jimmy_the_builder
Well-Known Member
Have you tried Axon?
Rocker Switches
- Thread starter petem
- Start date
Have you tried Axon?
petem
Well-Known Member
No, but that's a good idea.
It's got to be either Axon or H&E, both of which I am first name terms with!
It's got to be either Axon or H&E, both of which I am first name terms with!
Assassin
Well-Known Member
Your diagnosis is incorrect, let me explain:
With any switch and relay you only use the switch so a small current is passed through it to activate the relay which switches a large current, so your switch should be permanently live at one side which is the incoming side, the outgoing side will only be live when you switch on the switch as this outgoing side is the power to operate the relay coil to energise the relay and switch it on.
Your configuration depends on your layout:
Test for a permanent 12v on the incoming side of your switch and you should have 12v.
Test on the outgoing switch by switching it on and this should have 12v, switch it off and you should have 0v, if you have this then your switch is working correctly.
You should have a third wire to your switch and this is an earth wire, this is the earth for the bulb if it has a bulb, or the earth for the LED if it has an LED.
So, you should have a power wire in to your switch and a power wire out from your switch, and an earth connected to a third pin which should be tested for continuity to earth, and if all these are fine your connections are correct and the only fault can be internally and usually this is a blown bulb or corrosion.
You do have another option if your bulb is blown or its connections are corroded internally and this is to fit outboard LED and this must be the 12 volt type with the internal resistor fitted, these are polarity sensitive and must be connected the correct way round, they come in many sizes and generally you can get round LED's from 3mm diameter to 10mm diameter and the longer pin is the positive pin and the shorter pin is the negative leg, and all you do is drill a hole to mount your LED,s in a better or more suitable location and epoxy glue them into the hole.
You take a wire from your switch power outgoing side of the switch to the LED long leg and cover it with heat shrink tubing, and take another wire from the negative wire on your switch and connect it to the short pin and cover with heat shrink tubing and everytime you activate your switch the appropriate LED illuminates, as LED,s are encased in epoxy they are waterproof as standard and only the pins need waterproofing which is where the heat shrink tubing comes in.
With any switch and relay you only use the switch so a small current is passed through it to activate the relay which switches a large current, so your switch should be permanently live at one side which is the incoming side, the outgoing side will only be live when you switch on the switch as this outgoing side is the power to operate the relay coil to energise the relay and switch it on.
Your configuration depends on your layout:
Test for a permanent 12v on the incoming side of your switch and you should have 12v.
Test on the outgoing switch by switching it on and this should have 12v, switch it off and you should have 0v, if you have this then your switch is working correctly.
You should have a third wire to your switch and this is an earth wire, this is the earth for the bulb if it has a bulb, or the earth for the LED if it has an LED.
So, you should have a power wire in to your switch and a power wire out from your switch, and an earth connected to a third pin which should be tested for continuity to earth, and if all these are fine your connections are correct and the only fault can be internally and usually this is a blown bulb or corrosion.
You do have another option if your bulb is blown or its connections are corroded internally and this is to fit outboard LED and this must be the 12 volt type with the internal resistor fitted, these are polarity sensitive and must be connected the correct way round, they come in many sizes and generally you can get round LED's from 3mm diameter to 10mm diameter and the longer pin is the positive pin and the shorter pin is the negative leg, and all you do is drill a hole to mount your LED,s in a better or more suitable location and epoxy glue them into the hole.
You take a wire from your switch power outgoing side of the switch to the LED long leg and cover it with heat shrink tubing, and take another wire from the negative wire on your switch and connect it to the short pin and cover with heat shrink tubing and everytime you activate your switch the appropriate LED illuminates, as LED,s are encased in epoxy they are waterproof as standard and only the pins need waterproofing which is where the heat shrink tubing comes in.
petem
Well-Known Member
Lenser, let me explain how I think the thing works. There are two cables and three wires....
a) Red cable / red wire - Port battery on (-)
b) Red cable / black wire - Port battery off (-)
c) Green cable / red wire - Starboard battery on (-)
d) Green cable / black wire - Portboard battery off (-)
e) Black wire - Negative
f) Red wire - Port battery lamp (+)
g) Black wire - Starboard battery lamp (+)
This is the wiring diagram for the switch....
These are wired as follows:
Port Switch
a) is wired to 3)
b) is wired to 1)
e) is wired to 2) and 7)
f) is wired to 8)
Starboard Switch
c) is wired to 3)
d) is wired to 1)
e) is wired to 2) and 7)
g) is wired to 8)
The lamp on the Port side switch comes on and off as the relay is energized to the on and off positions. All OK!
However, the lamp on the Starboard side switch remains off as the relay is energized to the on and off positions but when I test this with a multimeter there is a permanent 13v across 7) and 8) or ('e' and 'g'). So if I replaced the switch, I would see a constantly illuminated lamp which is obviously incorrect.
a) Red cable / red wire - Port battery on (-)
b) Red cable / black wire - Port battery off (-)
c) Green cable / red wire - Starboard battery on (-)
d) Green cable / black wire - Portboard battery off (-)
e) Black wire - Negative
f) Red wire - Port battery lamp (+)
g) Black wire - Starboard battery lamp (+)
This is the wiring diagram for the switch....
These are wired as follows:
Port Switch
a) is wired to 3)
b) is wired to 1)
e) is wired to 2) and 7)
f) is wired to 8)
Starboard Switch
c) is wired to 3)
d) is wired to 1)
e) is wired to 2) and 7)
g) is wired to 8)
The lamp on the Port side switch comes on and off as the relay is energized to the on and off positions. All OK!
However, the lamp on the Starboard side switch remains off as the relay is energized to the on and off positions but when I test this with a multimeter there is a permanent 13v across 7) and 8) or ('e' and 'g'). So if I replaced the switch, I would see a constantly illuminated lamp which is obviously incorrect.