tyce
Well-Known Member
which pop rivets do you use for a load bearing fixture on a mast and do you know any suppliers of rivets and gun
riveting mast
- Thread starter tyce
- Start date
sailorman
Well-Known Member
monel rivets, find a friendly rigger or mast supplier / manufacturer
Ian_Edwards
Well-Known Member
Only use Monel rivets, most chandelers stock them, the riviting gun is standard, DYI or car repair stuff. If you are fixing Stainless Steel make sure it's A4, 316 (same as A4) and if you get the choice go for a low carbon version 316L, its less likely to break. Also remeber to put an insulator between the fitting and the mast, traditionally a Chromate paste, yellow stuff, but electrical insulating tape will also work.
Cheers, Ian
Cheers, Ian
2Tizwoz
Well-Known Member
Toolstation do lazy tongs but they may be too light for you Tolman have a big selection at greater prices but my experience would indicate the arm type will be needed to place the larger diameter monel rivets successfully.
rwakeham
Well-Known Member
Def need a decent rivet gun for these rivets - I have broken 2 of the cheap ones. There is a company in Eastbourne that sells them cheaper than the chandlers, but I can not for the life of me remember their name at the moment.
cliff
Well-Known Member
Above waterline 304 is fine (A2) so mast fittings will be fine made out of 304 unless you sail upside down or frequently broach.
The "L" grades of 304 and 316 were developed to combat the problem of "weld decay" (chromium depletion at the grain boundaries caused by formation of Chromium Carbides resulting from slow cooling through the sensitizing temp range. The use of "L" grades will not have any real benefit in the proposed application when mechanically fastened. It is required when welding unless you want to carry out a solution anneal to break up the carbides and drive the carbon back into solid state solution.
Granted there are minor differences in the mechanical properties but nothing that would affect yotties extremely low tech use of such materials (welding excluded).
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"Artificial intelligence is no match for natural stupidity"
sailroom <span style="color:red">The place to auction your previously loved boatie bits</span>
The "L" grades of 304 and 316 were developed to combat the problem of "weld decay" (chromium depletion at the grain boundaries caused by formation of Chromium Carbides resulting from slow cooling through the sensitizing temp range. The use of "L" grades will not have any real benefit in the proposed application when mechanically fastened. It is required when welding unless you want to carry out a solution anneal to break up the carbides and drive the carbon back into solid state solution.
Granted there are minor differences in the mechanical properties but nothing that would affect yotties extremely low tech use of such materials (welding excluded).
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sailroom <span style="color:red">The place to auction your previously loved boatie bits</span>
DeeGee
Well-Known Member
[ QUOTE ]
Only use Monel rivets, most chandelers stock them, the riviting gun is standard, DYI or car repair stuff. If you are fixing Stainless Steel make sure it's A4, 316 (same as A4) and if you get the choice go for a low carbon version 316L, its less likely to break. Also remeber to put an insulator between the fitting and the mast, traditionally a Chromate paste, yellow stuff, but electrical insulating tape will also work.
Cheers, Ian
[/ QUOTE ]Completely agree, BUT...BUT...BUT... I have a load of rivets, some monel and some not. Has anyone any idea how to tell a monel from aluminium or steel ?
Only use Monel rivets, most chandelers stock them, the riviting gun is standard, DYI or car repair stuff. If you are fixing Stainless Steel make sure it's A4, 316 (same as A4) and if you get the choice go for a low carbon version 316L, its less likely to break. Also remeber to put an insulator between the fitting and the mast, traditionally a Chromate paste, yellow stuff, but electrical insulating tape will also work.
Cheers, Ian
[/ QUOTE ]Completely agree, BUT...BUT...BUT... I have a load of rivets, some monel and some not. Has anyone any idea how to tell a monel from aluminium or steel ?
2Tizwoz
Well-Known Member
Magnet detects steel, bearing in mind that the snap-off mandrel is pretty universally steel, and alloy is light and soft enough to scratch easily.
DeeGee
Well-Known Member
I wondered if a magnet would do the trick... will go have a look this afternoon. Ta. (No smiley for hats off).
VicS
Well-Known Member
[ QUOTE ]
There is a company in Eastbourne that sells them cheaper than the chandlers, but I can not for the life of me remember their name at the moment.
[/ QUOTE ] Sea Screw I imagine are the people you have in mind.
FWIW I did not do to well with the lazy tongs type of tool. You need to have the job securely supported and if you are not careful when the rivet snaps the tool, with a little bit of mandred projecting, skids off the rivet and scores the anodising. I would go for the long two handled type if I was doing anything again. (I used the lazy tongs type because I was able to borrow them from work!)
There is a company in Eastbourne that sells them cheaper than the chandlers, but I can not for the life of me remember their name at the moment.
[/ QUOTE ] Sea Screw I imagine are the people you have in mind.
FWIW I did not do to well with the lazy tongs type of tool. You need to have the job securely supported and if you are not careful when the rivet snaps the tool, with a little bit of mandred projecting, skids off the rivet and scores the anodising. I would go for the long two handled type if I was doing anything again. (I used the lazy tongs type because I was able to borrow them from work!)
