Robbin's laminate for cabin sole

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Mike Bryon

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Tips welcome on how to fit it.
Just ordered 2x sheets of Robbin's 1mm cabin sole laminate. Current plan is to stick down to the existing cabin sole boards using evo-stik time bond then cut to shape using jigsaw with v fine blade. Final finish of edge with sand paper.
 
Wouldn't a laminate trimmer/palm router be better than a jigsaw? It should give you a flush match to your existing sole board.
 
If he sole boards already exist and fit then stick on the laminate slightly oversize and trim edges once glue set with a edge router blade - eg Trend 1/4" Trimmer Router Cutter 90°

Careful planning and a simple improvised jig needed to get all the stripes lined up. https://www.yachtsnet.co.uk/boats/charter/yn-saloon-table.jpg is mine after done. The most difficult bit is actually cutting the laminate sheet slightly oversize without it cracking. I started with tinsnips but gave up and bought Screwfix's cheapest 85mm blade mini-circular-saw which worked well, and caused less accidental cracks to the sheets of laminate.
 
I used a craft (Stanly, Box Cutter) knife to trim the same laminate. With the board upside down, on a stable, flat top at normal working height it is very easy. Place the blade flush against the board edge and score the laminate without trying to cut through in one go. A second or third pass may be needed. There I son need to try and force the blade down, concentrate on holding the blade flush against the original board as you draw it back towards you. If needed reposition the board so you are always drawing back towards you. The edge will not need sanding to make flush, but the top edge needs to be turned over very slightly to move from sharp cut to to a slightly round top edge. Do this very lightly with fine sandpaper to dull the shape, cut edge of the ply.. The objective here is to allow the varnish to roll over the edge and seal better rather than stick to a sharp end.
 
Am watching this thread with interest - I’ve fabricated (well a neighbour has) a new set of floor panels from marine ply, next job is to cover them and I wa thinking of using the same laminate as the OP - fortunately only need a single sheet for my boat as it’s not cheap!

So please update the thread with any helpful info and good luck with the job!

Edited to mention in another thread on this subject, a forumite (might have been Tranona) mentioned that if you use a a glued on laminate finish, you also need to laminate the bottom too to avoid the plywood warping or curling up. I just remembered this as the reason I paused this job to get on with other jobs! Anyone got any advice on this?
 
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Also watching with interest. Re-finishing ie sanding back and several coats of varnish to the existing cabin floor looks like an immense amount of work. And in a few places the existing veneer is already extremely thin/at risk of being sanded right through.

Think I would sand back existing boards fairly hard (like 40 grit), then glue the laminate on slightly oversize - careful to align stripes - then trim edges with router follower bit, as someone else suggested. Stopping frequently if it shows signs of getting hot.
 
Wandering Star said:
Edited to mention in another thread on this subject, a forumite (might have been Tranona) mentioned that if you use a a glued on laminate finish, you also need to laminate the bottom too to avoid the plywood warping or curling up. I just remembered this as the reason I paused this job to get on with other jobs! Anyone got any advice on this?
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'twas not me I have always used Danboline for the underside of sole boards. My Bavarias both had the laminate floor and the ply just had a coat of clear varnish underneath. No sign of any distortion
 
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nestawayboats said:
Also watching with interest. Re-finishing ie sanding back and several coats of varnish to the existing cabin floor looks like an immense amount of work. And in a few places the existing veneer is already extremely thin/at risk of being sanded right through.

Think I would sand back existing boards fairly hard (like 40 grit), then glue the laminate on slightly oversize - careful to align stripes - then trim edges with router follower bit, as someone else suggested. Stopping frequently if it shows signs of getting hot.
Click to expand...
Don't sand. Use a Bahco scraper. Quick enough.
 
Robbins are reluctant to replace the damaged sheet saying it's very expensive to deliver a replacement and collect the original. In my opinion they are trying a bit too hard to get me to take approximately £50 as a refund instead of issue a replacement. Over a third of one edge of the sheet is damaged. I sent photo.
The material is brittle and easily damaged. Not impressed by the customer service.
 
Thanks so much for all the advice.
It's expensive and Robbin's postage charge OTT but I'm happy with the result.
Others have described the best approach I would only add:
You need a large work space
A laminate trimmer is essential
Have extra material to allow for a 'trial and improvement' approach!
Use variable speed hand tools, I found lower speeds best.
To cut the sheets down and avoid chips I used a compact circular saw with a fine 60t blade.
cabin sole.jpg
 
I still have to fit these catches and am a bit concerned about the laminate splitting when I try to cut the holes. Any suggestions on the best approach? catches.jpg
 
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