Rotostay

[PLEIAS]

As a precaution this year i decided to take the mast down and check the rigging as nobody knows when it was last replaced.Then i thought i'll take the furler apart -unscrewed the four bolts easily and then realised no more screws holding it in the foil.Does anybody have an idea how to take the bottom out so i can change the forestay???Tried heat allready as well as banging the disc with a hummer.HELP!!!The boat was build 1979 and i think the rotostay might be as old as that.

 

[Juggler7823]

I have the same problem at the moment. Rotastay are notoriously difficult to undo after years in use. Usually the bottom bearings are damaged in the process. Ian Cochrane at XW Rigging is the supplier. I have a Rotastay II book which I can post to you if neccessary.

 

[MarAzul]

I don't think this will help! I have just done the same as you with a rotostay of similar vintage. I couldn't even remove the screws as they were so badly corroded.
My local rigger tells me it's typical of the breed and there's not much you can do but replace it. (no he wasn't selling me a new one!) But he is getting the job to fit me a new Nemo.

 

[PLEIAS]

As i'm located in Greece it's a bit difficult to know where XW is but i would appreciate any kind of manual as i cant find anything on the rotostay page.Please mail if available at syn-acc@hol.gr . Many thanks in advance.The wife will kill me if i tell her we need to replace it.

 

[Juggler7823]

XW Rigging is based at Gosport(?) on the English south coast. Sorry but I cannot scan documents at the moment.

 

[Poignard]

If your Rotostay is as ancient as mine you have to slide the foil up the forstay a few inches until it is clear of the d -shaped spigot over which it fits. This will not be easy if this has not been carried out several times a season, as Rotostay recommends. It is difficult to get a grip on the foil but try using a timber hitch around the foil [see Ashley Book of Knots etc] and a tackle. That worked for me when I first dismantled mine; since then I have kept it greased so I can pull it up by hand. Having got the foil clear, unscrew the drum from the forestay swaged fitting.

The foil itself is in sections joined with internal coupling pieces retained in place with 4BA screws. To get the forestay out you have to dismantle the foil sections and remove the couplers because the end fittings on the forestay won't pass through the couplers. Dismantling the aluminium foil will probably be the hardest job because the aluminium couplers will be corroded in place, unless it was assembled by a gentleman who used some compound to prevent this happening. Try not to destroy the foil sections because they are expensive to replace.

I can email a drawing that might help you.

Please note that my experience only relates to my old system, later types may differ.

 

[PLEIAS]

I have allready taken the drum out.The problem is that i can't get the s.s disc that serves as housing to the drum out of the foil. Inside the foil at the base there must have been once screws securing the foil to what appears to be the bottom of the forestay -anyway we drilled them through as we couldn't see any screws inside.Could it be that somehow the disc is screwed on the foil itself?The disc i'm speaking of has two rams and four holes for screws that secures it to the drum itself.From the bottom of the disc you can see in a hole what appears to be the bottom of the forestay housing.I don't know if that helps to id the type.Thanks anyway for the advice John(if i remember well).

 

[bryantee]

the forestay has a crimped threaded ferrule which screws into the bit that is corroded into the alloy d section .this is the bit with the four holes which bolts to the drum. if you gently heat it and belt hell out of it and manage to raise it raise it 2 inch you can unscrew it.the alloy d section acts as a lock. if you do it with the mast up a 4mm wire fastened on to the hole in the crimped ferrule on forestay allows you to retrieve the forestay through the alloy sections.It can be an absolute cow.
good luck.you will find a number engraved somewhere on the drum or plate.this identifies the build date,length of forestay etc.

 

[Pete735]

Had exactly the same problem on my 1979 Rotostay last year and as everyone says it's the application of heat and a large plastic mallet that will free it and don't be afraid to really belt the s/s base, it will take it. Took me half a day and considerable bad language to free mine.

I was told about the engraved details showing build date etc, but mine has nothing on so I came to the conclusion it must be quite an early example. Although the bearing tracks were a little pitted, I left those and replaced the ball bearings only. As has been stated, lift the foil periodically to keep it free in future.

Good Luck

 

[Talbot]

I have had this problem a couple of times. The first time was very bad indeed. First remove the drum and bearings from the foil by undoing the four stainless bolts that go through the stailesss bit which locates the foil. Then I used a propane blow torch on the foil/furler join area. You need to be really ruthless about this, but keep moving the torch around as too long in one spot and it will melt the aluminium foil. once it is really hot apply sharp force to the stainless bit. I used a piece of 2"x4" wood - but you will need to secure the foil to stop that moving - I have found that a convenient boat trailer complete with boat makes quite a good place to secure the foil!.