Rusty anchor chain

Zhivili

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7 May 2002
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I wonder how many are concerned re. their anchor chain. We have 30 metres of 8mm chain and 30 metres of anchor plait. The chain has got to be 20 years old and is very heavily rusty. Is it really likely to break ? We are tempted to replace it, but you are looking at the best part of a couple hundred pounds. It leave a lot of rust marks on deck, but is the answer just a thick pair of rubber gloves and a good scrub down every time we anchor. Or is it best advised that we should replace the chain. The question is is it likely for the chain to break, just because it looks pretty rusty ? Anyones thoughts would be appreciated. /forums/images/graemlins/ooo.gif /forums/images/graemlins/smirk.gif
 
My advice, since you have start worrying about a safety feature get a new one. The cost of a new chain is MUCH lower than the cost of the boat (or even an injury).
 
It is not as expensive as you think.

Recently had a quote from EYE co
30mts grade 30 8x24mm Galvanised chain @ £2.55 per mtr inc vat
20mts 14mm Multiplait Nylon @ £1.55 per mtr inc vat
1 x 12kg Plough Anchor @ £28.75 inc vat
1 x S/S Anchor Swivel @ £16.95 inc vat
1 x Rope to chain splice @ £10.00 inc vat

Total inc vat = £134.45

If you don't need the anchor swivel and can do the rope to chain splice you won't have to pay much over £100. New chain will help you sleep better at anchor!
 
I would clean all the rust off by pulling it behind your can along a dirt road for a mile or two and then inspect it link by link. You may find some links rusted more than others. It may be possible to just cut out the bad links and rejoin the chain.

I would then check the cost of re galvanizing the remaining chain.
 
Clean it off and measure a few links at random.
For 8mm chain tmin should be 7.04mm i.e. -12%
Well thats what the class, i.e LRS/DNV consider the minimum for ships chain.
Normally the worst wear will be at the end next to the anchor or both ends if the chain has been turned.
 
I did not say how to join the chain. I have joined lots of chain by welding in new links.

I have also used the so called "hammered together links" but always welded the links together to get the maximum strength from the link.

If the chain is rusty as he says welding will not make the "galvanizing" any worse.
 
Can you post details of the Brum company that galvanises old chain please? Mine also leaves mess on the decks and I'd like to get it galvanised again. Mine is Lowfrans 8mm calibrated chain.

BTW - I cleaned mine and Hammerite dipped it as a stop gap, got it really clean by borrowing an electric mixer, chucking the lot it with a bucket of water and letting it turn for 30 minutes, came out quite clean ready for the paint dip. However, paint, even Hammerite, is not a solution that lasts and as mine clatters over the gypsy flakes of silver Hammerite go everywhere.
 
We found that our chain was getting a bit rusty after 8 seasons, but it was only the first 2 or 3 metres from the anchor affected so we reversed the chain as a temporary measure for a few years until we can be bothered to buy new.
 
Arkinstall did a good job on my 8mm chain (40m) for about fifty quid. This included removing the old plating. Getting the chain there and back is the main problem.
Brum based, ring: 0121 643 6455.
Sadly the process cannot deal with chain that has been painted, but they may be able to give you a quote for an additional pickle and clean.
 
Fertan is the stuff you need. Highly efficient rust converter used by industry and the Navy. It will turn the metal black or dark brown but should withstand the hurly burly of the windlass. As suggested I would check the chain carefully before you do anything. Any signs of wasted links or other deterioration would point towards dumping it and buying a new length. Re: galvanising, if you go that route check that the galvaniser can handle the weight of chain. My usual guy in Great Yarmouth has a load limit on his "spin dryer." Also, if buying chain, I would recommend EyE, another great East Coast service!
 
Get it re-galvanised. It does need to be an active/ rolling type process tho' or you will end up with a solid lump of chain that needs a sledgehammer to separate the links out & leaves big chunks of galvanising missing.
 
Obviously, if you think that there is significant rust or wear, bin it and get new chain. It could save your life.
 
If you have any doubt about the chain - and you certainly appear to - then change it for your own peace of mind if for no other reason.

You don't necessarily have to bin the old chain. Would it do for a second anchor on your boat? Or would someone else be able to use it (and be prepared to buy it from you)?
 
[ QUOTE ]
My usual guy in Great Yarmouth has a load limit on his "spin dryer."

[/ QUOTE ]Can you give a link for this guy ? Ta.
 
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