rwift 18

[shrek]

I have recently purchased a Swift 18 and would be grateful if anyone has any old manuals / leaflets with reference to rigging and stepping and lowering the mast as we would like to trail sail on waters such as the Erne / Shannon waterway which has quite a few low bridges. Also any details on the rudder uphaul etc., would be helpful. Thanks John.

 

[sancho]

Please see your private post.

 

[lindes]

I am also looking for the mast raising/lowering device to use on a Swift 18 on the Erne/Shannon waterway

JohnM

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[Rikmag]

I too am searching for info on mast lowering

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[floatything]

Me too - however these might help...

http://home.att.net/~seagypsy2/trailer/trailer_II.html
(you'll need to scroll down a bit to the mast raising bit)

Regards




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[oldharry]

I have never done it with a Swift 18, but the general principals apply to any boat. Firstly, life is much easier if the mast is mounted on a tabernacle, rather then sitting in a socket, or hinged on a pin. It is well worth considering changing it to a tabernacle, as this allows the mast to move safely.

The safe way is to arrange an 'A' frame hinged in line with the base of the mast and lying with its apex to the bows. On the Swift it is quite in order to use the jib halliard (check the bloacks and fastenings are in good order first!). Secure a line from the apex of the frame to the boat - this will be the control line for raising and lowering the mast. Next, secure the jib haliard to the same point on the frame. Make sure all is secure. Slacken the main shrouds slightly so the tension is off, but still providing some support.

Lowering can be done single handed (I have done it many times) but is much safer and easier with two. One stands behind the mast steadying it as it comes down, while the other casts off the forestay, and using the control line gently allows the mast to come down.

It is helpful to have some sort of support to catch the mast at the stern - which should be at about the balance point of the horizontal mast..

Once the mast is on its support, the control line man can come aft and assist with securing it, if necessary lowering it below the support for those low bridges!

Raising is a reverse. The load on the control line will initially be quite hevy while the mast is horizontal, and the steady man may need to provide extra lift to start off. As the mast rises watch VERY carefully that the rigging screws remain in line with the wire and the chain plates. If they catch, they bend surprisingly easily, and are ruined. It takes no effort at all by the line man to write off a bottle screw!

If space allows, the control line man shoould be about a boats length ahead of the bows for even better control - but it can be done quite easily from the foredeck. I quite often use the mooring cleat to take a turn on the control line. This means when single handing a small mast I can move around a bit if necessary. Sometimes for example the mast is reluctant to drop back from the vertical initially, and needs a bit of help to start

Also watch that rigging is not catching anywhere, and that there are no kinks in the rigging wires - stainless wire will not tolerate being kinked - and again its surprisingly easy!

Practice the operation a couple of times ashore on the trailer, or aground, and you will find it is dead easy. People are raising and lowering much heavier longer masts than yours safely using this technique. If there are enough people around, use the topping lift and main halyard each side to steady the mast, particularly afloat or in strong winds as it comes down or up.

It can be done without a tabernacle, but care needs to be taken to ensure that the foot of the mast is secure as it comes down, and that any pin or hinge is not strained sideways by the mast swinging around.

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