floating block on shockcord, and I cleat it in a Spinlock cleat like this, which is mounted on the rail Spinlock PXR Race Cleat

But I am very fussy about drilling holes in my boat. Other people will have other ideas.
Bottom line. Sailspar is good stuff
Click to expand...

I also tension the loop. My running block goes to a cam cleat to keep the whole lot under moderate tension, another cam cleat stops the sail unfurling when reefed.

I also like the system (y)
 
They are excellent - had one on my previous boat, always worked - an improvement I made was to add a clutch on the reefing line, at the time the only one available that you could fit to an endless line was a Rutgerson, which I bought instantly when I saw it being demonstrated by the rep at a local chandlery. Makes reefing much easier. I believe Spinlock make one now.
 
My boat came with it, and I love it. Just three minor caveats:

  1. The splice in the line has gone stiff so I have to make sure when I fit the sail each year that the splice is near the front so that it doesn't ever have to go round the drum when reefing or furling
  2. A previous owner fitted a larger headsail than standard and the drum is really only just big enough. Fitting one size up is on my to-do list. If in doubt, go up a size.
  3. You have to be careful to pull in on the slack side when unfurling or you can end up with a flailing loop, eager to tie itself you anchors, cleats, small children and so on.
 
I fitted one on my UFO 31 about 10 years ago. Have been very pleased with it. It reduces the clutter at the pointy end making anchoring easier and allows the jib tack to be lower. The endless rope did slip twice last year probably because it has become hard and should be changed.
The people at Sailspar were extremely helpful. He even offered to drive to Burnham to help me fit it if I got stuck.
 
Dan Tribe said:
I fitted one on my UFO 31 about 10 years ago. Have been very pleased with it. It reduces the clutter at the pointy end making anchoring easier and allows the jib tack to be lower. The endless rope did slip twice last year probably because it has become hard and should be changed.
The people at Sailspar were extremely helpful. He even offered to drive to Burnham to help me fit it if I got stuck.
Click to expand...
I have found them very helpful. The company went bust a few years back and arose from the ashes ... I hope they can stay arisen. By the way, when I was having some problems with grip I rang them and they recommend Liros braid-on-braid. It turned out that a good clean of the rope sorted the problem.
 
JumbleDuck said:
I have found them very helpful. The company went bust a few years back and arose from the ashes ... I hope they can stay arisen. By the way, when I was having some problems with grip I rang them and they recommend Liros braid-on-braid. It turned out that a good clean of the rope sorted the problem.
Click to expand...
Thanks, I will try giving it a good clean, but I reckon after the service it has given, it's due for retirement, I just need to check the correct diameter and practice end to end splicing.
You don't know if it's going to slip until it does, and it will be breezy.
Everyone seems to speak highly of the service they give.
 
JumbleDuck said:
My boat came with it, and I love it. Just three minor caveats:

  1. The splice in the line has gone stiff so I have to make sure when I fit the sail each year that the splice is near the front so that it doesn't ever have to go round the drum when reefing or furling
  2. A previous owner fitted a larger headsail than standard and the drum is really only just big enough. Fitting one size up is on my to-do list. If in doubt, go up a size.
  3. You have to be careful to pull in on the slack side when unfurling or you can end up with a flailing loop, eager to tie itself you anchors, cleats, small children and so on.
Click to expand...

This is one of the reason for the talk, earlier in the thread, of putting a block in the aft end of the loop. I have a block on a length of line, that pulls the loop aft, keeping moderate tension on the whole furling line.
 
PaulRainbow said:
This is one of the reason for the talk, earlier in the thread, of putting a block in the aft end of the loop. I have a block on a length of line, that pulls the loop aft, keeping moderate tension on the whole furling line.
Click to expand...

I thought of something like that, but doesn't it make it hard to pull the line? Mine is cleated on the outside of the coaming so when it's undone I have give it a jolly good heave from the cockpit. A flat loop along the side deck would be much harder to get a purchase on Of course this could be my boat, my incompetence or a consequence of too small a drum.
 
JumbleDuck said:
I thought of something like that, but doesn't it make it hard to pull the line? Mine is cleated on the outside of the coaming so when it's undone I have give it a jolly good heave from the cockpit. A flat loop along the side deck would be much harder to get a purchase on Of course this could be my boat, my incompetence or a consequence of too small a drum.
Click to expand...

Doesn't seem too hard, but as you say, might not work as well on all boats. My line from the block goes back to the pushpit, through a ring and forward to a cleat on the coaming, next to the furling/reefing cleat. The thinking was, if it did need an extra hard pull, i could release it from the cleat, but not had to do it so far.
 
My boat came with it. Ive got a block at the aft end on a bungee cord and cleat it round a jamming cleat on the cockpit coming. it works fine. No complaints but I've used other systems with no complaints either.
 
PaulRainbow said:
This is one of the reason for the talk, earlier in the thread, of putting a block in the aft end of the loop. I have a block on a length of line, that pulls the loop aft, keeping moderate tension on the whole furling line.
Click to expand...

I had a Sailspar continuous line system fitted to a previous boat. The continuous line furling rope I had pro spliced and I fitted a ball bearing block on elastic at the aft end beside the cockpit.

Lovely thing and I'd happily buy one for my next boat. It needed a clamcleat for holding the genoa part-reefed and made the jib luff a bit black and grubby with the luff foils but I can only proffer good comments about the system. When you service it remember to refit the ball bearings with honey...
 
langstonelayabout said:
I had a Sailspar continuous line system fitted to a previous boat. The continuous line furling rope I had pro spliced and I fitted a ball bearing block on elastic at the aft end beside the cockpit.

Lovely thing and I'd happily buy one for my next boat. It needed a clamcleat for holding the genoa part-reefed and made the jib luff a bit black and grubby with the luff foils but I can only proffer good comments about the system. When you service it remember to refit the ball bearings with honey...
Click to expand...
Honey? Is this a workshop trick I have been missing out on?
 
Dan Tribe said:
Honey? Is this a workshop trick I have been missing out on?
Click to expand...

I'm afraid so. What else would you use to retain the ball bearings after servicing when they want to fall off during reassembly and the manual expressly states that you mustn't use any grease or other lubricant.

The honey will be gone after the first couple of green ones have gone over the front on your first bumpy sail of the season.

Simples :)
 
We fitted a second hand Sailspar on our Shamrock, it was an excellent piece of kit .
I recommend them to customers as a rugged reliable gear
.Oh yes ,refitting the ball bearings honey,or washing up liquid made them stay in position for re assembly .
Rinsing the races out is a good servicing tip.
I’ve come across one so stiff with dirt it was crunchy when rotating .?
 
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