Sail report: Split, Croatia (LONG POST)

kingfisher

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Dates: 20/5/2005-24/5/2005
Boat: Elan 333
Charter company: PBZ-leasing
Price: 650€, 50€ for outboard engine
Cost of flight Brussels-Split: 350€
Transfer to-from airport: 5-13€

Route:
route.jpg


20/5/2005
We arrived in Split one hour and a half late; due to a late flight by Croatian Airlines. The charter company had arranged transport to the ACI marina in Split. There is a good bus connection to Split centre, but I knew we would be arriving late, so I didn’t want the hassle of lugging suitcases across the river front.
We arrived at the marina at midnight, so everything was closed. The security guard managed to point us to the harbour master’s office, where the student on duty was busy watching TV. After a bit of explaining, with us looking ever more desperate for a place to sleep, the duty officer finally pointed us to pontoon E, where all the boats of PBZ could be found. Our boat, the smallest of the fleet, was easily found. The charter company said that they would leave the key. After 20 mins rummaging in lockers I stopped for a thought. Where would I leave the key? After getting the key from the winch handle pot, we quickly tucked in.
We got an introduction to the Bora right away, as the wind was howling through the shrouds until we fell asleep.

21/5/2005 Split-Stari Grad
In the morning we finally met the people from PBZ. After a very cursory hand over – they didn’t even count the pottery- we went for shopping and a two hour walk in Split. We left port at 1400.
As usual, the first casualty of war is the passage plan. We wanted to go to Solta, but a headwind changed that. This was a holiday cruise, not a channel slog. We pointed as high as comfortably possible, and noticed that we could just make the channel between Brac and Solta. Hvar it is then. After 4 hours of delightful cruising, changing from a sporty reach to a sunny run, we dropped anchor in the bay of Stari Grad (043°14.67N, 016°34.98E). The scenery was spectacular, the anchorage deserted.
As Branko and other local forumites had put the fear of the devil in me with their talk of the mighty Bora, I planned on using the TCM anchoring technique of using a bow and stern anchor, with the main anchor let out in northerly direction, in case of a Bora, the secondary to the south.
I didn’t sleep much that night, as my trusted Magellan h/h GPS by the bedside kept bleeping the anchor alarm every two hours. Every time I popped my head out, it was clearly a false alarm. By 5am I was to tired to care. Does anyone ever sleep while they are at anchor? Yes I can sleep at anchor if:
a) it is on my boat, with my tackle; and
b) it is the second night and I already know from the previous night that the anchor holds its ground.

22/5/2005 Stari Grad-Palmizana
My theory has always been that you should anchor in the secluded bay until after sunset, then move into the marina. And move out the following morning at sunrise, so as to enjoy the breakfast and morning swim in same said bay. If only I could sleep the sleep of the unknowing. Does anyone know how many charter boats actually end up on the rocks every year?
Either way, after a refreshing swim, we headed off. Which reminds me: the best time to go sailing in the med/Adriatic/egeian is in September. The weather will be pleasant, while the water temperature is still in the high 20’s. Now, the Raymarine depth sounder read 19,6°C
After the swim, we went round the island of Hvar counterclockwise until we arrived at the town of Hvar. As promised by the tourist guides, it is stunningly beautiful. To call view from the old castle, after a scented ascend through the botanical garden, “picturesque” is quite an understatement

hvar.jpg

Beautiful Hvar

After spending a few hours in Hvar, we went for a leisurely crossing to the isle of St Klement, where we anchored in the bay of Palmizana (043°09.79; 016°23.86). There is a small marina in the same bay, but again SWMBO preferred to anchor. After the anchoring manoeuvre, the meal at Dagmar Meneghello and the zodiac run back to the boat, I was too tired to care about dragging anchors and fell asleep quite quickly. Again didn’t sleep well, as I ate too much of the gregada, the local fish stew (thx again to Branko). The little marina was full of Germans, the restaurant was filled by Canadians. Go figure.

