Rust remover gel

Oxalic acid will remove rust stains from GRP. Spotless Stainless is very good for removing rust from stainless. If you want to remove rust from mild steel, use vinegar.
 
Interesting not seen it before but if it does work it would be good.

I use Hydrochloric acid followed up with a wash then phosphoric acid.

Most of my rust spots are on my deck so a gel is less important but I do need to use some on an inclined surface and considered using wall paper paste or other thickening agent like flour. Molasses could be a possibility.

If you go get some of the Shield stuff pls post the results.
 
Bobc said:
Oxalic acid will remove rust stains from GRP. Spotless Stainless is very good for removing rust from stainless. If you want to remove rust from mild steel, use vinegar.
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IMHO these acids are not strong enough for derusting mild steel effectively.
 
Bobc said:
Oxalic acid will remove rust stains from GRP. Spotless Stainless is very good for removing rust from stainless. If you want to remove rust from mild steel, use vinegar.
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Thank you, I wish to avoid liquid in case it drains down to an even more awkward spot!

ATB,

John G
 
Rogershaw said:
IMHO these acids are not strong enough for derusting mild steel effectively.
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I'd agree, but OP doesn't say what he's de-rusting.

I use oxalic on stainless, GRP, in fact just about everything and have in the past successfully mixed in some wallpaper paste to get it to stay in awkward/hanging spots; don't leave it long enough to go dry though as it's then a bugger to get off again.
 
The spots are in the bilge & the Shield product is water based & therefore, allegedly, safe: how it compares with acid is partly the reason for my question as well as hoping that someone would say that they've used it & it's bloody marvelous.

ATB,

John G
 
BobnLesley said:
I'd agree, but OP doesn't say what he's de-rusting.

I use oxalic on stainless, GRP, in fact just about everything and have in the past successfully mixed in some wallpaper paste to get it to stay in awkward/hanging spots; don't leave it long enough to go dry though as it's then a bugger to get off again.
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Well the title is " Rust Removal " and IMHO that the sale as de-rusting but that just semantics.

Oxalic acid is good for removing rust stains from most materials that do not create rust.
The one problem using any acid including oxalic acid on stainless steel is with repeated application it tends to remove the shine. We always use a light abrasive cream like car body cutting cream , Brasso will also do. Best of cause is the correct stainless steel polishing soap and a calico mop in an angle grinder.

IMGP2577_zps67392154.jpg
 
Jegs said:
The spots are in the bilge & the Shield product is water based & therefore, allegedly, safe: how it compares with acid is partly the reason for my question as well as hoping that someone would say that they've used it & it's bloody marvelous.

ATB,

John G
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Are you removing rust from steel of rust stains from the GRP in your bilge ?
 
Jegs said:
The spots are in the bilge & the Shield product is water based & therefore, allegedly, safe: how it compares with acid is partly the reason for my question as well as hoping that someone would say that they've used it & it's bloody marvelous.

ATB,

John G
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If the rust stains are in the bilge, why not clean up and apply another coat of Danboline paint.
 
Jegs said:
No, it's a steel boat, sorry should have made it clear.

ATB,

John G
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OK I also have a steel boat so have some of the same issues.

After using hydrochloric acid I always wash with fresh water to neutralise the hydrochloric acid the resulting clean steel will flash rust so I repeat the application with phosphoric acid and allow to dry once the steel is clean. the paint with several coats of you chosen paint.
 
I've never been a fan of them as people think it's a miracle cure and they are always disappointed. But there are situations where you can't grind or buff it away completely then hammerite rust removal gel is the best one I have found. I spend far too much of my time chasing rust
 
I have used similar stuff from Bilt-Hamber, great stuff.

My advice would be: Allow plenty of time. Put plenty on. Use a brush to agitate it every so often (nail brush is good). Leave it on for as long as possible. In your case it may be a good idea when comes the time to remove it, to use old rags or paper towels to get as much off as possible before washing off with plenty of water. Should now see shiny metal. If you see some shiny and some rusty metal, more time needed. Dry and prime asap.
Oh, it's messy, wear gloves or it'll stain your skin.

I have also used it in solution to soak bits over night. Excellent stuff but the important ingredient is time and that depends on the amount of rust you're trying to shift.

Good luck.
 
Many thanks for all the contributions; I shall probably try the Shield &, if so, report back in the summer.

ATB,

John G
 
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