Round Portland

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Andrew_Fanner

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Summer holiday plans are coalescing with an intention to head West to the Exe from the Solent. How (weather permitting!) "exciting" does it get going round Portland Bill? Three small children don't like it if it gets too bouncy. Failing that, how does one minimise the "excitement"?

Thanks for any advice. Boat is a Fjord 27.
 
The inshore passage (literally a stones throw from the shore) is OK but look out for lobster/crab pots - the place is strewn with them. Stop in Weymouth if you don't like the look of the weather and its a decent-ish place to stretch legs etc. There is another problem, though, before you get there - St Albans Ledge and the Lulworth range. If the range is being used, you will be forced out to sea approx 3-4nm, which will avoid the overfalls at St Albans, but family might feel a little exposed that far out. The range is always shut during August. Otherwise, the range is currently being used from 1600 onwards although you'll be shooed away from 1400 onwards ie plan to clear it (inshore) before 1400.

In good weather, it's great and the Dorset coast is interesting. Hope this helps.
 
You have two options - go well offshore of the Race, or take the inside passage at the right state of tide, as described in MacMillans or a South Coast Pilot. Going inshore may need a passage at an inconvenient time, depending on where you want to go across Lyme Bay.

Going inside is very close to the Bill, perhaps a hundred yards off at most. There is deep water but many lobster pots, boats have encountered them, and further off is the Race - no place to go at all, let alone with children. The passage inshore is reasonably smooth. Further out it will depend on wind and wave state. If you are going direct from the Solent I would be tempted to go offshore. Its not much further and there are fewer constraints. If it gets too bouncy there is always Weymouth.

Have a good trip.

Keith
 
Weymouth is a likely stop anyway, things for smalls to do (beach and so forth). Final destination is the River Exe, timed so that we can take part in the Civil War reenactment at Powderham Castle over the August BH weekend (shameless plug!).

Thanks for the advice so far.
 
All depends on the weather of course but if it's good, Dont miss Lulworth Cove for lunch or amble about. It also helps cos if there fireing. The safety boat cant argue if your going to Lulworth. Also whatever they say. You have right of way. So only go out of your way if you feel like being helpfull. Weymouth is nice so stop there for the night. If the weather is reasonable just crash through the Races. It's only for about 20 minutes at about 8 knot's through the worst of it and saves all the faffing about. Or wait till slack water and do the same. Depends on boat/Tide/weather. Dont bother with Exmouth it's the only crap harbour there is down there. Tidal and no good if the weather turns. Go for Brixham/Dartmouth/Or Salcolmbe. IMHO dont miss Salcolmbe. If you want to go further down just ask.

No one can force me to come here-----------
----- I'm a Volunteer!!!

Haydn
 
Oh well if you have to go to Exmouth. So be it. Dont forget to wait for the tide. You need GPS to find the Fairway Buoy and keep to channel. Dont get lost in the bay cos theres loads of sand banks. With luck the H/M will have a spare berth. Wait till he's opened the bridge for you. Watch the enterence cos the tide runs passed very fast. Going against the tide just aim slightly passed the enterance and keep the speed on untill in. Then stick the breaks on!!. PM Long John. He's based there and could help with moorings.

No one can force me to come here-----------
----- I'm a Volunteer!!!

Haydn
 
Andrew

I'd recommend the inshore passage - watch out for lobster pots, obviously, as others have said.

Remember that pilot books and almanacs are written by yachties, for whom five knots is a reasonable speed to aspire to and who therefore run the real risk of getting swept down into the race by the strong tides that run along the sides of the Bill.

So all that business about timing your passage to coincide with HW Dover + whatever it is, is designed to ensure a favourable tidal stream to help a slow boat on its way. For a planing motor cruiser your main concern is staying in flat water, so you must time your passage to ensure that there's no hint of wind against tide, which makes it lumpy, even inshore.

If it's a nice day you can of course elect to just crash through as someone above has suggested, but with small children on board I'd advise against it.

So here's what I'd suggest: go to Weymouth (it's nice). Call in on the HM or Coastguard offices while the kids are on the beach and ask their advice - telling them what your cruising speed is. They're always kind and helpful. With your confidence boosted by a grizzled old Coastguard officer (or a nice young lady) telling you it'll be fine, set off in settled conditions, wind with tide, and go as close round the Bill as you dare. Warn the family that it'll be a bit bumpy, because it will be, but only for a short while.

And have a good trip.

Alan
MBY

PS Exmouth is take- or leaveable, but upriver Topsham's very nice. Wait till half-tide or above and keep close to the buoys, especially off Lympstone. There's a little marina up there now (Trout's) which should be able to accommodate your boat afloat. Takes about an hour to get up there.
 
