Rust Problem

[mikewilkes]

Under my cat's bridgedeck I have two x pieces of channel welded on - but probably not completely. The result is that this has had water in it and leaves a mark out of the drain hole we drilled.
Any suggestions as to how to get rid of the rust? Rewelding completely is not really an option.
Would it be possible to drill some more holes and use something like Kurust (Hammerite) or maybe Zeebart type stuff if its still made?
When the rust is " neutralised" would it then be possible, through these extra holes to injet closed cell foam and seal the holes with plastic steel.
I am open to any thoughts to try to get rid of the problem - but not sell and buy plastic!

<hr width=100% size=1>

 

[richardandtracy]

Not quite sure I fully understand the problem.

If the channels are welded to give a moderate sized void then drill into the void and spray with Waxoyl car underseal. I think this would slow down the corrosion rate to an acceptable level rather than prevent it.
If the problem is an area of lap joint between the channel flange/web & other plating, then I fear your problem is almost incurable. The best thing to do would be to spray as much ordinary waxoyl into the joint as you can manage and be prepared to re-apply on a regular basis.

An alternative is to paint the area with rust coloured paint and ignore it thereafter!

Regards

Richard.


<hr width=100% size=1>

 

[ZuidWester]

Vactan

How about attacking it with Vactan? It cures the rust. Don't know how you can get it in contact with all the rust though...

Call 0870 7700530 for details.


<hr width=100% size=1>

 

[mikewilkes]

The " U " shaped channel is about 1 1/2" on the 3 sides. So the waxoyl type thing may work.
Not sure about the " rust" coloured paint though!!

<hr width=100% size=1>

 

[tcm]

spose the u-channel should be tother way up?

anyway, since it ain't, can you dril from above? countersinking the drain hole and praps making more holes wd ensure drainage. If the drain hole has been drilled from below, then the breakthru wil cause a lip, and water won't drain.

definitely don't fill rustprone holes with foam, which will hold damp and make the rust impossible to remove another time. Oxalic acid is another cheapy rust remover.

<hr width=100% size=1>

 

[mikewilkes]

The top of the channel has been welded to the bridgedeck, and in some places more tacked than fully. Cant really drill from the top but see what you mean about the " break through" lip.

<hr width=100% size=1>

 

[mikewilkes]

Quick question is Waxoyl a thick tar like substance - I seem to remember Ziebart was - or is it thin and oily.

<hr width=100% size=1>

 

[Gordonmc]

Waxoyl is a syruppy gloop which turns runny when warmed, enough to be sprayed either with a hand-held gun or a pressure stirrup pump.
It was designed to go into car box-sections, such as chassis tube or U forms and into enclosed areas like door skins. Best results are from dunking the waxoyl can into a bucket of hot water. Use extension tubes which can be poked into the section holes to get a good even spray over the interior surfaces.
When it cools, the gloop goes back to a syrup, then in time a waxy coating. Be warned, the evaporant is white spirit so don't heat with an open flame or smoke while spraying.
Don't get black waxoyl. Its just car underbody stuff with waxoyl as an ingredient to stop drying out. It won't spray.
I have no association with Finnigans, the makers. I became a convert when restoring classic motors.

<hr width=100% size=1>

 

[mikewilkes]

Thanks for that.
I looked up the other stuff, Vactan, and from the website it looks as though that could be good for initially getting rid of some rust. Works in a damp area too.

<hr width=100% size=1>

 

[tritonofnor]

you could also try Fertan. Used it to "paint" a disused lighthouse "feature" here at the marina last year and it's cured all my rust trouble.

<hr width=100% size=1>Marina skips - the greatest free resource centre!

 

[richardandtracy]

Can I disagree. The black waxoyl can be sprayed - I've done it with the equipment garages use to spray underseal (borrowed from a neighbour). It certainly doesn't spray so easily, but it sticks and is more difficult to get off.

Regards

Richard.

<hr width=100% size=1>

 

[aitchw]

If you can't dry it out completely then neither the waxyoil or the underbody sealer will adhere properly. Do not under any circumstances use the underseal. It will form a skin which will trap any moisture and make the situation worse.

If the steelwork is in an enclosed space which could be filled I would use stannic acid and fill the box, let it stand for a day and then drain out. The acid will react with the rust to produce a black surface which is nearly as resistant to further corrosion as galvanising but not as tough. Stannic acid is not very strong and is pretty harmless. It is used in industry for neutralising rust.

I would have to contact someone at the engineering company I used to work for to get a suppliers name but a search on Google should come up trumps.

BTW, I too am a fan of waxyoil but srfaces do need to be dry for effectiveness.

Howard

<hr width=100% size=1>