23/5/2005 Palmizana-Milna
Again, despite my fears, I was relieved to find that the boat hadn’t thrown itself against the rocks during the night. We moved out before breakfast, as the wind had picked up, and the anchorage had become a wind hole. The good news what the wind had turned south, as predicted. Strange how they can manage to get the weather right here in Split, but in Belgium they can’t predict frost when the temperature drops below zero. Running before the wind with just the genoa, we headed for the bay of Grohota, on Solta for a bit of sleep. It’s amazing what midday’s nap can do. Refreshed and rested, we left a glorious sunset behind us to head for Milna. Milna is hidden deep inside a cove, so in flat calm conditions, as you round the last corner, you are met by yet another splendid little town. I’m starting to like Dalmatia. With the prospect of a solid night sleep, I follow the harbour official’s instructions and moor next to another boat. While we are enjoying the scenery over a glass of wine, suddenly we realise why this space was still available: it is right in front of the Milna town church.
Order the fish of the day at Fontana. I need not say more.

milna.jpg

the Theodora on the left

24/5/2005 Milna-Split
Suffice it to say we were awoken at 0500 by the bells. The bells. The bells.
But it was not the shower that provided the instant wake up kick, neither the delightfull capuchino at the Fontana. Rather the 35€ marina fee for the night provided the eye-opening moment of the morning. The marina in Milna, like the one in Palmizana and Split, is run by ACI. I bet they had their business plan developed by a certain UK marina developer. We left Milna, and took a quick right, to drop anchor in the bay just north of Milna creek. Next time, we’ll stay overnight there. After lunch and a swim we headed back to Split. We were able to finish off the trip with a big grin reach. Unfortunately the wind kept increasing, which made the landing at the refuel pontoon a bit hairy, and the mooring impossible, so I parked it bows-to, leaving the repositioning to the charter hands. I made it so far, I wasn’t going to risk my deposit at this late stage.
Check out went without a hitch, and after a last minute rushe, we barely made it to the bus for the airport

On med mooring
I ad previously experienced med-mooring, and again this time I didn’t find the technique that difficult. As long as you have another boat to lean into, I do not see the difficulty in the manoeuvre. Having said that, I never ad te pleasure of considering a four point moor when I was the first or only boat there. Pray that I’m not faced with the situation in the future

On the boat
I specifically looked for chartering and ELAN, as I have had my hands on most BenBavJens and I was interested in the ELAN range. I own a Sirocco 31, an Angus Primrose designed halftonner. It was built in 1973, when boats were still boats and not floating caravans. As floating caravans go, the Elan 333 was the perfect example. Hot and cold running water in a 10 meter package. She behaved well in port, she even hove-to nicely. What I didn’t like was when she was mildly over pressed (everything up in an close-hauled F3-4), she broached on me! Basically that was the end of even the little love I had for the boat. Boats that break out their rudder on me don’t deserve a moment of my attention.
And horror of horrors: she had an in-mast roll reefed mainsail. The sails was new, so at least I could keep the shape under control. More or less. Sing a song of praise as much as you like, but my preconceptions were confirmed again, as halfway through the trip the clew of the mainsail came lose, and I had to wriggle two fingers through an inspection hatch to reattach it. BTW: all those inspection points can’t be good for the structural integrity of the mast? Also, you had to operate the roll reef at the mast, so what the whole point of the system is, I don’t know. I love roll reefing of the genua, I wish I had one on my boat. But slab reefing is the only way to control a mainsail, period.
When in Milna, I saw a HR94 for sale. 50.000€ for a boat that is not a caravan.
Some things others might consider details, such as the only flashlight on board being nearly flat. But I do believe that a defective steam and anchor light could hardly be considered details.
I am being very critical here, the sailing bits were all in good working order. And aside from the engine that wouldn’t start unless everything else was turned off, the boat was a great floating holiday home.
 

branko

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Super report! Thanks. I am glad that Gregada was good. I forgot to tell you for church bells in Milna. They start to "work" at 5 a.m. and I always ask myself WHY ?as people on Brac are not famous as hard workers!
Anchoring: In 80% situations you have light night NE breeze so those are the perfect conditions for good sleeping - if you take stern rope to shore with one stern spring too. In Starigrad anchoring is problematical as bottom is stone plate.
 

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