Rust in bilges - owatrol oil or por 15?

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Sooshark

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Both brilliant products. I have a small area of rust along one of my seams on the inside of the hull. Can’t decide which product I should use on it, any opinions ? I’ve done the entirety of my bilges in por 15 and think it is very good, but there’s some thing worrying about locking in the rust.. I feel owatrol oil seeps in better... thoughts ?
 
KellysEye said:
The problem is rust inhibiitors don't work as I found out on our steel boat. The only way to stop rust coming back is to sand blast it and paint it with Zinc rich epoxy. There are small blasters made for yachts here is an example: https://www.machinemart.co.uk/p/cla...KoNK-5QIVh7PtCh3NKQjZEAQYAiABEgLTdfD_BwEaterd
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True, long term this is ideal but not possible in the short term. In the mean time one of these v expensive rust inhibitors will have to do.

How messy is this mini blaster?
Read more at http://www.ybw.com/forums/showthrea...ges-owatrol-oil-or-por-15#KGekT1yuEq2gkowf.99
 
Sooshark said:
I don't mind paying for quality products, in my experience of using rust converting acid, it's v temporary.
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I've had some bits as good as when they were done over ten years ago. Washing a few times after the acid seems to help, then blowtorch to blow off any remaining water before painting that vital first coat.
Either paint over rust or more stable iron phosphate, what looks perfectly shiny clean steel will pop and fizz in the tropics when the steel is hot and the acid reacts with rust you think isn't there. That was with amerlok sealer as first coat which is difficult to find in Europe now, not had any luck but amazing stuff. Tried por15, forget it. Wouldn't touch it again. Owatrol oil can be handy for short term dings but 2 part epoxy for anything long term.
And as yiu no doubt know, bilges should be bone dry, I've been caught out with some condensation sitting over stringers.
 
Having spent well over a year now trying to turn my rusted piece of junk into something, all the bilges have been needle gunned to death, for which you need a large output compressor and then hydrochloric acid and then phosphoric acid all washed and rinsed copiously ,heat gun to dry everything and then epoxy. All decks have been spot blasted with an SC enginering blaster, i ended up using crushed glass as it was the most inert and least dirty. Even so the mess is intolerable grit and dust everywhere and still works its way inside when you are outside. I have decided to use a product called Fluid film on internal areas that i cannot clean back to bare metal.
 
GHA said:
I've had some bits as good as when they were done over ten years ago. Washing a few times after the acid seems to help, then blowtorch to blow off any remaining water before painting that vital first coat.
Either paint over rust or more stable iron phosphate, what looks perfectly shiny clean steel will pop and fizz in the tropics when the steel is hot and the acid reacts with rust you think isn't there. That was with amerlok sealer as first coat which is difficult to find in Europe now, not had any luck but amazing stuff. Tried por15, forget it. Wouldn't touch it again. Owatrol oil can be handy for short term dings but 2 part epoxy for anything long term.
And as yiu no doubt know, bilges should be bone dry, I've been caught out with some condensation sitting over stringers.
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Hmmmm I've just done under my fuel tank with por 15, such a pain to get under there I don't want to have to do it again in the next 5 years!! (plus there's no way of knowing what's going on..). - ah! Reckon I should sand all that off an epoxy?
 
Sooshark said:
Hmmmm I've just done under my fuel tank with por 15, such a pain to get under there I don't want to have to do it again in the next 5 years!! (plus there's no way of knowing what's going on..). - ah! Reckon I should sand all that off an epoxy?
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When i tried it, even where the prep was pretty good it didn't last too well, eventually came off in sheets. Can't remember how long though. Amerlok sealer was great, takes a coiple of days to really go off so soaks into every little pore and nook and cranny. No idea where to get it now though, think ameron were bought out by ppg. Promain used to do it, maybe they would know if a similar product is around.
https://www.promain.co.uk/
 
I use Vactan or Fertan on the bits of rust I can get to. This as a basis for painting later but to be honest I haven't for a few years. For inaccessible rust I use Fluid Film which is Lanolin based. It appears to never dry and has the ability to creep. Fluid Film is not cheap but has proved itself over an over again.
 
lonederanger said:
Having spent well over a year now trying to turn my rusted piece of junk into something, all the bilges have been needle gunned to death, for which you need a large output compressor and then hydrochloric acid and then phosphoric acid all washed and rinsed copiously ,heat gun to dry everything and then epoxy. All decks have been spot blasted with an SC enginering blaster, i ended up using crushed glass as it was the most inert and least dirty. Even so the mess is intolerable grit and dust everywhere and still works its way inside when you are outside. I have decided to use a product called Fluid film on internal areas that i cannot clean back to bare metal.
Click to expand...

This is exactly my approach to rust removal and protection.

The problem with most/all rust converters is that don't get to all the rust and so some is left active. This then starts the rusting all over again.
 
Sooshark said:
I don't mind paying for quality products, in my experience of using rust converting acid, it's v temporary.
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I thought the op was looking to remove rust stains, in which case oxalic acid is perfect, but if it’s to deal with rusty metal, then it’s pretty useless. I’m now not sure exactly what he wants to do.
 
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