Sailing on the Exe?

[skellyvet]

Hi ALL,

Sorry to bother you - just want some advice. We've done a couple of weeks chartering + day skipper courses, always with the height of our ambition being flotilla/charter abroad. But a recent unexpected move to Topsham near Exeter from the midlands has suddenly brought the prospect of owning a boat to the front of our minds - nothing big just a little 22 ft ish well used boat.

But, my initial enthusiasm was curbed by 1, looking a lot at the estuary and realising that for most of the time there's hardly any water in it (!) 2, looking at the entrance and thinking that you'd only want to enter/leave in benign conditions. We'd hoped to spend a few weekends creek crawling in the estuary before venturing to stick our noses out to sea - but it seems that both may be too ambitious for us, at least with an boat that draws anything more than 0cm. Anyone got a boat down here and got any advice? Am i just being pessimistic?! I'm just seeing more and more reasons why we wouldn't actually get to sail the thing!

Many thanks.
Dan.

 

[john_morris_uk]

We live not a million miles away from you although our boat is on the Tamar.

The Exe is a lot friendlier than it looks. The upper reaches are a bit muddy, but there's lots of water lower down and the entrance just needs a bit of respect. You probably wouldn't want to go sailing anyway when conditions are dangerous at the entrance...
There are several forumites who keep boats locally and I expect they will appear and give you some reassurance as well.

 

[Ecartar]

Hello,

Check out Starcross Sailing Club - http://www.starcrossyc.org.uk/

& Retreat Boatyard.

I am not a member & have no connection with the latter. Used to visit some time ago & have had some very happy times sailing out from the Exe.

Suggest you explore & enjoy.

Regards,

 

[Seagreen]

Been sailing out of the Exe for the last (counts fingers) 27 years, and it has lots to offer.

Short forays over a high tide if your boat is based in Topsham are fine for sailing at the north end of the river, but if you want a full day out, you either need fairly fast hull (5kts or more) to get you off the moorings, out of the river and enjoy a good full day-sail in Lyme Bay over two high tides. If you are based lower down in the river, you can get out, down to Torbay and back over a day easily.

The entrance can be difficult in easterlies on an ebb tide. Above F4, and easterly wind can build up a bit of breaking surf from after 2 hours after high water. The channel out over Pole Sand has also shifted and now turns south.

If you look up Reeds 2008 chartlet, pp189, the channel now swings south and roughly follows the transit of Nos 8 and 9 bouys. The end of the "official" channel that runs out past No 3 bouys has almost silted up and should not be relied on. All the local fishing boats now use the "new channel" and it makes a trip south to torbay a lot quicker anyway. This channel gets very rough is S4 or above, especially towards half tide when the water over Pole sand gets shallow. This all sounds terrifying? 90% of the time, there's nothing to worry about, but if you are trying to get back up river against a foul tide, the ebb can flow up to 4.5 knots if a lot of rain is coming down river.

For instance, it used to take me about 1.25 hours on a young ebb tide from the Retreat to the Fairway, but one night, it took me 4+ hours to get back. Best anchor off Straight Point and wait for the tide. The Marines have a firing range on Straight point and like to scare the fish in the Bay on weekdays. There's always a range boat to chase you off, and the usual warnings are posted, so that's no bother.

Pubs: Fantastic waterside pub at the entrance to the Exeter ship canal, "Turf Hotel". Anchor off and party on. "the Anchor Inn" at Cockwood - busy but easier to get to by road. Lots of space to anchor at the side of the channels provided you don't mind drying out.

The lower part of the river at high water is quite lumpy in a SE blow, but gets quieter after 1/3rd tide when the banks become exposed. Remember that you also need stout mooring gear to deal with occasional "gale against spring ebb tide" which tosses big boats round the mooring chains with ease. A small, bilge keel 22' cruiser is ideal. If you like Beach barbies, dry out on one of the sand banks down the lower river for a few hours.

Random thoughts but I hope this helps.

 

[oldharry]

"But, my initial enthusiasm was curbed by 1, looking a lot at the estuary and realising that for most of the time there's hardly any water in it (!) 2, looking at the entrance and thinking that you'd only want to enter/leave in benign conditions. We'd hoped to spend a few weekends creek crawling in the estuary before venturing to stick our noses out to sea -"

From the land the Exe does seem to shrink quite alarmingly - but many river estuaries do this as the tide drops. Get out there and you will find there is still plenty of water left. You will get acquainted with the mud a few times too till you get the hang of things a bit better - not usually a problem unless you are late for work as a result! You expect to buy a 22fter - take a look round - there a lots of larger boats out there in regular use so you may be able to reach places others cannot go!

Entering and leaving: again most river mouths have a bar which causes problems in strong winds. They all need treating with a bit of respect, but a basic rule of thumb is - if many other people are going out, then it probably is not too bad. Yoo are sensible to be cautious.

Dont under-rate the seaworthiness of a decent 22 footer: given half a chance, it will look after you in all but the most extreme conditions, and it is perfectly possible to go a long way in one - if you can cope with the cramped living quarters for extended times.

Get out there and enjoy: after all if your worst fears are realised and you find you rarely use the thing, you can always sell up, buy a caravan, and join the traffic jams on the M5! /forums/images/graemlins/laugh.gif /forums/images/graemlins/laugh.gif

 

[ericbutt]

Just confirming what others have said, I have a 25ft bilge keeler moored in Powderham Pool (Just to the north of Starcross) and can always find enough water to get in and out of the river, you need to be aware of the currents around Warren point they can get quite strong around the high springs but you can get an idea of the time to avoid by just going and observing by the Exmouth harbour entrance.
Its worth timing your trips to go out on the ebb and return on the flood. I,me sure I'll get comments such as thats obvious but its worth a mention.
It would be worth going along to one or more of the various sailing clubs such as Topsham,Starcross, Exe SC (have to declare interest as am a member of Exe)as I'me sure you'd get plenty of advice there also may be able to get on the river as there is always someone looking for crew especially for the evenig races.
Apologies to Oldharry Post was intended for original poster.

 

[quaymarine]

Hi, I get asked for advice on the area quite frequently although I myself have only been here four or so years. When I arrived I was able to get a guided tour with someone who knew the area and we went out in a small motor boat to see the estuary at low tide. This gives a great insight as to what you are avoiding when the tide is high! Although against common seamanship, exploring when the tide is rising gives some security should you wander out of the channel.

It has to be said that the 'apparent' lack of water preserves the area from too much traffic... and is very rewarding for those who tackle it.

Good luck and enjoy!
Mat Quay Marine Training

 

[amadeus]

Hi Skelly I sail a 27 footer out of Topsham and belong to Topsham Sailing Club. Come along 9ish any Wednesday or Friday night and the bar will be open for a chat. We sail when the tide is high after work and at weekends. On Sundays around high water the dinghies go out. The Club has around 40 cruisers from 20 to 34 foot mostly bilge or lifting keel. The members race or cruise all over the South west, the Channel and further afield. We could show you suitable boats, talk moorings and even give you a ride to show you the sandbanks. Advantages of our lovely tidal muddy estuary are the cheap moorings and the peace and quiet and birdlife. If it was easy to sail here we would be crowded out! Ask for the skipper of Beeline - I am the Vice Commodore.