Rudder - to drop or not to drop?

[Tim Good]

Background:
I’ve got a 1996 Seastream 43. Heavily built with a large skeg. The rudder is fine with no apparent wobble, play or problems. The cobra mechanism in the pedestal has been serviced and checked by myself every 5 years.

We plan to circumnavigate next year over a long time in various hops.

Question:
Do you think I should drop the rudder and assess the condition? Some say “yes” because only by doing so will you know …. others say “no” why would you drop a perfectly operational rudder without any symptoms.

I’d like to ask the question to people experienced with rudders, rather than those purely answering hypothetically based on my plans. If time and money were no question then I would drop it so I’m trying to determine the priority jobs.

 

[rogerthebodger]

I am of the camp that says if it is' Ent broke don't fix it.

One of the main issues I see with GRP rudders is the possibility of ingress of sea water into the substrate that could effect the tang to SS shaft connection.

I had that some time ago that became evident by water dripping out of the bottom of the rudder shaft.

 

[Stemar]

One of the main issues I see with GRP rudders is the possibility of ingress of sea water into the substrate that could effect the tang to SS shaft connection.

An easy way to check this would be simply to drill a small hole in the bottom of the rudder. If water comes out, it's worth investigating further. If not, fill it up and get on with the other jobs

 

[Refueler]

Rogers point of water ingress is important. But generally any internal damage cannot be assessed dropped or in place - only by cutting in / drilling holes.

But the pivot points of the rudder and whether worn can be assessed ... what about the hidden part of rudder stock passing up through bearings / hull ? These can all be checked properly with rudder dropped out.
Lifting .. moving .. trying to feel for any slack in place is not really viable given the size of boat.

 

[Supertramp]

Take the history of the boat into account if you know it. A boat like that might have already circumnavigated twice or it may have sat in a marina.

If you have self steering with a separate rudder you might consider you have a back up. You cannot forsee every problem.

Definitely check for water ingress. I can only add that I have dropped my rudder (to remove prop shaft) and found minimal wear to shaft and bushes so replaced everything as it was. But the boat has had an easy 35yr life.

 

[rogerthebodger]

Rogers point of water ingress is important. But generally any internal damage cannot be assessed dropped or in place - only by cutting in / drilling holes.

I actually split my rudder open and found the plywood inside had rotted away which I replaces.

The tangs look fine but as I can weld stainless steel, I did add extra welds were the tang joined the rudder shaft.

Our safety authority want me to drop the rudder just for inspection and as Refueler says that will only allow inspection of the rudder shaft bearing and not the status of the rudder internals and the tang connections

Personally, I prefer a steel rudder body as its welded to the shaft, can be pressure tested and filed with old engine oil to protect inside from any corrosion.

I made an auxiliary rudder for my monitor self-steering gear from stainless steel and works well and can steer my boat without using the main boat rudder only used to trim the boat