Sail bag

mrangry

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I have bought a lightly used sail pak lazy jack bag to replace the one on my boat which is threadbare. The problem I have is, that the mainsail has a boltrope threaded into the slot on the top of the boom and the bag appears to have toggles which also seem to slot into this same track. The slot on the boom is a snuggish fit with the mainsail boltrope as it is so I will have to find another way of securing the bag. Has anyone ever came across this and offer ant other way of securing the bag?
 

dunedin

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Either convert your mainsail to loose footed or convert the stackpack to fit round the sail boltrope - in this case need to sew in a narrow strip of thin but strong material which can fit round the bolt rope within the boom slot.
i see you are based in the Clyde so contact Greg at Saturn Sails in Largs. A quick job for a sailmaker, but a pain DIY.
 

dansaskip

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Even if your main has a bolt rope you can still rig it loose footed and as others have said makes no difference and arguably a better way to rig the main anyway. Give it a try, involves no expense.
 

lustyd

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I have bought a lightly used sail pak lazy jack bag to replace the one on my boat which is threadbare. The problem I have is, that the mainsail has a boltrope threaded into the slot on the top of the boom and the bag appears to have toggles which also seem to slot into this same track. The slot on the boom is a snuggish fit with the mainsail boltrope as it is so I will have to find another way of securing the bag. Has anyone ever came across this and offer ant other way of securing the bag?
You need to cut the bag at the bottom and sew in a section of this edging tape which then slides under the bolt rope. I just made a sail bag with this and it works a treat. When installing you can pull the sail on first and this slides in underneath. Because this is 100mm wide you'll end up with about 80mm width so cutting the toggle section out isn't an issue for fit.
6.0oz Sailcloth / Dacron Edging Tape
 

mrangry

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You need to cut the bag at the bottom and sew in a section of this edging tape which then slides under the bolt rope. I just made a sail bag with this and it works a treat. When installing you can pull the sail on first and this slides in underneath. Because this is 100mm wide you'll end up with about 80mm width so cutting the toggle section out isn't an issue for fit.
6.0oz Sailcloth / Dacron Edging Tape
The bag is open at the bottom with webbing strips joining the bottom of the bag at intervals. On each webbing strip is a rounded toggle which is supposed to slot into the groove on the boom. I could try and remove the toggles and try sliding the webbing strips under the boltrope but think it may be too tight. The bag is currently on the boat so cant show any pictures just now
 

lustyd

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In that case even better. Remove the webbing and sew in a strip of edging tape and you're done. This is how professional bags are made for bolt rope mains. The question is, is your webbing gap less than 100mm? Otherwise the bag may get smaller as you pull it in.
 

lustyd

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Make sure you account for any reefing lines tied around the boom, you need to leave a gap in the right place for them. Gaps can be pretty wide without causing issues.
 

Daydream believer

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May sound daft ... but can the sail-bag be installed so boom is INSIDE the bag ? Ends of the bag fastened at mast and outer end. The lazy-jacks holding it up ?
Yup. daft idea :cry: 🤣
Seriously the sail bag would need support along its length & it would also need cutouts for the reefs , vang & mainsheet.It would need battens near the top edge. Probably more hassle than its worth.
I believe the idea suggested by Graham 376-- #4-- is the way to go, using caravan awning track, pop riveted each side of the boom. I have that & it works. (It does not cause any extra danger to anyone wanting to head butt the boom by the way!!)Still needs reef cut outs & a separate cover for the junction around the mast though. It will need bolt ropes placed in the cover. I have a full length batten 150mm from the top edge of each half of the cover to stop it drooping down. That leaves a pairof flaps for the zip to be located & applied. The lazy jacks attach to the batten ( actually quite close to it) The Op needs to factor this in & the whole lot will be almost as expensive as the proper thing made from the correct cloth to fit the sail & boom with the correct width at the mast & at the clew.
 

Refueler

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Yup. daft idea :cry: 🤣
Seriously the sail bag would need support along its length & it would also need cutouts for the reefs , vang & mainsheet.It would need battens near the top edge. Probably more hassle than its worth.

