Ronseal Wet Rot Wood Hardener NOT surface treatment?

[Ayachtie]

I was painting some old wood with Ronseal Wet Rot Wood hardener and had some left in the pot.

Without any thought I applied the spare to the wooden block which sits under the bottom of my mast - which is not rotten and which I treat annually with some exterior wood treatment stuff.

Then I read the tin.

DO NOT use as a surface treatment.

Is that because it's not porous? So I've now completely sealed the top surface of my mast support block? Which will now proceed to rot from below because it can't dry out?

 

[alahol2]

I'd suspect it means it's not UV stable or that it doesn't form a good base for other paint/varnish systems.

 

[PhillM]

I think it just means thet you shuld not reply on the ronseal product to act as a primer.

I use it on my wooden hull and what I do is paint it into creaks or soft wood. While it says do it once ont he tin, I usually put it on twice. I then make sure that I wire brush and then sand the surface before putting on three or more layers of primer: 50:50, 50:50 then 90:10 so that it gets to soak in and make a really good surface for the paint to stick to.

 

[JumbleDuck]

I was painting some old wood with Ronseal Wet Rot Wood hardener and had some left in the pot.

Without any thought I applied the spare to the wooden block which sits under the bottom of my mast - which is not rotten and which I treat annually with some exterior wood treatment stuff.

Then I read the tin.

DO NOT use as a surface treatment.

Is that because it's not porous?

My understanding is that this stuff is a moisture-cured resin, so it soaks into the wood, finds damp stuff, mixes with the dampness and then sets, effectively replacing water with plastic (thank you, Dr Gunther von Hagens). If you apply it to the surface it's probably just form a thin skin there, cured by atmospheric moisture, but not actually offer much protection against anything.

So while you probably haven't done any good to anything, I don't think you'll have done any harm either. Their warning is more along the lines of "Do not use coffee enemas as a treatment for athlete's foot" than "Do not swallow rat poison as a treatment for athlete's foot"

 

[jwilson]

My understanding is that this stuff is a moisture-cured resin, so it soaks into the wood, finds damp stuff, mixes with the dampness and then sets, effectively replacing water with plastic (thank you, Dr Gunther von Hagens). If you apply it to the surface it's probably just form a thin skin there, cured by atmospheric moisture, but not actually offer much protection against anything. [/I]

I don't think it's anything as sophisticated as a moisture-cured resin: I suspect it is a mostly a very thin cellulose lacquer - certainly it contains a lot of acetone. Useful stuff for domestic use as a quick fix for rotten windowsills etc before filling with car body filler or similar.

 

[JumbleDuck]

I don't think it's anything as sophisticated as a moisture-cured resin: I suspect it is a mostly a very thin cellulose lacquer - certainly it contains a lot of acetone. Useful stuff for domestic use as a quick fix for rotten windowsills etc before filling with car body filler or similar.

Good grief. You are right. I just found the COSHH sheet and the only ingredient listed is Acetone, 50% - 100%. Blimey, what a rip-off.

http://images.toolbank.com/downloads/cossh/0892.pdf

 

[Ayachtie]

Thanks for the reassurance and info!

 

[VicS]

Good grief. You are right. I just found the COSHH sheet and the only ingredient listed is Acetone, 50% - 100%. Blimey, what a rip-off.

http://images.toolbank.com/downloads/cossh/0892.pdf

Thats the only hazardous component. Safety data sheets do not list non hazardous components.

I have used it ........ not impressed at all!

There is what might be a better "treatment" namely Git Rot which is a thin 2 part epoxy resin http://www.jamestowndistributors.com/userportal/show_product.do?pid=2093

 

[JumbleDuck]

Thats the only hazardous component. Safety data sheets do not list non hazardous components.

True, but I'm surprised that whatever else is in there has no safety issues at all - no volatility, no inflammability, no irritation, no toxicity. Hell, if it's not dangerous, how goo can it be?

I agree about Git-Rot, by the way. Good stuff. I think it was a single-part treatment years ago.

 

[VicS]

True, but I'm surprised that whatever else is in there has no safety issues at all - no volatility, no inflammability, no irritation, no toxicity. Hell, if it's not dangerous, how goo can it be?

I agree about Git-Rot, by the way. Good stuff. I think it was a single-part treatment years ago.

Certainly something in it. Just looked at the nearly dried out dregs in the tin I turfed off the garage shelf a few days ago. Solid around the cap and a very sticky layer in the bottom of the tin.

 

[LittleShip]

There is what might be a better "treatment" namely Git Rot which is a thin 2 part epoxy resin http://www.jamestowndistributors.com/userportal/show_product.do?pid=2093

Vic, Jamestown distributors is in the States, unlikely to get that posted over here.

Here is what I use on wood to seal it,
http://www.mbfg.co.uk/epoxy-resins/eposeal-300-epoxy-primer.html

I have posted this before.

Tom.

 

[DownWest]

Resoltech also sell a water based resin. Originally designed to 'stiffen up' dodgy wood in historic buildings. Makes a fine sealing coat for bare wood, in fact, my boat never did get the UV top coats (until this winter) just looked like a well varnished example
It also works very well as a primer for other materials. Mate used it for his ferro boat before fitting ply bulkheads, I spoke to the tech guy at Resoltech.com to get info on this. He cleared it as the best choice, before filleting with thickened epoxy

Edit: there is a UK agent, just escapes my mind at the mo.