Rigging screws

oldbilbo

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I'll be looking to source some new ones; 10 x 7mm Fork/toggle/body. Existing toggles and studs still on boat... the old bits in a bucket 'somewhere beyond the rainbow'.

Thoughts on sourcing?
 
I'll be looking to source some new ones; 10 x 7mm Fork/toggle/body. Existing toggles and studs still on boat... the old bits in a bucket 'somewhere beyond the rainbow'.

Thoughts on sourcing?

Just be wary of low cost rigging screws. Made in China, poor thread form, tend to gall, rattling fit between the components. I bought some for my little Motor Sailor and went up a size but still not that great.
 
Just be wary of low cost rigging screws. Made in China, poor thread form, tend to gall, rattling fit between the components. I bought some for my little Motor Sailor and went up a size but still not that great.

I know what you mean but they're not that bad...

I put some M8 rigging screws on my late E-Boat which was wrecked in an overnight storm a few years ago.

Upon recovery of the remains in the morning the broken shrouds were very broken part way up the shrouds themselves: the rigging screws showed no signs of damage or loss of shine. When purchasing them from Stainlessdirect I'd spoken to the vendor who was adamant that each batch was proof tested ( >1tonne) so I should have confidence in his product.

No problems in what he sold me. I guess the (other) proof of the pudding will be when my current boat's rigging needs replacing in 3 years... :-)
 
The problem is them seizing. Not neccisarily breaking. stainless steel on stainless steel can seize under heavy load. You need bronze bodies, preferably not ammo / z-spars though.
 
The problem is them seizing. Not neccisarily breaking. stainless steel on stainless steel can seize under heavy load. You need bronze bodies, preferably not ammo / z-spars though.

My boat, which I have owned for 20 years, has stainless steel rigging screws. Most of them are 30 years old. One has galled in all that time, it was totally immovable and was replaced. All the others were adjusted last year with no problems. A little molybdenum disulphide grease on the threads is probably the best preventative method but copper grease may be nearly as good.
 
Lanoline is an effective prevention for stainless galling. Many handcreams contain it.
My boat is from the bronze age so I don't have a problem.

Liquid lubricants tend to be extruded from the minute spaces between threads, which allows asperities to contact, followed by galling. Many studies have concluded that solid lubricants are more effective in the long term, hence copper and MoS2. Shell used to make an anti-galling grease that was heavily loaded with MoS2, following an industry-wide research programme.
 
My boat, which I have owned for 20 years, has stainless steel rigging screws. Most of them are 30 years old. One has galled in all that time, it was totally immovable and was replaced. All the others were adjusted last year with no problems. A little molybdenum disulphide grease on the threads is probably the best preventative method but copper grease may be nearly as good.

There's the answer! A British company, too. Its products are available, I remember, from motor factors nearby AND my local garage certainly has some in daily use - so I'll take my shiny s/s rigging screws down there for a 'smear test'.

Sorted. Thanks again, guys.
 
My experience is based on the advice from our consultant metallurgist when fixing 20mm holding down bolts in a water filter base. Approx 2000 fixings. There were galling problems initially but none after application of the hand cream. Mind you I haven't been back to check if they are still free!
[quoted=vyv_cox;5180037]Liquid lubricants tend to be extruded from the minute spaces between threads, which allows asperities to contact, followed by galling. Many studies have concluded that solid lubricants are more effective in the long term, hence copper and MoS2. Shell used to make an anti-galling grease that was heavily loaded with MoS2, following an industry-wide research programme.[/QUOTE]
 
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