Rubbing Strake varnish

[CAPTAIN FANTASTIC]

The rubbing strake looks bad; I need to sand it down and varnish it; What varnish to use? polyurethane one part?; polyurethane two parts? Is sikkens varnish more flexible?
In some areas the rubbing strake has come off the hull; I intend to use West epoxy to fill any gaps and glue it back to the hull; any other glue type instead of West epoxy?

 

[Tranona]

None of the ones you suggest. Try Sikkens Novatec/Top two part woodstain. Comes out consistently as the best for life, easy application and lowest cost. Use one of the lighter tints if you want some of the grain of the wood to show. The only negative trade-off for these benefits is that the finish is not high gloss.

 

[pcatterall]

I gave up trying to maintain varnish on rubbing strakes because they tend to get rubbed!! ( fender lines other boats mooring lines etc)
The rub on/in stains seem a good compromise.

 

[reginaldon]

I gave up trying to maintain varnish on rubbing strakes because they tend to get rubbed!! ( fender lines other boats mooring lines etc)
The rub on/in stains seem a good compromise.

For all my woodwork, I use Danish oil.

 

[prv]

Varnishing a rubbing strake seems like a daft idea, given that the one thing varnish can't stand is being rubbed or bashed. Didn't prevent KS's previous owner from trying, and a pretty sorry state it was in when we took her over. I scraped off the remains last winter and oiled it instead with teak oil. It does need regular re-application, but it's a very simple job and can even be done under way if you need something to do on a long boring leg in reasonable weather.

Pete

 

[onesea]

For all my woodwork, I use Danish oil.

Here here

Another +1 for oil on all outside woodwork! Have found some in discount DIY Store for less than a pound a year just do not let in run into patterned non slip fiber glass

Not certain how to clean that mess, but it has not stopped me sailing

 

[Lakesailor]

Using epoxy may be troublesome if the boat is not under cover and well dried out.
I've been using Sabatack 750 XL for lots of bonding recently. It uses damp to cure so is ideal for the job you are doing. A test piece I did is absolutely rock solid. I can't part the two bits.

 

[samwise]

Met a guy in Denmark last season who swears by Le Tonkinoise ( which is a bit like Danish oil). He puts on eight to ten coats and the wood soaks it up rather than building a surface covering that is susceptible to damage. His strakes looked pretty good to me at the end of season and he says that a few more coats at the start of the new season keeps it in good shape.

 

[Poignard]

Met a guy in Denmark last season who swears by Le Tonkinoise ( which is a bit like Danish oil). He puts on eight to ten coats and the wood soaks it up rather than building a surface covering that is susceptible to damage. His strakes looked pretty good to me at the end of season and he says that a few more coats at the start of the new season keeps it in good shape.

I use that - good stuff, easy to apply because it's not runny like oils and it lasts well. The problem in the UK is that one man has the sole agency for it and it is not avaiable in chandleries, so you get hit with a hefty carriage charge.