Rod End Fitting - Ball Joint Removal - Drag Link

[Deleted member 36384]

Hi,

My steering system has a drag link between the rudder stock lever and bevel gearbox lever. The drag link has a ball joint rod end at each end. The ball joint is connected to the lever with the stud section and a nylock nut. When I try and undo this nut the ball joint just spins in its housing. I have pealed back a rubber cover and as far as I can feel, there are no flats, or room, to grip the stud part. I can't actually get my eyes into a position to have a good look.

I am obviously missing something here so can anyone advise how to remove ball joints from the levers, special tool or thin spanner?

Thanks,

BlowingOldBoots

 

[Lakesailor]

On a car you lever the joint housing up (or down) so that it grips the ball. As you say it's turning it sounds like the taper is broken already. You may get enough pressure by levering to re-engage the taper. This should enable you to undo the nut. Leave the nut on the thread to avoid damage, it only need to be a couple of turns up from the tightened position).It may be the taper falls loose again or you need a splitter.
The weapons of your choice.
Two hammers either side of the link, to shock the taper free.
Wedges between ling and ball housing (not very elegant) or a proper ball joint splitter.

 

[Deleted member 36384]

Does the stud part have a taper which fits the lever?

Update
Looked it up on Wiki, the stud has a taper, so understand.

 

[Tiddler]

I have experienced this problem on car ball joints. I solved the problem by grinding down each side of the nut with an angle grinder until the threads are just faintly visible and then clouting the remains of the nut with a hammer and cold chisel. Animal and brutish but it works.

Beware! The sparks can set fire to things so keep a bucket of water handy if you don't want to waste an extinguisher.

Tiddler.

 

[Lakesailor]

It should, if it's a readily available part and not some strange marine bit. You need to lever the ball joint up to get the taper to grip again enough to undo the nut. Spray with Plus gas to be sure it's not a rusty thread you are fighting as well as a loose taper.


You can clearly see the shank is a taper on this joint

 

[Don107]

If it is a tapered ball stud and socket like a automotive steering system have you tried to tighten the nut to see if you can get the tapers to lock together to stop the ball stud from turning and then undo the nut

Nylocs are good in some applications but I think this one would be better with a castellated nut and split pin

Once the nut is undone if you put a hammer on each side of the female taper and hit it, the male taper will normally drop out and the joint will separate

Regards Don

 

[Deleted member 36384]

Okat doaky, thanks everyone, I now know what I am working with. The steering has progressively stiffened since the yacht was taken out the water last October. I lifted the rudder stock lever off (complete with ball joint and drag link) and thankfully the rudder is nice and free. So I just need to work my way along the various knuckle joints, bevel boxes until I find what component is stiff.

 

[Tranona]

If it is an old Whitlock rod system then the bevel box and links will likely be off a Jaguar Mk 10 or similar car.

 

[Deleted member 36384]

If it is an old Whitlock rod system then the bevel box and links will likely be off a Jaguar Mk 10 or similar car.

I believe it's a Mathway LS system, although there are no markings to indicate this, just similarities by comparing pictures http://www.parsonsmathwaymarine.co.uk/mathway.htm

Thanks for the tip; a quick search on Google finds this http://www.jagspares.co.uk/Manners/partdetail.asp?partno=C27973* which at least looks identical to the item on the yacht.

Below is one of the gearbox for translating rotary motion to linear motion. Would you know if this is oil or grease filled? The small port on top unscrews to reveal a grease like substance but I cant imagine trying to squeeze grease into a hole about 8 mm in diameter.

 

[Lakesailor]

Replace the screw with a grease nipple, top it up then put the screw back in.

 

[Tranona]

The bevel box does not look like an automotive steering box, but the ball joints are off a car. Unlikely they will need replacing but should be easy to source as it is only the taper and the thread that will be critical.