running the lines aft

tgalea

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Hi all,

I am looking into running most of the useful lines from the mast to the cockpit but am at a bit of of a loss since my mast which is deck-mounted is on a lower level than the coach roof.

So it looks like its not just a question of using raised blocks on the deck.

Any help ? Quite lost !

REgards

Tyrone Galea


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AndrewJ

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I've seen turning blocks mounted on the mast, at the same level as the entrance to the cockpit, naturally this put's the lines off the
deck fwd of the cockpit. I have also seen them run down to the deck near the mast, a block then the lines run aft to a fairlead and
up and into the cockpit thru another fairlead. It would seem to depend on what is most convenient, economical and esthetic for
your taste or pocketbook. I think that is what you were asking?
regards.

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Alexis

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Hello Tyrone,

Regardless of the position of mast / coach roof, one thing I personnally would avoid at all costs, is having the blocks that are at the foot of your mast, secured to the deck/coachroof. In y opinion, they should be "linked" to the mast by way of a plate under the mast in case of a deck stepped mast, or bolted on the mast in case of a keel stepped mast, so that you're not trying to a) pull the mast through your deck or b) lift your deck along the mast.
These 2 fittings can generally be easily reealised. Another thing to bear in mind if securing blocks on the mast, is to avoid having a ring of holes all roungd the mast (if you have a lot of lines you want led aft), wich could weaken it. Instead, one could have some sort of SS collar on which you'd fix the blocks made and clamp it around the mast
secured with only a few bolts / rivets.

Hope this may help,

Alexis

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MedMan

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I had the same problem running lines aft on my Trident Voyager 35 - a pilot house design. I solved the problem by buying an additional gooseneck fitting from Kemp (now Seldon). I then got the local stainless steel man to fabricate a fitting that pivots within the gooseneck fitting and which has a horizontal arm on which three independent pulleys are hung. The arms sweep forward to keep them in the correct line. These are used for the kicker, the main outhall (I have in-mast reefing) and the main furling line. Mounting these on a swivel fitting ensures that always remain alligned with the boom whatever position it is in.

I have also lead a halyard aft which exits from the bottom of the mast and previously secured to the mast. For this I rivetted a swivel block (it has a spring behind it) to the mast in the correct position to turn the halyard along the line of the roof of the pilot house.

On the pilot house roof I mounted a four-way deck organizer through-bolted. This was actually the most difficult job as it meant removing the headliner inside and that meant removing an internal grab rail. To avoid compressing the balsa-cored roof I cut out sections of the inner skin and balsa core with a 25mm hole saw and glued in short lengths of brush-handle. The bolts pass through the centre of the brush handle pieces. The nuts (lock nuts) are proud of the inner skin but are easilly covered by the headliner.

Take plenty of time setting up thw whole thing in mock-up form before you drill your first hole. You will need several helping hands to hold different bits so that you can check everthing lines up.

Good luck!

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MIKE_MCKIE

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I am in same position. My mast step has 6 lugs cast into it, facing upwards. The after facing one is used for the kicker, but the others (2 each side & 1 forward) are free. My plan is to shackle lead blocks to these lugs, then lead the lines to the forward end of the coachroof, where I will mount a deck organiser each side & back to aft end of coachroof/clutch/winch.
The basic run of the lines is the same as direct mounting on the mast level with the top of the coachroof, but at least you don't have to drill holes in the mast, or make any sort of collar. Additional mast compression onto the step is relatively small, and if the step is designed with lugs, why make life more difficult than it already is?
Hope this is of some help.
brgds
Mike

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dickh

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On mine, the lines run from the base of the mast(integral sheaves) to a pair of turning blocks one on top of each other at the side of the cabin top handrails and then aft to the cockpit, between the handrail and hatch. The turning blocks are through bolted the coachroof with a stainless plate internally, with dome nuts. down side is that the hatch cannot open fully as it fouls the lines from the mast, but is not a problem as the hatch is large and needs only to be open about halfway to get good access to below. Similarly I have fitted dual turning blocks at 90º to the mast for reefing lines led to the cockpit, again thro' bolted. Additional blocks for these reefing lines are fitted to deck eyes thro' bolted. Does not look very pretty down below but I'm confident they are strong enough.
With the Genoa halyard, with roller reefing, I tie this off at the mast - thus saving one line going aft(Only used twice a year!)
Make sure you don't make a "tripping" hazard with the lines across the deck.



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tgalea

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Thanks to all for your replies.

I definitely agree to not drilling all the way around the mast. So the collar or stainless steel plate welded on to the pedestal are looking more interesting.

Another worry I have is that unlike modern mast arrangements most of my halyards are operated from the bow-side of the mast, i.e. the front facing side.

I tried operating them from the point they would eventually end up in, that it abeam, on either side and all work but i presume chafe would be a new problem then.

What is your opinion ?


Regards
Tyrone.


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tgalea

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Hi,

Can you send more info regarding the additional gooseneck fitting from Kemp ? It sound interesting.

Moreover do you know of any collars which can be purchased ready rather than having one manufactured ?

Thanks

Tyrone.


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MedMan

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It is the standard gooseneck fitting that Kemp use for the attachment of their booms to their masts. Go to:

http://www.seldenmast.com

Click on Products and then Booms and Rodkickers and then Introduction and you will see a picture of the gooseneck fitting. I bought an extra one of the bits that rivets to the mast.

I do not know of any pre-fabricated fitting that would do the job - sorry!

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