Rigging screws

William_H

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I have 4 of these RF508 Ronstan rigging screws on shrouds of a light 21fter. They are 32 years old and the left hand thread locking nuts have stripped. My question is should I replace the rigging screws of chrome plated bronze with SS screws or should I try to source replacement locking nuts.
I firmly believe in replacing rigging wire but what about the rigging screws. Has any one heard of these suddenly failing? I have always greased them so they seem quite tight ie thread not worn. Any suggestions? olewill Don't be alarmed by the scraps of wire previously used to lock them,

http://www.ybw.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=19229&stc=1&d=1340587709
 
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Hi Olewill,

32 years ? I thought you were Australian not Scottish ! ( me half Scot ).

I think they've done their job now and may be considered stressed / work hardened; the trend here seems to be open body bottlescrews, though I must say the split pins required are a pain - literally - for ankles and sails even with tape, and if my girlfriend ever catches herself on one, you'll be able to hear it from your mooring without using Skype !

Andy
 
the split pins required are a pain - literally - for ankles and sails even with tape, and if my girlfriend ever catches herself on one, you'll be able to hear it from your mooring without using Skype !

If you pass the pins so that the jaggy ends are outside, you should at least be able to avoid lacerating the missus. Possibly you might catch a sail, but I'd have thought that in most cases the bottom of a jib would be well above the rigging screws.

Pete
 
If you pass the pins so that the jaggy ends are outside, you should at least be able to avoid lacerating the missus. Possibly you might catch a sail, but I'd have thought that in most cases the bottom of a jib would be well above the rigging screws.

Pete

Pete,

the 135% overlap genoa might get a bit close; it's OK if one puts a lot of tape around the pin ends, and I do know how to do split pins, still in this use it seems a bit crude to me, in many ways I prefer the now unfashionable closed body screws with lock nuts.

Ken,
Not too sure monel wire has that much strength in shear, to secure a rigging screw ?
 
P
Ken,
Not too sure monel wire has that much strength in shear, to secure a rigging screw ?

Possibly not, however if the rigging screw has been done up correctly, by turning the body of the screw and taking care not to induce torsion in the wire, the unscrewing force, so to speak, will be pretty small. I also think of them as tell-tales, not so much there to stop the screw unwinding as to provide an easy way of seeing whether that's happening.
 
Possibly not, however if the rigging screw has been done up correctly, by turning the body of the screw and taking care not to induce torsion in the wire, the unscrewing force, so to speak, will be pretty small. I also think of them as tell-tales, not so much there to stop the screw unwinding as to provide an easy way of seeing whether that's happening.

Ken,

fair enough but I'd sooner be b****y sure it wasn't going to happen !
 
Ken,

fair enough but I'd sooner be b****y sure it wasn't going to happen !

Must admit I have seen to many bottle screws that can turn regardless off split pins I only use seizing wire.

YOu can see if it has turned, with split pins you are never certain.

What happened to the open bottle screws with little screws in the end of them to stop them turning? I always liked them...
 
Hi Olewill,

I must say the split pins required are a pain - literally - for ankles and sails even with tape, and if my girlfriend ever catches herself on one, you'll be able to hear it from your mooring without using Skype !

Andy

I have a length of plastic drain pipe over each of my bottle screws which avoids contact with sharp bits, is quicker than taping, and lets air circulate.
 
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