OP says its an open bottom bag with webbing straps ... so why would he need to cut it for vang etc.

Also I expect the bag is supported by the lazy-jacks so why need a batten along top ?

Once the fwd and aft ends are made fast - what's problem ??

I would certainly be looking for simple answer before cutting / modifying the bag .... adding awning tracks along boom etc.
 

Daydream believer

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OP says its an open bottom bag with webbing straps ... so why would he need to cut it for vang etc.Also I expect the bag is supported by the lazy-jacks so why need a batten along top ?

OP does not mention webbing straps, but toggles. I will not enter into discussion with you on that one, as I am not sure what is meant. You may well have a point & I have missunderstood. I can only see them working with a loose fitted mainsail
But re the battens
As a norm the lazy jacks do not go right to the end of the boom. If they do they are more likely to foul the leech of the sail on the hoist. Then it sometimes involves adjustment of the up haul on the lines to pull them forward. that sort of defeats the object. ( I just luff to windward, but some do not like this manouver) So lazy jacks work best if they do not come past 60% length of the boom. That means that the cover extends past the last jack line. So it immediately wants to flop down on the crew's head when the boom comes over the centre of the boat. To avoid this a fibreglass batten along the cover holds that end up. It also holds the attachment points of the lazy jacks apart & stops them trying to squeeze the cover towards the mast ( Bear in mind that whilst the pull is upwards it is also forwards.)
Every boat is different & you may have a different experience. So to you, I can accept that it may not be an issue.
 
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Tranona

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The bag is open at the bottom with webbing strips joining the bottom of the bag at intervals. On each webbing strip is a rounded toggle which is supposed to slot into the groove on the boom. I could try and remove the toggles and try sliding the webbing strips under the boltrope but think it may be too tight. The bag is currently on the boat so cant show any pictures just now
That is how mine is made. It is for a loose footed sail. Probably better to have the sail modified rather than the stackpack. Better arrangement all round.
 

Tranona

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OP says its an open bottom bag with webbing straps ... so why would he need to cut it for vang etc.

Also I expect the bag is supported by the lazy-jacks so why need a batten along top ?

Once the fwd and aft ends are made fast - what's problem ??

I would certainly be looking for simple answer before cutting / modifying the bag .... adding awning tracks along boom etc.
Essential to have battens, otherwise the lazyjacks don't pull evenly and it looks like a sack.

The stackpack he has is a pretty normal design and construction - just not made for his boat. Easiest way to use it is to modify the sail.
 

mrangry

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I had a horrible feeling this would have me shopping for a new mainsail. The sail whilst still serviceable is nearing its end of life I think possibly not worth having modified to loose footed but will have a sailmaker take a look.
 

dunedin

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I had a horrible feeling this would have me shopping for a new mainsail. The sail whilst still serviceable is nearing its end of life I think possibly not worth having modified to loose footed but will have a sailmaker take a look.
Don’t see why should need a new sail - unless you want one.

Changing the straps and sliders for a bit of thin cloth or the appropriate width should have you up and running simply and cheaply. It is the standard solution for bolt rope mainsails and stack packs.

But as noted, speak to the local expert - Greg at Saturn.
 

Tranona

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Don’t see why should need a new sail - unless you want one.

Changing the straps and sliders for a bit of thin cloth or the appropriate width should have you up and running simply and cheaply. It is the standard solution for bolt rope mainsails and stack packs.

But as noted, speak to the local expert - Greg at Saturn.
That is OK if there is no need for any cutouts for reefing lines, but a lot of extra work to if they are needed. That is one of the benefits of having the webbing and slides, they can be located to provide for reefing lines.
 

dunedin

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That is OK if there is no need for any cutouts for reefing lines, but a lot of extra work to if they are needed. That is one of the benefits of having the webbing and slides, they can be located to provide for reefing lines.
We had gaps for three reef lines with that system, no problem. Trivial alterations for a competent sailmaker.
 
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