There are three areas of overfalls you have to watch for, Durlston and St Albans as well as Portland Bill. Given that you're not going to be setting out in dodgy weather anyway, none of these should be a problem providing you time your passage for slack water or wind over tide conditions. For your trip, absolutely ideal conditions would be a NE or E 2-3 with a west going tide. A SW 3-4 will give you a fairly lumpy ride and if you go with wind over tide, as has been reccomended, ie east going, you'll be pushing the tide and your journey will be longer. Any forecast wind over a F4 with South or West in it should be avoided
Personally, I would take the inshore route past these headlands (and that means within stone throwing distance). The sea tends to be a bit flatter and it makes the journey more interesting for the kids - the Dorset coast is fab anyway.
Weymouth is thoroughly reccomended especially with kids - loads to do including v. safe sandy beach, fun fair, amusement parks, fish & chips etc. Try to moor in the harbour rather than the marina even if you have to raft out because the atmosphere is really convivial
 
gree with all said.

Portland inner route almost touching the Light house.
High water plus or minus 1 hour.

Good weather is the key. Poole is a good sheltered stop if you are confronted with Easterlies which make Studland and Swanage not good stopovers prior to handling the Durlston and St Aldhelms problems. Southern side of Swanage Bay Peveril ledge marked and keep to East of this, Durlston Bay and then Durlston close and on to St. Aldhelms again close. After St Aldhelms make a course for Portland about 1nm inland of the Lighthouse, this keeps you well clear fo shingles Bank.

You will see the Prison and then follow the coast around fairly close inshore.

Once clear of Portland Bill off we go across Lyme Bay. Look out for the Pots!!

I am even getting excited thinking about it!!!

A couple of people here have mentioned pilots and almanacks and probably take it for granted you have Reeds and the Shell Pilot. If not get them.

The Shell Pilot describes the 100 m overfalls at Portland in a way that nearly put us off boating to the West for good.

But if you get the weather right and the tide then it really is a fantastic trip.


CJ
chris@stone.uk.com

www.stone.uk.com
 
Aah, I see..........I wouldn't rely too much on how accurate these people can shoot........and I would not take a young family through it because the sound of gunfire will be frightening to them.
 
EErrm! Just thought about it. Doubt if you have a hard top. I've been up and down from Plymouth to Solent loads of times. But must admit the boat does feel more like a submarine some times taking my route through the overfalls. Then again it dont seem to worry much about three foot of water over the window screen and up the fly bridge. Might cause you more problems than just sticking the radar on and sailing blind for a few minutes!! So go at slack water in a F3/4. Dont bother if it's much more than that. Lyme bay can seem a long way in anything but idealish conditions.

No one can force me to come here-----------
----- I'm a Volunteer!!!

Haydn
 
I've harly ever heard them fire it. Not that noisey anyway. Its quite safe really, they would get in alot of trouble if they hit you!!!i

No one can force me to come here-----------
----- I'm a Volunteer!!!

Haydn
 
I've hardly ever heard them fire it. Not that noisey anyway. Its quite safe really, they would get in alot of trouble if they hit you!!!i

No one can force me to come here-----------
----- I'm a Volunteer!!!

Haydn
 
The Lulworth ranges are normally closed during the summer and school holidays. Tourists bring more money in to the local economy than the army do. If they are being used and you stray into the area then the patrol boat will be with you in a flash anyway.

Wha'dya mean "I'm always playing with this engine" its the only way to get it to run!
 
If Powderham is your destination then your best bet is to try and get a mooring somewhere off Starcross which makes getting to Powderham reasonably easy.

As AlanH has already said, try and avoid Exmouth Docks which is laughingly called a marina with no facilities at all, not even a loo or a shower!!! Trouts at Topsham are helpful and Topsham's a lovely place, excellent pubs and food.

Another place to consider stopping is just off the Turf Locks hotel which is where the Exeter ship canal starts, again close to Powderham and a beautiful location with a good pub to boot!
 
Hmm, not half a much trouble as you would be in, with a bloomin great shell in yer fly bridge!

Right of way? Not sure about that, don't fancy arguing with a 75mm shell, right of way, or no right of way!

Old Chinese proverb 'Man who sail boat into rice field, soon get into paddy'
 
Oh no. It says so in the almanac. You have right of way, not 75mm shells!!
Had a laugh around there last summer. Drove into thick fog. Totaly forgot about fireing range. Cos to busy sorting things after coming out of briliant sun into pea soup. There a boat in front on the radar screen, where ever I went, it was still there. Tried to get passed every which way. Finaly I out foxed him. Came out the fog back into bright sun light just before Weymouth. Dawned on me a couple of hours latter. Must have been the pattrol boat!!

No one can force me to come here-----------
----- I'm a Volunteer!!!

Haydn
 
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